Best hinges for face frame cupboards advice please

[Woody Alan]

Hi All

I about to embark on what seems to be my biggest challenge, to build some cupboards across the end of a room. I intend to carcass from 18mm ply and face frame with oak. Panel doors with oak frame and 6mm veneered MDF panel. All doors will be about 20 inches wide, lower ones about 30 inches high and upper about 40-48 inches.
I need to know what the best sort of hinge to use would be, I tried finding 60mm by 15mm brass to fit in the traditional way but no luck. Is there a better alternative? The doors will be fitted within the face frame, not on it as in kitchens, is it possible to use a kitchen type hinge still though?
Several questions I know, also for your suggested type how many per door?

Thanks Alan

 

[jasonB]

You can use kitchen type hinges with the correct mounting plate. By using either full overlay, overlap or inset hinges you can adjust for carcase thickness and faceframe width.

Did this vanity unit that way

The other alternative is to mount inset blums on packer blocks that match your faceframe overhang.

Jason

 

[Woody Alan]

By using either full overlay, overlap or inset hinges you can adjust for carcase thickness and faceframe width.

Thanks Jason, I think the kitchen hinge is the way to go then giving me adjustability, could you bear with me and explain the differences between full overlay, overlap or inset hinges. I can't seem to easily locate with so many different types available.

The other alternative is to mount inset blums on packer blocks that match your faceframe overhang

I think this is the way to go (when I identify exactly which is the inset one)for simplicity and cost, I have the time to make packers to bring the mount flush with the face frame edge, so it's just a question of deciding exactly which hinges are most suitable some 90/ degree for the outer doors and 170 degree for the doors in the middle of the "unit" your guidance appreciated Jason. I have to be honest, I get overwhelmed with so many choices.

Alan

 

[jasonB]

Most concealed hinges are designed for 18mm carcases therefore the usual full overlay will allow the door to cover the full 18mm of carcase edge (though a little is usually allowed for clearance). If you have two doors both hinged from one carcase member then an overlap or dual hinge will allow 9mm of each door to overhang the carcase. "Inset" hinges have no overhang as they fit inside the carcase.

Now if you use the +18mm mounting plate I linked to above with the an overlap hinge you will get the edge of the door 9mm inside the carcase so the faceframe can overhang by 9mm and if used with an inset you will get the door 18mm insede the carcase.

So assuming you are using 38mm faceframes and 18mm carcases the hinges at the edges will need to be set over by 18mm and any that are on dividing members will need 9mm.

For mounting on blocks you just need a standard inset hinge with 0mm height mounting plate, the block should be flush with the faceframe ( a full length strip looks better) and the hinge holes are set back 37mm plus the door thickness. The module (non clip) hinges are a little cheaper as are the non cam adjust plates)

Insets don't come with wide opening you will have to use 170 degree overlays with blocks that are 18mm deeper than the faceframe. or the +18mm plates mounted level with the faceframe

Jason

 

[Woody Alan]

Thanks Jason for your very detailed reply. I have learnt several new things today. I have fitted kitchen type hinges before but only on a refit of a seconhand kitchen that came my way, all the parts I used came with the installation.
I think I will be using both your prescribed methods as I find trying to get into cupboards that only open 90 degrees very annoying, my current wardrobes are driving me nuts because of this, it's impossible to see inside properly.

This project has all the wood parts, design almost there but lacking confidence not having built anything of this size freestyle before, hardware now sorted, just some time required. I have 10 metres of featherboard fence to put up first I will post pictures of the project when I can.

Thanks again Alan

 

[johnnyb]

my preference for these jobs is definitely ball bearing type normal hinges. they are cheapish and look superb. i set them fully into the door with no inset on the face frame. thet arent adjustable in the way kitchen types are.

 

[Woody Alan]

John

Could you expand upon your source and the size of hinge that you use. I must admit the adjustability of the kitchen type is appealing and not having to cut into the door on show. However the type you refer to could be useful for some workshop cupboards coming up.

Alan

 

[johnnyb]

i will try and describe them. they are hinges of the bog standard type with two leaves and a knuckle. the knuckle contains two ball bearings. they come in at least two sizes (100mm and 75mm) they are steel but are beautifully and accurately made they are also available in electro brass (not the b anq rubbish). 75mm are the hinges to use for cupboards. i pay about £3.75 a pair. does this help? they are fitted so both leaves are let into the door.

 

[johnnyb]

i get them from a decent quality locksmith suppliers. i also visit a posh shop that sells hardware hinges, some of the character iron hinges(indian ort chinese) are £20 plus per hinge!!! i will try to post a piccy

 

[jasonB]

Thats going to be a hefty faceframe to take 100mm butts :? , I would have thought 60mm narrow pattern hinges would be the max without looking too chunky.

BTW I get my stainless ballbearing hinges (for internal doors) here

Jason

 

[JFC]

Bearing knuckled butts look too big on normal doors :shock:
What's with all this only cutting the hinge in on one side eh ? Smallbone do that and it looks crap and is lazy ! Starting at 20k i think i would have a few words to say if they didn't fit my hinges properly .