Beginners heavyduty(ish) workbench design on a budget.

[Vikash]

Here's a design for a workbench for the garage. This is the first time I'll be attempting something like this so I would appreciate any advice that might prevent me from making major mistakes.

I'm about to buy a decent router to do my first M&T joints for this project. The timber sizes have been calculated based on the PAR Redwood sizes available in B&Q. I don't have a P/T so this is the only real option I think.

Budget is a large consideration: I'll adjust the depth of the bench to about 600mm and width to 2440mm which means I can make effecient use of a single sheet for the worktop (2x18mm). By my reckoning I can build the table using:
Legs - 2pcs Redwood (75mm x 75mm x 4.8m) @ £8.27 = £16.54
Sides - 6pcs Redwood (20.5mm x 94mm x 3.6m) @ £5.05 = £30.30
Worktop - 1pc MDF (2440mm x 1220mm x 18mm) @ 15.97
Total: £62.81

Not shown on the images, but I'll add a shelf at the bottom from some 12mm ply/mdf or the like.

I want to put a milling machine at one end of the table (which weighs in excess of 135kg) so my first concern is whether the structure looks sound enough? Other than it will be just be a general workbench for the occasional woodworking project.

I'd appreciate any constructive criticism/pointers...

 

[Chems]

What are you planning on using for your desktop Im guessing some sort of ply or something? I made the mistake of using a ply for my first worktop and although its durable enough I wouldnt use anything but a real wood next time around.

 

[TheDudester]

For the top I would use several layers of MDF with a replaceable hard board surface.

Regards

D

 

[gatesmr2]

Ok i'm a newbie as well and built somthing along the same lines.

The only thing i would say after being moaned at by my ever loving (telling me how it should be done lol) father is i have a shelf under the top to store tools IE router, drills, sanders etc etc.
He decided as people are always looking for somthing to steal i should put a cover (flap) on the front to cover them from prying eyes. :evil:

Ok for an easy life i did but it turned out to be an amazing idea but for different reasons.
It keeps everything free from dust etc and helps keep leads out of the way.

Sorry if this is obvious advice but as i said i'm a newbie as well, one thing you will find on this forum is a great wealth of info from people who want to help, they have made my life a lot easier. the only problem is the further i get into woodwork the more i enjoy it, maybe it's me but it can be very adictive as well as expensive :shock:

One more silly thing i spent over an hour making sure it was 100% level time very well spent.

Hope this helps

Martin

 

[Vikash]

The images in the first post have been updated with new dimensions. The top is now 3x18mm MDF sheets and three shelves added.

Anyone like to hazard a guess as to whether it will comfortably take a constant 200kg? I think it will easily, but I'd like some opinions before ruining some expensive machinery.

Also any advice or alternatives on building it from B&Q's Redwood and MDF?

Thanks for the ideas Martin.

 

[NeilO]

Vikash, thats pretty much how I built mine, with the exception of the centre....As I was given a old pine dresser ( with the top section missing) and was using it to store several bits and bobs in the shop.
And following several threads on workbenches here ( check out Wizer`s for one) used boring old pine again and good old MDF (stable and flat) and knocked one up with that..

had a 18 mm sheet cut into three equal pieces lenghtwise glued them together and then a 12mm MDF sacrificial top to finish that, and used the pine to make the legs..

 

[Shultzy]

Vikash, a couple of comments on your design - make sure you get the height right, 754mm (29.7") seems a bit low for the bench height. It needs to be a comfortable height to stop getting backache - make provision for a vice, the top rail might get in the way.

 

[big soft moose]

i'm building mine tommorow (pretty much to the same design except that i have much wood coming gratis and am adapting design to fit , e.g uprights will be softwood 4x3" )

one thing about your design is that i notice you dont have any diagonal bracing - i'd be inclined to add some across the back to stop your squares from going wibbly and becoming parallelograms under the weight.

 

[Grinding One]

I would use plywood,if your garage is around damp condition the MDF will swell and warp.I also would enclose at least three sides with a piece of plywood.....it keeps stuff you fit under the top from rolling off,heck this things going to be heavy and your not going to be able to move it around much by yourself.A backsplash would help too,I also encorparated a hollow area on my top so I have a place to hold things that roll easily .It keeps them on the table and not on the floor.Finally the plywood wood address the bracing problem nicely.

 

[ike]

Looks well-proportioned. What you want to aim for when its complete is mass - the heavier the better . I went a bit heavier on the sections for mine - 4"x4" legs, 4"x2" bottom rails, 6"x2" top rails (helped to mount large vice) Top is 8"x1-1/2" planks topped with 3/4" ply.

