I want one of these, oh yes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0fb1l9 ... ew%20Klein
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0fb1l9 ... ew%20Klein
bandsaw owners dream
- Thread starter sunnybob
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Sorry I don't get it. When resawing you are using the fence so why the guide pins? I thought the reason for a deep blade was you could get more tension on it.
Mine lives with 3/8 - 4 tpi and is pretty versatile and happy to do deep resewing with it without guide pins.
Mine lives with 3/8 - 4 tpi and is pretty versatile and happy to do deep resewing with it without guide pins.
Alexam
Bandsaw Boxmaker
I saw this a few days ago and thought that there is no need for a pin to correct drift. If the bandsaw is set up correctly there is no drift. It could be helpful for those who cant get their bandsaw orking correctly, or don't want to bother trying to correct problems
maybe I'm looking at it from the wrong angle.
I saw it as a way to keep my 1/4 inch blade on but still rip bigger stuff. i get really peed off with blade changes.
i'll go back and re visit it and see if It's useful or not.
I saw it as a way to keep my 1/4 inch blade on but still rip bigger stuff. i get really peed off with blade changes.
i'll go back and re visit it and see if It's useful or not.
I don't see what the pins offer on a properly configured bandsaw with a good rip fence. Without a fence, the pins might add some stability for the cut. I would like to see him duplicate the mahogany re-sawing without the pins and compare the cuts.
stuartpaul
Established Member
Yes, I think you are (but of course I could be wrong!). The function of the pins is to help imitate the strength of a wider blade so when resawing it's 'stiffer' like a wide resaw blade would be.NazNomad":qjpdewxh said:
When the pins are removed it's back to a 'bendy' blade.
All this and no having to fiddle with blade tension.
That's how I think it works anyhow!
RobinBHM
Established Member
I cant see that pin lasting very long before it bends or snaps off, if its only the width of a 1/4" blade kerf it cant be very big.
Also once a narrow blade has been used for curved cuts it probably wont cut parallel to the fence and a pin isnt going to help
Also once a narrow blade has been used for curved cuts it probably wont cut parallel to the fence and a pin isnt going to help
transatlantic
Boom!
I saw this too. My first thought was that you would lose the benefit of the larger gullet on a larger rip saw blade?
I think he is just trying to get the best out of a general blade that is changed as infrequently as possible, which is fair enough.
I think he is just trying to get the best out of a general blade that is changed as infrequently as possible, which is fair enough.
Alexam
Bandsaw Boxmaker
sunnybob":3qglhf57 said:
Not sure how deep you want to rip, but I have ripped a 6" plank with my 1/8" blade. Very slowly but it worked well.
It would have been a lot quicker by changing blades, but thought I would give it a go and it was happy on the Carter stabilizer which is only held at the back of the blade at the top with no lower guide.
M
I cant rip a 6" block with a 3/16ths blade. But i dont have the carter stabiliser.
The blade doesnt drift as such, but over a long cut the wood tends to pull away from the fence if I have a thin blade in.
The pin is acting like a table saw riving knife, keeping the wood stable and central.
The blade doesnt drift as such, but over a long cut the wood tends to pull away from the fence if I have a thin blade in.
The pin is acting like a table saw riving knife, keeping the wood stable and central.
Brentingby
Established Member
The pins aren't going to make the 1/4 in. blade act like a wider blade and they won't make the blade stronger. If the blade and the fence are properly aligned, the pins won't do anything.
woodbrains
Established Member
Hello,
There is a point to it. Blades used for cutting curves don't want to cut straight when you need them to. The pins will keep the kerf running parallel to the fence, regardless of how the thin blade will try 'remember' it wants to cut a curve. I can't say how effective his set up actually is, but the logic is sound.
Mike.
There is a point to it. Blades used for cutting curves don't want to cut straight when you need them to. The pins will keep the kerf running parallel to the fence, regardless of how the thin blade will try 'remember' it wants to cut a curve. I can't say how effective his set up actually is, but the logic is sound.
Mike.
sunnybob":27ihzs3w said:
Hi Bob
Sounds like you need to adjust the angle of your fence if possible. I find no two blades track quite the same line so set the fence parallel if doing precise ripping work. Simple way to to do this is find as straight grained off cut as possible say 25mm or more thick and run a parallel pencil line up the length of it. Freehand cut along the the line and then stop mid cut being careful not to move the off cut. Turn off the bandsaw and set the fence parallel to the off cut and your done. Apologies if teaching my grandmother to suck eggs
Beau, it never hurts to state the obvoius, 'cos sometimes it aint. But yes i've done that.
I had a hard learning curve with my bandsaws, but am now quite happy.
Note the "quite", I still would like to set up that doesnt need to be changed as soon as I get it right again.
Seems top be an either or debate on this gadget. i would like to try it out though.
I had a hard learning curve with my bandsaws, but am now quite happy.
Note the "quite", I still would like to set up that doesnt need to be changed as soon as I get it right again.
Seems top be an either or debate on this gadget. i would like to try it out though.
