Bent drill spindle

[Picalilli]

Anyone had much luck or can advise on the best approach to straighten a bent drill press spindle?

I got an Axminster AT2001DP second hand but the run out is quite bad. It’s had new bearings, belts and I’ve checked the chuck. The spindle actually seems to have a slight bend in it when I set a square against the end so this must be the problem.

Is the best approach to put in a vice and gently hammer or is there a better way? I don’t want to make it worse, as it is it’s sort of fine for woodwork but the runout is quite bad.

Axminster don’t stock replacement spindles for this model unfortunately. Does anyone know whether spindles tend to be quite interchangeable? This site I found sells a fair range of spares for sealey drills that look similar…
https://www.ccw-tools.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=80242&strReferer=search&PPGR=0

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

Hi,
Are you a 100% sure its the spindle.
Bear in mind that its the chuck driving face that needs to run true (the morse taper if this drill has one) Can you put a dpi on the morse taper face or try a different chuck?

 

[Picalilli]

Hi, you can still see the run out when the drill is running with the chuck removed. I will try to post a video if I can later on when I get in there.

 

[Spectric]

to straighten a bent drill press spindle

That must be a flimsy drill press, but I would be looking for other problems first because it does seem unlikely and as has been said have you checked it with no chuck.

 

[Duncan A]

Ask Sealey if they can send you the dimensions of their spare spindle. If it seems to be the same as yours, it's worth risking a few pounds.
Duncan

 

[Picalilli]

Hopefully this video shows the issue. You can see it sort of knocking the handle too as it’s spinning? All I can think is that it’s the spindle or quill?

 

[Sideways]

That's atrocious.
At least some of the movement is due to slop between the head and the quill.

 

[Picalilli]

That's atrocious.
At least some of the movement is due to slop between the head and the quill.

yeah, it's very annoying. It actually still drills fairly accurate holes for the purpose of general woodwork, but obviously I'd like it to be true should I ever want more accuracy.

I just wondered if correcting the bend (if that's what the cause is) is doable.

 

[ChaiLatte]

As has been said, you need first to identify if there is any slack between outer quill and the main casting. If there is, tighten this up.

Then remove the spindle from the quill, remove the bearings, put it on some vee-blocks (you can make some by cutting a vee in a piece of wood and inserting two overlapping Stanley blades) and test for run out. Put something at the end of the spindle so there is no longitudinal movement while testing. A dial indicator is best, but any stationary object held close to the spindle while you rotate it with a bright light behind it will tell you a lot.

If you have a lathe, set the drilling machine spindle up between centres and test in a similar way.

If it is bent, hammering it is not a good way to straighten. It needs to be controlled. A press is good. Squeezing in a vise between three blocks (one at the high point, the others as far away as the width of the vise allows) is possible. Put a little pressure on it and note the position of hte vise handle. Test again on the vee blocks. Repeat giving the vise handle another 1/8 of a turn. Go slowly and gently.

 

[Distinterior]

I’m struggling to envisage how a drill spindle could have got “bent”…???
I’m more inclined to think it’s just excessive play between the spindle & quill or between the quill and casting itself…..

 

[Picalilli]

If there is, tighten this up.

Thanks for the detailed response. If there is any slack, how do I go about ‘tightening it up’?
I can’t really get in there and get it apart until next weekend now as I’ve just painted the floor and the whole place is upside down, but will try to get the spindle out again then and post some photos.

I do have a lathe and was thinking of somehow mounting it in there to see how it looks.

Excuse my ignorance, but how do I remove the spindle from the quill and bearings? Does it just tap out? I’ve never owned a drill press before so not had to do any of this. I only know the bearings are new because the previous owner said he’d changed them in an attempt to deal with the run out.

 

[ChaiLatte]

If there is any slack, how do I go about ‘tightening it up’?

...how do I remove the spindle from the quill and bearings?

Maybe I should have said 'see if it is possible to tighten it up'. The manual for the machine is online and contains an exploded parts diagram.

On better quality machines, the main casting is split, with a clamping bolt so you can adjust the clearance on the quill. It does not look as if your machine was made with this feature however.

Refer to manual for disassembly. Look at every item in the diagram and work out what it does and what and how it is joined to the other parts. See: AXMINSTER TRADE AT2001DP USER MANUAL Pdf Download

First remove all tension from the quill return spring. Then gently wind quill out of the bottom. You may need to undo the locknut and grub screw that slide in the keyway in the quill.

Before you disassemble any further, test for run out again. Testing at this stage removes any influence or interaction between the drive pulley and splined part of the spindle.

To disassemble further, undo bearing retainer nut at top of spindle. Check manual to make sure there is not a circlip or threaded ring retaining the lower bearing. Gently press out spindle. The lower bearing usually stays on the spindle (the fit between its ID and the spindle is tighter than that between its OD and the quill). If, as you say, the bearings have been changed, look closely at every part of the machine and you can make some assessment of the quality of previous work. Check that the bearings are the correct ones and feel smooth if you spin them.

 

[Picalilli]

Thanks for your detailed response and help - and thanks for linking the manual. As I say, it'll be next weekend before I can get in there and get anything done I expect.