Mortice and tenoning the 4 A frames, and half-lapping the rails to the legs will keep the whole thing nice and stiff.

cheers,

ike

 

[cerdeira]

Hi,

Just a few comments. Depending on what you're planning to do with the bench, the top stretchers in the base may interfere with clamping. Traditional workbenches usually don't have those.
I'd also go with a solid wood top: you can laminate several 75x75 pieces to get a sturdy one. It would make easier to install a front vice, which is something you'll definitely want to have.
Someone commented on the height being to low and I agree, I'm 1.80m and my bench is 930mm high. If you're planning to do detail work, for instance carving, you can even make it higher.


J. Cerdeira

 

[Benchwayze]

If you are trying to economise, then for the time being, fit an MDF benchtop, with a sacrificial hardboard work surface, as already suggested.

Provided you make the underframe strong enough, you can always build a 'proper' benchtop later to fit to the existing base. it should last you forever, or until your methods of working change.

Get hold of a copy of Chris Schwarz's book, 'Workbenches'. (Reviewed by Woodwhisperer.com.)

The book made me stop and reconsider whether I actually needed the expense of a solid hardwood bench. Schwarz goes fully into the reasons for considering what might seem 'unsuitable species' for a bench; and his reasoning is as sound as his methoids of construction.

Good luck
Regards
John

 

[OPJ]

I would use plywood,if your garage is around damp condition the MDF will swell and warp.

What about Moisture Resistant MDF? Do you think it is possible this may be better still?

 

[gatesmr2]

Ok just a thought !!

Your bench has a lip coming down the front and sides etc on the top, i have seen tops like this on the tv (norm etc)

When i made mine i just left it as mdf over size on the front and sides by 25mm, i have braced the top all round with 4x2 mitered on the corners. But for clamping it's perfect only a few mm thick so most normal hand clamps fit.
I may be being stupid ( not the first time won't be the last :? ) or just tight smaller hand clamps are a lot cheaper.
Why have such a deep lip, ok it looks a lot better but is there a reason.

I know i should be trying to help but wondered is there a reason for this ?

Martin

 

[TheDudester]

Ok just a thought !!

Your bench has a lip coming down the front and sides etc on the top, i have seen tops like this on the tv (norm etc)

When i made mine i just left it as mdf over size on the front and sides by 25mm, i have braced the top all round with 4x2 mitered on the corners. But for clamping it's perfect only a few mm thick so most normal hand clamps fit.
I may be being stupid ( not the first time won't be the last :? ) or just tight smaller hand clamps are a lot cheaper.
Why have such a deep lip, ok it looks a lot better but is there a reason.

I know i should be trying to help but wondered is there a reason for this ?

Martin

I was thinking of doing something similar with a bench I am building. In my case I was thinking of just notching a small amount off to allow me to use two small vices I have.

Regards

D

 

[jim_hanna]

I made myself a solid wood workbench with some 70 x 44 mm B&Q pine which they had on offer recently.
Some details and pics are at:
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au ... post566610

Good luck with your bench.

 

[Vikash]

Wow, a year on and I still haven't got this project going. The milling machine is still sitting there on the pallet it was delivered on.

But I do have a mitre saw now, and a whole bunch of 2x4s (or 100 x 47mm to be precise).

I don't fancy doing all those M&T's and wanted something that was simpler to make but would still look tidy. This is what I've come up with and plan to start cutting this w/e.

As previously suggested, I'll cover the whole back with sheet ply or similar, and each A-frame will be diagonally braced with a 2x4.

Any advice/opinions would be appreciated.

Edit: What the pic doesn't show is that there will still be 4 A-frames.

Vikash

 

[Benchwayze]

If you don't fancy making mortices and tenons, construct the legs from three pieces of 4 x 1 (100mm x 25mm) laminated to 100 x 75 mm, leaving gaps in the 'lamination' to form mortices where the rails pass through.

Same with the rails, leaving 'false tenons' projecting. This might even be stronger than tenons, because there's no 'tenon-root' to break.

Regards
John

 

[Anonymous]

Hi, All
When I did my benches I just used the Paslode. The bench gets knocked , cut and covered in glue and whatever. It is a utility not a piece of furniture. I leave the M/T joints for better things.
Just my opinion.

Koolwabbit

PS Got given a bench from an old factory. The date, 1935, is engraved underneath and it is still as sturdy as ever. It is assembled with coach bolts. the top is 8x4 and I just replace the top as and when.

 

[big soft moose]

Well since this was first posted ive built mine - then had to take it to bits again on account of getting married and moving house - then i reasembled it , and have now taken it to bits again!! due to getting a new lathe and the subsequent workshop sort out.

this time I'm going to do a propper job (with vices and dogs , and stuff) - though probably not up to olly or lord nibbo standards .