Blade for cutting MFC?

[Chems]

I have a job coming up thats straight forward but its a whole lot of cross cutting. I want to use my SIP 10" table saw, with a specialized blade will I get a good result? Any blade recommendations?

 

[cutting solutions]

Do you have a scoring saw unit on the machine?
if not you will struggle to keep the underside of the cut with a clean sharp edge.
You could put a "dummy" piece of timber underneath to improve the finish.
there are blades available for cutting without scoring unit.

 

[Karl]

Hi James

I wouldn't get too stresed about having the "correct" blade. Here's my set-up for crosscutting panels - works really well with veneered MDF and MFC. The blade is a 12" rip blade.

Zero clearence crosscut sled

Line the cut mark with the edge of the sled. Face side up.

The results (I really do need a decent camera!)

Face side

Back side

I know it's a little difficult to see the quality of the finish from those pics but trust me - it is excellent. Very very minor chipping on the back side. As good as i've seen from manufacturers of MFC cabinets.

The other point is that you only need to worry about the quality of cut where both sides are exposed (shelves etc). In a normal carcass you only need one side on each panel (sometimes not even that - only the top and bottom if carcasses are to be butted upto each other or have end panels).

HTH.

Cheers

Karl

 

[Doctor]

I know it's a little difficult to see the quality of the finish from those pics but trust me - it is excellent. Very very minor chipping on the back side. As good as i've seen from manufacturers of MFC cabinets.

Karl

Where do you get your carcases from Karl, no way should there even be minor chips from a wholesale supplier. :shock:

 

[Max Power]

My thoughts too Bob. Your results although good for the equipment your using are not as good as I would expect from specialist machinery Karl

 

[Karl]

Perhaps I should go and edit my post - what I meant to say is that i've seen worse from MFC suppliers (high st kitchens, local cabinet suppliers etc). Not all are worse, but some aren't any better. If that makes sense.

Cheers

Karl

 

[BTR]

I have recently made some fitted wardrobes from mf mdf and used a cmt fine thooth blade in my table saw and got excellent results no chipping was even suprised my self

 

[Chems]

Thanks for all, CMT sounds good, not worried about cost just want a really good blade for the job.

Can fit a zero clearance insert for the blade. Does masking the edge help?

I recently cut a type of MFC now I recall on my saw, and I got zero chip out, but I used masking tape and I'm not sure what type it was as it was just a sizing job for a builder installing a kitchen to get him out of a hole.

This one looks like the buisness?:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/cmt-cmt-200m ... rc=froogle

 

[lemonjeff]

This lot was cut 2mm oversize on each edge

Using this


I started a thread here http://www.woodworkuk.co.uk/forum/viewt ... 741#p37741
and I did try every tip except buy a T55 :twisted: or a T/S with scoring blade.
Without a scoring blade the very expensive triple chip blade I bought give perfect edges for a short while, so I save that for edges on long panels using the sliding table.
I think I got approx 40m of perfect edges per disposable blade.

Chems keep saying the mantra "I want a T55"

 

[Chems]

Thats ingenious! I don't mind about the expensive blade, will be lost in the cost of the job. I would like a TS55 but I don't need one, there are plenty of other festools I do need!

 

[monkeybiter]

I don't know if I dare venture a suggestion in the face of so much experience, but the best non-routed edges I've cut in MFC, I lowered the TS blade to just over half the thickness of the material and carefully cut from both sides. It obviously takes twice as long and a bit more care to make sure everything lines up, but it gave a decent edge, and I'm using a cheap TS and blades.

 

[tom owens]

I recently put a post on the genral chat section titled company website. On there there is a desk i made from oak veneered mdf all cut using a makita 5704rk rip saw with a standard blade and a straight edge.
The straight was made from 18mm and 9mm mdf. I cut a rip of 9mm at 200mm and a rip of the 18mm at 80mm then screwed the 18mm down the center of the 9mm mdf.
The 18mm was used as the guide for the saw which sat on the 9mm.
On the first cut i cut through the 9mm mdf as well as the veneered stuff so every cut the blade was just skimming the 9mm.
Because the guide was clamped down tight there was no tear out or chipping at all even on white carcasses. I use this method 90% of the time now when i cant use my table saw.

 

[awkwood]

This works very well in my saw
http://www.axminster.co.uk/cmt-cmt-300m ... rod829456/
If you can find a supplier Leuco do some very good industrial quality blades too

 

[misterfish]

I use a sled along the lines of Karl's and find it works well as the lower surface is protected and supported right up to the cutting tips of the blade.

I've tried a fine 'veneer' type blade which wasn't as good as I had hoped. Also a zero clearance insert (that I use as standard) does not give a good support unless I make a new insert for the job in question.

The biggest problem is doing long cuts against the fence - the onlyway I have succeeded with this is to stack the required piece on a lower scrificial piece to cut the exposed edge.

Misterfish

 

[cutting solutions]

who am I to comment?

i only sell thousands of blades a year

I cannot believe you guys suggesting a rip blade.

using a TS with a scoring unit you should use an 80 tooth triple chip blade £38.00 (same quality as the leuco ones mentioned)
without the scoring unit you have two choices:
Hollow ground (usually suited to a wall saw) the face of the teeth are hollowed out in the manufacturing process. £39.00
or severe alternate bevel £38.50.
and not very expensive compared to what else is on offer.
all top quality German blades. that will give a very clean edge on MFC or veneered material.
+ carriage + VAT


and you could also apply tape to the underside.


Karl
If thats the best finish you get I would seriously try a better blade. the chipping on the third pic is dreadful.

 

[Max Power]

Great advice. CS knows what he's talking about and he sells really good gear 8)

 

[Chems]

I may just have to hit CS up for a blade then, thats a significant saving over the CMT ones.

Whats the delivery time like?

 

[cutting solutions]

Thank you Mr Jones



Chems
Depends which one you want to go for.

250 x 30 Z=80 triple chip Ex-stock.
250 x 30 Z=48 Hollow ground. ex-stock
250x 30 Z=80 Severe alt bevel 2 weeks
Doug

 

[Chems]

Have to be the triple chip seen as you have that one in stock. Also it has more teeth than the CMT model so should get an even better finish.

 

[cutting solutions]

Either pm or e-mail your details and I shall get blade sent.

it was 250 mm diameter with 30 mm bore?