bandsaw motor

[treefrog]

hi, thanks for having me.

I have just bought a record bs300e bandsaw in need of a new motor. The existing, dead, one has no markings! its a single phase, 1 hp and I think it runs at 1400rpm (although this is guesswork) my question is can anyone point me in the right direction for an affordable, (tight budget) replacement?
I see that face mounted ones are more expensive than foot mounted so I may have to modify it to fit foot mounted.

 

[beech1948]

treefrog,

I would start by removing the motor and taking it apart. If you don't feel up to that then have a look at owwm.org as a site that will have more experience on motor disassembly than any 50 people could absorb in a lifetime.

Check the brushes as failure here will render motor very sparky or inoperable. Replace brushes as a matter of course.

Remove long bolts securing the body parts and remove the front and rear end bells.

Check the commutator for wear. If worn then undercut the commutator ( see videos) and give it a clean with sandpaper remembering to blow it clean and wash with thinners to clean up.

Check bearings and replace as needed

Reassemble, apply electricity with no load and if motor spins up all is good.

 

[MikeJhn]

Or get a replacement motor from Record Power.

Mike

 

[beech1948]

MikeJHn is possibly making a correct recommendation. I just got the impression you wanted to keep costs down.

Remember that its very difficult to damage an electric motor such that it won't work and often requires fairly simple and quick to do repairs.

 

[Sideways]

I would be very surprised if this wasn't an induction motor (smooth body or fins on the outside, fan at the end, no holes for dust to get into the motor).
If so, there are no brushes to wear out, but there is probably a round can shaped capacitor wired directly to the motor. These age and fail so they are the first thing to check after the obvious one of checking that power is reaching the motor terminal box.
Please excuse if you already know all this stuff ...
There will be one main and one secondary winding inside the motor so probably 4 terminals in the box. If you have a test meter, measure the resistance of each winding./ You're looking for a low resistance in each case but not a dead short. The resistances of the two windings are usually a little different.
If this shows that a winding has failed then it's sensible to price up a factory replacement just in case. It's also possible that you'll be able to buy a generic motor that will fit as a direct replacement. Record will be using standard motors to keep their costs down. It doesn't make sense to design a commodity product that needs bespoke motor as that means extra cost.
You need to know
- the power of the motor (and is it input or output ?),
- rpm,
- diameter and length of the spindle,
- dimensions of the "key" in the shaft
- details of the face of flange mount.
Mounts are standardised, note the number of mounting bolts (3,4, 6) bolt diameters (M8 or M10 probably), and the diameter of the circle they lie on.
With all of that, a motor supplier will be able to select a replacement to fit.
I think TECO motors are easy enough to get hold of at accessible prices.
Personally I wouldn't change face / flange mounting to foot. It might save a tenner, it might not, but not worth the hassle.