Best material / wood to use - fitted bookcase

[SteveLuck]

Hi,

I would like to make something similar to this fitted bookshelf and need to decide on what material to use. Obvious choice that springs to mind is MDF however I really don't like working with it. It will be painted once finished.

Any suggestions for material other than MDF welcome.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

If it's to be painted, how about Redwood? Unsorted grade would be good if you can track some down - fewer knots to 'ghost' through the paint or throw resin deposits. If you'd prefer a hardwood, I gather that Poplar (sometimes sold as Tulipwood I think) is nice to work but not always very attractive in colour, so ideal for painted work. It's not expensive as hardwoods go, either. Decent ply with hardwood lippings would serve, too.

 

[marcus]

Agree tulip wood would be an excellent choice. Plywood and lippings would be OK, but would be more work with having to apply the lippings for no real gain.

 

[SteveLuck]

Thanks Cheshire Chappie and Marcus, I remember seeing Norm (New Yankee Workshop) make some painted furniture from Poplar and he raved about how easy it was to work with.

I have a timber yard just round the corner that have lots of redwood; I'm guessing this will be cheaper than Poplar? Aside from cost would you use Poplar above Unsorted?

 

[marcus]

Poplar really is very cheap for a hardwood so worth getting a quote as it is longer lasting than redwood, and is usually knot free so finishes more easily, and is generally nicer to work with, Norm is right! Unsorted should be fine, as the appearance doesn't matter at all. Just as well, as it is very ugly before it's painted.

 

[Mar_mite]

I think mdf is the ideal material for that project. Its absolutely stable, and you won't have to worry about movement once it's painted. Id bet my house that the unit in the photo is made from mdf.

 

[blackrodd]

I think mdf is the ideal material for that project. Its absolutely stable, and you won't have to worry about movement once it's painted. Id bet my house that the unit in the photo is made from mdf.

moisture resistant mdf, is the only way to go! It's stable and easy to cut and machine.
I have made quite a bit mdf furniture for a school cupboards, benches, desks, in the past. I cut mine up outside, and with the extractor on!
Regards Rodders

 

[charvercarver]

Poplar really is very cheap for a hardwood so worth getting a quote as it is longer lasting than redwood, and is usually knot free so finishes more easily, and is generally nicer to work with, Norm is right! Unsorted should be fine, as the appearance doesn't matter at all. Just as well, as it is very ugly before it's painted.

Tulipwood does work like a dream, but I'd say it is far from ugly. The grain is quite beautiful in my opinion:

 

[mailee]

I would also go for MRMDF. Very stable for a centrally heated home, easy to work and finish and no worries of anything bleeding through. JMHO. :wink:

 

[Shrubby]

I would use MRMDF. If you get it from a merchant with a panel saw they can cut to your list for a small cost
Matt

 

[petermillard]

No contest - MR MDF all the way.

 

[ColeyS1]

Tulipwood also id be concerned about mdf going saggy over time.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

 

[Jacob]

MDF slowly sags. Redwood best value for strength, lightness, cost. IMO. You could use mdf for the partitions perhaps (no bending) and redwood (or any wood) for the shelves?