Best solution for glazed door - glass mounting

[Wouldchuk]

Folks,

I'm making a simple noticeboard, with two glazed doors. The doors will be standard mortis and tenons, but I was wondering how best to fit the glass.

While i could use the coping and sticking set to create a groove, which normally could take a wooden panel, and then mount the glass in that - I am worried that if the glass gets broken it's hard to replace.

At only 30mm thick, the door frame won't really have the thickness for a large securing bead.

Any other solutions / suggestions much appreciated.

 

[PAC1]

The frame should have a rebate say 15 by 10mm with a moulded bead on the outside, 3 or 4mm glass and then 6mm quadrant bead on the inside tacked in place without breaking the glass.

 

[AndyT]

Like PAC1 said. For outside use, I'd use some decent clear silicone sealant (Dow Corning 781 or equivalent) between the glass and the wood. It should stop it rattling and prevent any water running down the glass to rot the wood.

 

[Wouldchuk]

That sounds simple enough. Thanks.

I can cut the interior rebate for the glass on the router table on the rails and stiles, prior to assembly.

As for the external bead, I think I need to experiment on some scrap as to whether I want an all-round, continuous bead moulding on the external face, or a stopped-chamfer style moulding.

If I go with the former - the all-round, is it easier to get a nice accurate continuous moulding by routing once the frame is assembled, using an overhead router, plunging with a bearing guided profile bit using the inside of the door frame as the reference edge?

I'm thinking that if use the router table and do it before the frame assembly, it's going to be hard to stop that moulding absolutely accurately.

With the stopped chamfer approach, that's easy enough to do on the router table before doorframe assembly.

Hope to get this started next week.

 

[mikefab]

You could mitre to the depth of the moulding at the T&M joint like on these sliding sashes I am making. The rebate needs to be exactly the same depth as the moulding.

Here is one joint pulled apart a bit:

And here is the rail with tenon:

Running the router round after assembly will result in rounding at the corners.

 

[Wouldchuk]

Thanks Mike - that's a neat way of doing it, looks good. Sorry not quite sure what you mean re. the rebate being exactly the same depth as the moulding?

 

[mikefab]

Thanks Mike - that's a neat way of doing it, looks good. Sorry not quite sure what you mean re. the rebate being exactly the same depth as the moulding?

The bottom of the rebate is level with the bottom of the moulding. The mitre therefore forms a neat corner with the edge of both elements. So cut the moulding first, then make a rebate on the other side to the same depth, then do the mitres and the joints.

Hopefully this end-on photo will help.

 

[mikefab]

Mitre cut before cutting away waste moulding with coping saw and cleaning up with a chisel.

Then put the mortice in and do the tenons with one mitred shoulder.

Mike

 

[Wouldchuk]

Ah yes - that's most helpful thanks Mike

 

[tomf]

I would just stick it all together then run a rabbit bit around the inside of the frame to create your recess, I would not bother with any fancy molding on the inside and just stick your beading on the outside.