 

[sawtooth-9]

Any machine ( almost ) can be repaired.
Question is whether it is worth the effort / cost.
But first, you must diagnose the problem.
If it is a bent spindle, the machine has either been badly designed, or totally abused !
If the spindle is bent, and you have a lathe, you can turn down the spindle and machine up a sleeve - problem solved.
Like I said, diagnose the problem and then you can work the solution.

 

[Picalilli]

I’ve no idea whether it’s been damaged by a previous owner or was a manufacturing defect that the previous owner just somehow failed to notice. I guess the former.

Don’t have a metal lathe unfortunately (even if I did I wouldn’t know how to use it!). The guy I got it from said he’d queried getting an engineering company to make a new spindle and they quoted £200. The drills are around £350-£450 new so it wouldn’t really be worth it. I suppose I could shop around on that price, but as I say, my other thought was whether or not a replacement spindle from sealey would work. They seem to be the only ones I can find where I can buy a replacement spindle.

Still keeping my fingers crossed that it’s some other fault that will become clear once I take it apart, but already had it down to the spindle and quill assembly and nothing obvious.

 

[smugdruggler]

I’ve no idea whether it’s been damaged by a previous owner or was a manufacturing defect that the previous owner just somehow failed to notice. I guess the former.

Don’t have a metal lathe unfortunately (even if I did I wouldn’t know how to use it!). The guy I got it from said he’d queried getting an engineering company to make a new spindle and they quoted £200. The drills are around £350-£450 new so it wouldn’t really be worth it. I suppose I could shop around on that price, but as I say, my other thought was whether or not a replacement spindle from sealey would work. They seem to be the only ones I can find where I can buy a replacement spindle.

Still keeping my fingers crossed that it’s some other fault that will become clear once I take it apart, but already had it down to the spindle and quill assembly and nothing obvious.

I don't think it is bent, my guess would be that it was not machined correctly in the first place but until you take it apart and check the centres etc.....

 

[Fergie 307]

If you do find its bent then the easiest way to straighten it is to find someone with a press, or hydraulic pipe bender. If you have a local engineering shop they may be able to do it for you. If its play between the casting and the quill, and there is no provision for adjustment, then to be honest I would look for another drill.

 

[Ttrees]

I've not got an Axi drill,but a similar deal.
I have noticed fair bit of runout, but no shaking/knocking of the machine.
Thanks for making the video, it is very interesting, I'll be looking closer for those things now .
Not sure if you've seen these videos, should you not have, might be worth a look
two youtubers have made vids on these, this is from one youtubers videos,
it may have tips on what/what not to do, regarding spindle removal.




You're video has sure made me bit nervous about doing this down the road.

Can't remember if it were above video, but I do recall one resto where someone bought Sealey replacements for their broken hub for handle, it were different looking whole assembly (he bought the whole pinnion type gear part too, and not just that
collar/boss)

But those parts aren't fundamental, to fit bearings and whatnot, and handle design has changed to your style since, so that could be why.

Back to your machine
Guessing there is little play of the quill and the housing,
and it wasn't being bent because of the depth stop or something, i.e does the noise go away with it removed or sideways force is applied.

I guess that would take a lot, as I made a gib sorta thing for my machine which is likely pressing from one side a bit more than the wee grub screws.

Another thing is whether the pulley is sound, as these look to be made of magnesium like material which can take a shape, crack and generally a bit pants
Good luck
Tom

 

[Picalilli]

Okay, so I’ve squeezed my way in around the non painted parts of the floor and took the spindle and quill back out. Nothing obvious wrong with the spindle but guess it’s hard to know without getting it on v blocks as chailatte said.

I tried switching the drill on with the spindle and handle removed though and had a look up at the bearing below the pulley setup, which looks like it may have a slight elliptical rotation to it? Hard to say for sure because it’s so far inside the still and may just be grease on the bearing causing an illusion, but wondering if this might be the cause of the problem?

Maybe take the pulley assembly off next and see if the problem is the bearing there…

 

[Fergie 307]

I couldn't get your initial video to work until now. Looks to me like you have a huge amount of movement between the quill and the casting. The movement of the handle tends to confirm that. That would be the first thing I would check. If the clearance is correct then there should be no discernable play between the two. Just put the quill into the casting and see if there is play between the two. If there is then ideally you want to measure the bore with an internal micrometer at either end, and in the middle. You are looking to establish firstly the diameter, and secondly if it is round or oval. So take measurements between 12 and 6, and again at 3 and 9 o'clock. You probably don't have an internal mic, in which case a caliper will do, although you will only be able to take measurements at either end. Repeat the same with the quill. If you have the spindle out and want a quick check If it is bent, then just roll it on a flat surface. Even your kitchen worktop will do initially. You would be surprised how even a very small inaccuracy will be immediately obvious. If the bore is worn in the casting then how to repair it depends on the design, and whether it is oval or round. Bearing suppliers do very thin sleeves designed to fit over badly grooved shafts to restore them and provide a new surface for an oil seal. Something like this might work. Or you could modify the casting so the clearance can be reduced.