before I order the wood

[tombo]

I have been asked to make two outdoor notice boards for my kids school and i have come up with this.

Its amazing how the costs mount up :shock: so before i commit to buying the wood i would appreciate you comments.

In particular i am planning to add an extra 3' to the verticals for burying in the ground. When i watched one of norms episodes he dug a hole and secured the posts with gravel only he said it is better than concrete as you get drainage and hence the post does not rot. Any thoughts?

Second thing that concerns me is the roof, its just ply at the moment but i would like to make it a bit more attractive and durable suggestions welcome.

Tom

 

[JanneKi]

Why not pour concrete and have two flat irons coming out of it, secure the wooden posts to those with bolts and have the bottom parts of the posts a few inches off the ground? Even more secure than gravel.

 

[RogerS]

I agree with JanneKi. Depending on the soil and height of your water table, you could easily find that the gravel acts as a french drain and all the water finds it's way there...so your posts will always be wet.

Metpost do some suitable supports.

 

[lurker]

Sad isn't it!

In my time, the woodwork & metalwork class would have knocked that up.

By the way - polycarbonate for the "window glass"

 

[Jorden]

I suggest you have the hinges on the side as most people need 2 hands to pin a notice up straight, save the staff from having to hold the door open with their heads.

 

[davegw]

In my time, the woodwork & metalwork class would have knocked that up.

In Mine too - although that does depend on the age of children at the school? If Tombo's children are below secondary age (and I have no idea what year that is, used to be under 11) then we didn't have woodwork and metal work - and I'm guessing papier mache wouldn't quite be up to the job :lol:

 

[wizer]

agree with what's been said, especially side hinges.

For the 'roof', all I can think of is shingles, either real wood (cedar?) or felt.

 

[Green]

We dig a hole, put a large (400mm-ish) perforated sleeve in, stand the post plumb in the middle and then pour peas/hardcore in. Works a treat and is common practise in the signage trade.


Oh aye - lose the gap down each side of the poster holder. guaranteed someones little darling will end up getting an arm or leg trapped - DAMHIKT.

 

[Grinding One]

The one I did was wrap the post with roofing felt,then I planted it in dirt.The felt helps to keep it away from the dirt and rotting as quickly.I use metal for a roof (galvanized Steel) Oh its still there and working well.

 

[Wanlock Dod]

Just a thought re side or top hinges, with top hinges a failure of the closing mechanism will still leave the "door" (mostly) closed, this may not be the case with side hinges.

Dod

 

[big soft moose]

Oh aye - lose the gap down each side of the poster holder. guaranteed someones little darling will end up getting an arm or leg trapped - DAMHIKT.

very true - also having the gap gives the potential for the older little darling (or scrote) to stick a pole in there and use the leverage to trash your hard work.

also on scrote deterence i'd be inclined to make whatever closure mechanism you use lock - otherwise little barstewards will be tearing notices down and or putting up centre folds etc

 

[wizer]

little barstewards will be tearing notices down and or putting up centre folds etc

heheh I miss school

 

[tombo]

Thanks guys, well i ordered the wood today nearly £300 :shock: and i have yet to get the polycarbonate and hinges.

it seems you all went through similar thought processes to me.
My first design had the door opening sideways but i prefer the fail safe always closed option of top hinges, i think i will incorporate a prop on the inside for keeping it open.
I also considered cedar shingles but for the few i would need its not worth the hassle finding so its going to roofing felt.

Ill post pictures of build and installation if there is interest

Tom