They're aluminium on the cheaper models, from the 300 upwards they're cast iron. I just double checked in case I'd forgotten. The reason I shelled out the extra hundred (at the time) for the 350 was for the fast and easy blade change that you get from having the cam action tensioner lever (allows you to slacken the blade right off with the pull of a lever, rather than winding a wheel for five minutes
)
I went with the RP for the build quality, did massive amounts of research and couldn't find anything else within a massive margin of the price that had the cast iron table and wheels or the very sturdy framework. I wanted a machine that's likely to be the next generations version of a wadkin or something, and with a bit of TLC I could easily imagine mine still serving well for my great nephew or further.
Interesting about the bearing guide fault, I'll keep an eye on that, thanks. The only thing I've noticed that's not absolutely spot on about the 350s is that it could do with better dust extraction. The port it has is inside the lower cabinet so it doesn't clear much from around the blade itself (I think this is "standard" in bandsaws, from what I've seen) I usually just stick my extractor nozzle right under the table insert below the blade with a magnet, if I'm cutting a wood with dangerous or nasty dust (yew is really irritant, spalted wood can be very nasty) Oh, and if I'm being critical, the fence could be better, but if it bothered me, I'd buy an after market one anyway.
I'd recommend the RP models over the competition if you're looking for a new machine. I may not be a massively experienced woodworker, but I've used bandsaws for around 25 yrs, and the 350 is one of the best I've had the pleasure of using.
Nic.