Best British wood for a beginner?

[t8hants]

I have an acquaintance who is a tree surgeon, and runs a log fuel business, but he is also able to plank timber as well.

What would be the best timber for me as complete beginner to ask for, which I can then store to dry out.

My cunning plan would be to use the next couple of years practicing on common deal while the more interesting timber is drying in the covered store I have available. I can easily handle planks 6' - 8' in length.

Gareth

 

[Mike.C]

Hi Gareth,

In my opinion if you are going to be practising over the next couple of years while your interesting timber are drying (which if you are air drying takes about an inch a year) then you will no longer be a beginner, and so any of the British Hardwoods will suffice.

Obviously some timbers are better then others, but that is a more personal choice.

HTH

Cheers

Mike

 

[9fingers]

Ash, Oak, Sycamore, Beech, Birch and Walnut will be a good selection to squirrel away and give you a range of colours to work with.

HTH

Bob

 

[t8hants]

Mike, thanks for the vote of confidence that I will be up to a reasonable standard by then.

I will see what my friend has available, and I am sure he will give sound advice on what he has in stock, and what I can afford.

G

 

[John. B]

Don't forget Cherry

John. B

 

[9fingers]

Don't forget Cherry

John. B

True! but it can have evil twisted grain which might be deemed good for the soul of a beginner but frustrating nevertheless!

Bob

 

[Scrums]

I'd stay away from Sycamore - unless you can get it in the spring, freshly felled and planked while the sap's down, otherwise you'll end up with what's known as 'weathered Sycamore'....dirty stained stuff good for nothing !

My choice would be for Oak - every time.

Chris.

 

[custard]

There's no such thing as the perfect wood, although Cuban Mahogany came pretty close, which is why it's now all gone!

As far as British hardwoods are concerned, and as an antidote to the more misty eyed views that you'll no doubt hear,

Oak, the tannin stains your hands and tools, and can corrode metal fastenings which will then stain the wood around the fastening. The open grain can make for some finishing challenges depending upon the application.

Ash, open grain again, tends to warp. Like oak it can split easily if you don't take the proper precautions.

Cherry (also other fruitwoods), warps like crazy when drying, small sections only.

Beech, hard to work, bland, prone to movements.

Yew, very difficult to find decent sized planks that don't have bark inclusions, shakes, or other defects.

Elm, difficult to find.

Walnut, breathtakingly expensive.

Sycamore, often bland, figured wood expensive.

By the way, pine brings its own challenges. The difference in hardness between the growth rings is extreme, which means it's very difficult to sand smooth. You'll also need ultra sharp tools to cut it cleanly, and tool sharpness is something that comes with experience.

Aiming off for all of that I'd suggest American Cherry would be a good choice to learn with, on some modest sized projects, while you're waiting for your own timber to dry.

 

[Ironballs]

You miserable git! Though lots of truth in there. I'd agree that US cherry is a good wood to practice on as a softer hardwood, with the added bonus that it usually looks stunning too.

I've got a few largish sections of English cherry that I'm not sure I'll ever use, even assuming it's done all of it's moving by now it is such a swine to plane that it can ruin a piece in one swipe of the blade.

 

[Harbo]

It also depends on what you are going to make and what wood (when you've finished it) you like?

Different woods suit different purposes.

I would buy as much as you can afford of whatever he's got - it will come in useful one day if you are still into the hobby?

You will need a lot of patience though - wood takes years to dry out!

Rod