Bandsaw blade suggestions
- Thread starter Rorschach
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Well I have had the blade just over a month now and sadly I can't say I am very impressed. Edge retention is poor, it's getting very dull now and the drift is the worst I have ever experienced on a bandsaw blade, I can't use my fence at all, we are talking about at least a 1/4" of drift over a 6" cut. I've got a second blade to try out which I will do but if my experience is similar then I will be going back to axminster blades.
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
Have you tried tracking the blade ....and ave you squared your table parallel to the blade?
Guessing it's not the same thickness as the other blade, nor tooth profile from what you said.
Even if it was the same blade I still would expect it to be perfect without some adjustment.
I would not expect any blade to run the same without some adjustment.
Is your blade duller to the touch ?
and you weren't cutting something that could have dulled it?
Tom
Guessing it's not the same thickness as the other blade, nor tooth profile from what you said.
Even if it was the same blade I still would expect it to be perfect without some adjustment.
I would not expect any blade to run the same without some adjustment.
Is your blade duller to the touch ?
and you weren't cutting something that could have dulled it?
Tom
Nothing has changed on the saw, it has been used as normal over the last 5-6 weeks and has steadily been getting worse. Feeling the teeth they are now burred over which would explain the poor cutting performance. Not sure what is causing the drift.
Took off the blade and replaced with the 2nd one I had bought, it cut clean and straight right away, no fiddling with the saw needed other than tensioning after replacement. We will see how long this one lasts.
Took off the blade and replaced with the 2nd one I had bought, it cut clean and straight right away, no fiddling with the saw needed other than tensioning after replacement. We will see how long this one lasts.
paulm
IG paulm_outdoors
I've never known teeth to get burred over, lose a bit of sharpness but not burring, what have you been cutting with it ?
paulm":2doij3s7 said:
Hardwoods including bog oak, softwoods, some plastics, very small amount of particle board. The usual stuff I normally cut and normally there would be horn and sometimes Ivory too. I do push my blades hard I know but I would normally expect to get about 3-4 months out of a blade, got almost 6 months out of my previous Axi blade in fact.
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
Well the bog oak could have stone deposits, and particle board sometimes contains nails as it it often made from recycled pallets and such.
Maybe it could be one of these factors?
Tom
Maybe it could be one of these factors?
Tom
Ttrees":2srpth6p said:
Always a possibility of course, but I have to say I have never had that happen in the last 10 years of using a bandsaw (always a first time of course) and also I would expect that to cause a sudden loss of sharpness (and maybe noise?), this has not happened, the blade has just got dull over time of using it, no sudden change. Today was the first time I tried to use the fence in about a week or so and I noticed how bad the drift had got. That's what pushed me to look back to when I installed the blade and I was rather shocked.
2nd blade already dulling fast and it has only been lightly used. No drift so far, despite lots of curved cutting but it was really struggling today cutting pine which it should have sailed through given its only a few weeks old.
Alexam
Bandsaw Boxmaker
It has to be blade position being damaged by the guides.
I would suggest all guides and bearings, top and bottom, are moved back and then see if the blade can run under power without drifting forwards or backwards on the top wheel. For a 1/4" blade, the gullet of the teeth need to be in the centre of the top wheel and if it remains there after powering up and stopping, then powering up again, only then bring the guides and bearings back to where they should be.
The Thrust bearings are the most important as only they can prevent the blade from moving back between the guides and so damaging the teeth. Correct tension is also critical because the blade can travel forwards without that tension being right. It cannot move back if the Thrust bearing is set correctly.
Hope this helps
Malcolm
May I assume that you have sen this video and based tuning on that? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU
I would suggest all guides and bearings, top and bottom, are moved back and then see if the blade can run under power without drifting forwards or backwards on the top wheel. For a 1/4" blade, the gullet of the teeth need to be in the centre of the top wheel and if it remains there after powering up and stopping, then powering up again, only then bring the guides and bearings back to where they should be.
The Thrust bearings are the most important as only they can prevent the blade from moving back between the guides and so damaging the teeth. Correct tension is also critical because the blade can travel forwards without that tension being right. It cannot move back if the Thrust bearing is set correctly.
Hope this helps
Malcolm
May I assume that you have sen this video and based tuning on that? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU
Definitely not a problem with my guides, I run 1/4" blades exclusively and the guides are set just right for them. Even when I rarely switch to a 3/8" blade I don't touch the guides since it runs fine on the same setting.
Plastic smashes blades, bandsaw or circular saw. Does sound peculiar. Only just spotted this thread but have to say Custard has got it bang on with his description of m42 blades.
I only use to use Axminster blades, but after even trying tuffsaws normal ones, I'd never go back to Axminsters. It's been mentioned in another thread that cutting loads of curvy stuff, then expecting it to cut bang on straight when using a fence, is asking alot from any brand of blade. Curvy cutting will likely mean one side of the blade wears quicker than the other- easy solution is a narrow blade for curvy work and a wide ish blade for ripping.
I hope you can get to the bottom of it.
Coley
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
I only use to use Axminster blades, but after even trying tuffsaws normal ones, I'd never go back to Axminsters. It's been mentioned in another thread that cutting loads of curvy stuff, then expecting it to cut bang on straight when using a fence, is asking alot from any brand of blade. Curvy cutting will likely mean one side of the blade wears quicker than the other- easy solution is a narrow blade for curvy work and a wide ish blade for ripping.
I hope you can get to the bottom of it.
