better way to oil chopping boards

[mickthetree]

I've made a few bits for a local craft fair this weekend including some chopping boards. Approx 250 x 150 x 30 and with a 25mm hole in the top corner for hanging them.

Oiled with Osmo top oil which is creating a really nice food safe finish, but its been such a PITA to finish them. The instructions suggest applying the oil with a cloth then leaving 8-10 hours to dry, but I'm basically covering it in oil so its impossible to hold. I've tried hanging them / doing one side at a time / using a brush / putting them on tiny stands to minimise contact, but each has its downsides and none are really practical and its taken an awful lot of time to do something that isn't going to be sold for much money. I also tried applying the coats , leaving for 10 minutes then wiping excess off with another cloth but with this finish it would take far too many coats.

Any suggestions on better ways to do what should be such a simple part of the process?

 

[mickthetree]

I did wonder about the possibility of soaking the boards overnight in a tub of Danish oil or similar....

 

[marcros]

commercially, I think that they tend to dip them briefly and hang them up to drain.

 

[david123]

You could use inverted drawing pins to dry them on, then you would just a few small pin pricks to deal with. Not sure if that helps, but unless you can sit them on a column of air they will need to make contact somewhere.

 

[Zeddedhed]

I would give the backs a quick oiling first - brush on and then wipe off and buff after 15mins.
Then affix 4 self adhesive rubber dots - the sort you have left over from Kitchen fitting (For cushioning the doors when closing)
Turn the board over and it will sit clear of a surface and then oil the top and edges to your hearts content.

 

[beganasatree]

Hi Mickthetree,
I use Danish oil on mine,I wipe it on leave it for 15 mins then wipe of the excess.That way I can apply 3 coats in the same day,one in the morning one mid afternoon and one before bed.I also denib with 0000 steelwool after the first and second coats.

Peter

 

[Sheffield Tony]

I made five beechwood chopping boards last year (a couple of them seen here) I have them a few wipes over with Chestnut food safe oil, which is non drying. It is liquid paraffin, I think. Looks a lot warmer than the bare wood (although that's not a bad option). It soaked in pretty quickly.

 

[mickthetree]

thanks for all the suggestions.
Tony / Peter did you stand the boards on something whilst they dried? or do alternate sides?

 

[Sheffield Tony]

I didn't apply so much they were likely to drip, but I did want to avoid oil soaking into anything I put them on. With a non-drying oil, there isn't the worry about messing up the finish where it contacts something, so I stood them on battens of scrap wood in the workshop, then laid them out on a sheet of polythene for a few days to let the finish really soak in before putting them on any surface that mattered. A quick buff up before wraping for Christmas, and there didn't look to be any oil stains on the paper by Christmas day.

 

[mickthetree]

with the osmo, I tried battens, but anywhere the boards touched something they pooled up. I was applying small thin coats so maybe its not a non-drying oil. I'll certainly give that chestnut a go.

 

[beganasatree]

Hi Mick,
I have metal handles on mine and hang them up by the handle.Wilko danish oil.

 

[woodpig]

We bought a 21" x 18" Beech chopping board from IKEA several years back that didn't have any finish on it at all. It often gets washed down with very hot soapy water and is fine, what's the idea of oiling?

 

[Harbo]

Sycamore or Beech - no need to oil as all they need is a good scrub in soapy water to clean.

Rod

 

[DennisCA]

User mtmwood on youtube (makes some seriously impressive cutting boards), dips them whole in a mineral oil bath. I am not sure how long he leaves it and sometimes he uses wax+oil combo afterwards too,

 

[andersonec]

User mtmwood on youtube (makes some seriously impressive cutting boards), dips them whole in a mineral oil bath. I am not sure how long he leaves it and sometimes he uses wax+oil combo afterwards too,

Watched the same guy, he makes them for a living and has made thousands so he should know what he's talking about, you can download his tutorial which goes into moisture content, crushing strengths hardness etc.

He soaks his boards in Mineral oil for 10 - 15 seconds, lets them dry for 5 - 6 hours and repeats, he then gives them a light rub with a mix of Mineral oil and Bees wax (4 to 1) heated to melt the beeswax. The reason he uses this method is because the oil and wax seals the wood to prevent ingress of water and other stuff it keeps the board looking good and is totally food safe, he does not use finishing oils or varnishes because when they get hard it defeats the object of an end grain board and blunts your blade (if it is sharp that is) Cooking oils like Olive oil, sunflower oil etc. should not be used as they go bad over time.

Well worth a look at some of his boards on youtube, specially the Union Jack.

One other thing, he uses Titebond 111 because of it's waterproof, chemical resistant properties, it's long open time because it doesn't damage his planer blades, I presume the equivalent here would be D4 PVA.

Andy

 

[kfenelon]

The product to use is clear mineral oil you can purchase this on line of from IKEA Butchers use this for treating the cutting blocks
Ken

 

[BearTricks]

I use walnut oil. £1.50 a bottle from Asda and smells delicious.

It does tend to make the wood darker in the same manner as some other oils though. And you need to be careful about giving them away because of potential allergies. Dries in two days.

I also have a safflower oil and beeswax mix that is better for allergy sufferers. I'm not sure if I like the finish as much however.

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