Just got an Axminster bandsaw AC1950B for hobby/DIY level use. It's not why I got it but I experimented with cutting a length of 4" x 2" floor joist grade timber, blade cutting narrower 2" depth. Surprised that the cut was not at all straight. As if the blade was wandering sideways too easily. I followed setting up strictly. I'm wondering if the supplied blade was nut up to the task or should I try to redo the setting up process?
Bandsaw Wander
- Thread starter willsie01
- Start date
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It has been said many times, throw away the blades supplied and buy some decent ones. Tuff saws are good but there are others if you look on these forums.
https://www.tuffsaws.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=2
https://www.tuffsaws.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=2
Fully agree with Roy. It's sad to say that most new machines require you to check they are set up and adjusted correctly. Never trust what the manufacturer has done. You might be surprised at what you find but when done, you know it's set up correctly and you have learned a-lot about the machine.
I recommend you take a look at Alex Snodgrass videos on YouTube on how to set-up a bandsaw. In my view, these are one of the best. It has worked for me and what I have read many others too. Use his logics as the basis to setting-up your machine.
Before you start your checks, buy a blade (that you will use) that has a width around 75/85% of what the manufacturer states as to be their maximum. Install this and use it to set-up your machine. I say this as it seems that manufacturers suggest blade widths that the machine may struggle to load-tension successfully; particularly the craft and hobby machines - probably a marketing ploy and there is no point in over-stressing the machine.
Good luck
I recommend you take a look at Alex Snodgrass videos on YouTube on how to set-up a bandsaw. In my view, these are one of the best. It has worked for me and what I have read many others too. Use his logics as the basis to setting-up your machine.
Before you start your checks, buy a blade (that you will use) that has a width around 75/85% of what the manufacturer states as to be their maximum. Install this and use it to set-up your machine. I say this as it seems that manufacturers suggest blade widths that the machine may struggle to load-tension successfully; particularly the craft and hobby machines - probably a marketing ploy and there is no point in over-stressing the machine.
Good luck
I think it was Mr Snodgrass who advised that the two wheels should be completely co-planer, ie straight edge should touch top & bottom of both wheels and then the blade runs where the blade runs. It has worked for my BS400 and using premium Tuff saw blades that are slightly thiner gauge allows them to be tensioned without issues.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Bandsaws don't cut straight a lot of the time, unless blade brand new and saw well set up. Increased tension may help. Otherwise cut to a marked line rather than the fence
I had the same problem and so asked Tuff Saws which blade they recommended for my machine to cut 18mm birch ply. Ian from Tuff Saws replied with a recommendation and link so I bought it and it is superb. Go through all your setups again once you replace the blade, paying specific attention to blade tracking and tension then run your saw and listen for any sounds of blade catching/rumbling,
hope this is useful
hope this is useful
What did Ian recommend?
From his email:
the best blade is a 1/2" x 6/10 M42 or you can also use a 1/2" x 10tpi Carbon blade.
The M42 blades are more expensive but will last at least 5 times longer than other blades especially when cutting abrasive materials such as Ply.
The M42 blade also has sections of 6tpi and 10tpi on the same blade which is a great general tooth pitch.
M42 blades are £25.00 each or Carbon ones are £10.50 each.
I chose the Carbon one: http://bit.ly/2JLiUZD as I don't envisage cutting a lot of ply once my workshop is fitted out later this year. So far I've used it for ripping, trimming and circle cutting 18mm birch ply and it has been excellent.
Hi thanks for the info,
I currently have an M42 1/2 10-14 vari which maybe ok as there would be between 7 and 10 teeth in the 18mm birch ply but a 6/10 would have between 4 and 7 teeth in the 18mm birch ply. I would say the M42 blades do last much better.
I currently have an M42 1/2 10-14 vari which maybe ok as there would be between 7 and 10 teeth in the 18mm birch ply but a 6/10 would have between 4 and 7 teeth in the 18mm birch ply. I would say the M42 blades do last much better.
Orraloon
Established Member
All good advise. I will just add one thing I learned the hard way on the long road to getting a bandsaw to work. If you want to do strait rips then dont use that blade to cut circles. Had a lot of frustration after cutting bowl blanks then trying to cut using the fence. Now I dont bother with round bowl blanks, just knock off the corners. Saves blade changing.
Regards
John
Regards
John
I have had a couple of M42 blades snap on my Felder bandsaw (Italian, so not made by Felder, but still a quality machine). I am an amateur so the machine isn't used every day or even every week and the blades certainly did not last 5x the life of a carbon blade. I discussed this with Ian and we concluded that it might be to do with the fact that the machine sits idle for quite lengthy periods and machines will often come to a halt in the same position, meaning that the same parts of the blade will be bent around a wheel when the machine is not in use. He hadn't heard of the problem from users but that may be because less frequent users like me are less likely to buy these blades - I buy them because I hate the faff of blade changing.
Ian suggested releasing the tension after I finish using the machine - something bandsaw makers often suggest but I doubt that many users actually do it. I now do this and have a sign on the machine to remind me; so far so good.
Jim
Ian suggested releasing the tension after I finish using the machine - something bandsaw makers often suggest but I doubt that many users actually do it. I now do this and have a sign on the machine to remind me; so far so good.
Jim
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
I had frequent broken blades when I started years ago. Cured by lowering tension - never had one since. Tension should be as low as possible - just enough to drive the blade without it slipping. Or just a bit higher if it isn't tracking too well.