Coley
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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Been using Tuffsaws blades for some years, best blades in my experience for sharpness and longevity. I cut a lot of recycled timber with hidden nails and staples, current blade still going strong after 3 months or so.
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Rorschach":53l5fpgq said:
Bi-metal blades along with the Sabrecut or Supercut premium (not sure which), 1/2" 3 TPI mostly, would need to look up the last order. I've never had teeth "burr over", certainly will lose sharpness over time but with a well maintained and adjusted BS, I've never used better blades.
As suggested you should contact Ian or Susi, always very helpful.
I am glad I am not the only one with issues regarding Tuffsaws blades. I have used them for à long Time now And for the last two years I have been using the vari tooth blade. At first I have found them to be wonderful but I find they quickly deterioate. Despite numerous adjustments It be comes impossible to use the fence because of drift. I can cut freehand And the blade does not seem to be too bad. I have become so fed up with the bandsaw I am now using my frame Saw.
Smithy
Smithy
Alexam
Bandsaw Boxmaker
NO such thing as drift if the saw is 'tuned' correctly.
GET THE BEST TUNING FROM A BANDSAW 'Alex Snodgrass of Carter Industries has an excellent video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU on a tune up method that works well.
Tuning is only that and nothing else. If you really want to get the very best use of your bandsaw on an ongoing basis, then the Steve Maskery DVD's will show you far more and they are a real investment that you should own. http://www.workshopessentials.com/shop/ '.
CHECKING BLADE TENSION - Flutter test Video's -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chyo9chuwJs and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8zZuDosSy0
BUY BEST BLADES FROM ..... http://www.tuffsaws.co.uk/
TUNE WITH SOUND ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPyc2iDQnOA&vl ( UNPROVEN )
Whenever you have put a blade on a bandsaw, ask yourself the following questions:-
....... are you managing to get the blade running freely and central on the top wheel ( without guides or rear bearing near the blade ) with the gullet of the teeth in the centre of the top wheel ? The exception would be with wider blades, as 1/2" and wider may not sit 'centred' on the top wheel).
That's the first priority before closing in guides and thrust bearings. The blade will not be in the centre of the lower wheel as the manufacturer allows the top wheel to be adjusted and tilt to allow tuning.
Is the blade running vertical 90° to the table alignment, front and back as well as side to side?
Once the guides and bearings have been brought to the correct position, (not touching when the blade runs freely) is the blade remaining where it should be when run under power and switched on and off checking several times ?
Are you sure that the tension is correct, or as near as it can be. Each blade could be different, even if it is the same depth, so needs to be checked whenever changing blades.
If all these things are correct, then you should get a true cut unless you are trying to cut the wood too fast and it's filling the teeth with sawdust and pushing the blade out of line and see if teeth are damaged in any way.
Finally, if you have used the blade before, make sure the teeth are clean, as sawdust will stick in the teeth gullet. Cleaning with a wire brush will result in a far better cut before starting a new job, but certainly on a regular basis.
Hope this helps you.
If you could put your location on your Profile, someone local to you may be able to help.
Malcolm
GET THE BEST TUNING FROM A BANDSAW 'Alex Snodgrass of Carter Industries has an excellent video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU on a tune up method that works well.
Tuning is only that and nothing else. If you really want to get the very best use of your bandsaw on an ongoing basis, then the Steve Maskery DVD's will show you far more and they are a real investment that you should own. http://www.workshopessentials.com/shop/ '.
CHECKING BLADE TENSION - Flutter test Video's -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chyo9chuwJs and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8zZuDosSy0
BUY BEST BLADES FROM ..... http://www.tuffsaws.co.uk/
TUNE WITH SOUND ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPyc2iDQnOA&vl ( UNPROVEN )
Whenever you have put a blade on a bandsaw, ask yourself the following questions:-
....... are you managing to get the blade running freely and central on the top wheel ( without guides or rear bearing near the blade ) with the gullet of the teeth in the centre of the top wheel ? The exception would be with wider blades, as 1/2" and wider may not sit 'centred' on the top wheel).
That's the first priority before closing in guides and thrust bearings. The blade will not be in the centre of the lower wheel as the manufacturer allows the top wheel to be adjusted and tilt to allow tuning.
Is the blade running vertical 90° to the table alignment, front and back as well as side to side?
Once the guides and bearings have been brought to the correct position, (not touching when the blade runs freely) is the blade remaining where it should be when run under power and switched on and off checking several times ?
Are you sure that the tension is correct, or as near as it can be. Each blade could be different, even if it is the same depth, so needs to be checked whenever changing blades.
If all these things are correct, then you should get a true cut unless you are trying to cut the wood too fast and it's filling the teeth with sawdust and pushing the blade out of line and see if teeth are damaged in any way.
Finally, if you have used the blade before, make sure the teeth are clean, as sawdust will stick in the teeth gullet. Cleaning with a wire brush will result in a far better cut before starting a new job, but certainly on a regular basis.
Hope this helps you.
If you could put your location on your Profile, someone local to you may be able to help.
Malcolm
RogerP
Established Member
Is this after you have been cutting a lot of curves?Smithy":3rmqorgu said:
Many Thanks Roger And Malcom for your replies. I have had a play this afternoon. I have got the blade with the gullets dead on the centre and I have adjusted the fence And It seems to be running a lot better. I think I might have been over complicating things. I have had this Métabo 316 for years And It has been great in general. I use It a lot for ripping up into slats which I use to make into a Normandy style trug/garden basket, I don,t do a lot of résawing.
Many Thanks
Smithy
Many Thanks
Smithy
