Bandsaw minimum blade width

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I have found the side guilds are not needed with properly crowned pulley tires. With the blade riding center of the wheel it cuts fine with only the thrust bearing. If i were to make guilds i would use oil impregnating bronzes(good hard a slippery and won't take the set off the teeth) there is not much band left behind the gullet of a 1/4" blade let alone a scroll blade for support anyway. just saying

jack
 
When I am cutting the small diameters for boxes if I don't have the guides down as far as I can then the line is not as crisp as if they are. So in my opinion if the guides are not set up properly then there is nothing to hld the blade tight in the direction that any tight turn is trying to take it.

The idea that a straight cut can be done without the blade guides? I don't know because I have never tried it, but I would think that it would try to follow the grain?

I stand to be corrected, but I don't think I will try it as it is so easy to cut straight with said guides :mrgreen:
 
John
I think you misunderstood me. My statement is for small blades only (less than a 1/4" wide) to disengage the side guilds so as not to spoil the set .

I have found that blade width has more to do with tight curves than blade side guilds. The point being that a thin blades back will not rub the side wall of the cut if used in the right width. Of the 3 band-saws in the shop I like my little 16"Bursgreen BZB for small blades. The 30" wadkin DR runs small blades like crap(nothing under 12mm)as does the 20" aggazzani. Cutting with the small blades is sensitive work and a finely tuned band saw is needed for a quality cut. I do think that if you need side support for small blade cutting you are using to wide a blade or your band saw is up for a tune up and or you are pushing the limits of the blade width to radius. we have all done that, buy that is not sensative work IMHO.

jack
 
My experience, as I have said, is limited to my Startrite and to a 1/4" blade, mostly 6 skip, and I normally take the rear sharp edges off of the blade to help in the tight turns as I said earlier. As I have no intentin of going to smaller blades I keep the work that I do within the limits of that. I can see that with a smaller blade than that there is very little 'meat' that the guides can work on, plus the guides would need to be so close as to almost touch the wood being cut. If this is much more than an inch or so thick then they aren't going to have much effect because any turning of the wood is going to turn the blade as it does on that devilish machine called a scroll saw :oops: :oops: How anyone can produce what they do on them I don't know and they have my admiration. =D> =D>

I do have one and it is my last line of attack :mrgreen:

Edit : - Justa s a matter of interest Jack, I think that I could stand my likkle Startrite under your likkle Bursgreen :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 

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