Bandsaw blade change ideas.

[Rorschach]

Looking for some clever ideas to help me improve my bandsaw blade changing. I have an Axminster Awhbs350n (I am pretty sure that's the model number), anyway it is the forerunner to their current 350 model:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ho ... saw-508206

The difference though is that the current model has a slot in the side of the table for changing the blade whereas mine has the slot at the front of the table. Now while the front slot makes inserting and removing the blade a breeze, I have to remove the fence guide to do so, which is not such a breeze.
Anyone have a clever idea for how I could change things so I don't need to remove the fence guide, the current setup means I am loathe to change blades as often as I should and though I know it's wrong I often use a dull blade for longer or an unsuitable blade for the job at hand because it isn't worth the hassle to change for just one cut. If I didn't need to remove the fence then blade changing would take seconds and I would do it much more often.

Thanks in advance.

EDIT: Mine is actually the 310 model, I don't think they do a current equivalent, but anyway, the saw is essentially the same design as above, just smaller.

 

[woodpig]

A picture of your saw may be helpful.

 

[Rorschach]

Essentially identical to the axminster linked except as noted the blade slot is at the front, not the side.

 

[Alexam]

I don't know your particular model of bandsaw, but am surprised that any bandsaw requires the removal of the fence to facilitate changing blades. Usually it is a table stability bar connecting either side of the slot under the table to undo, then the blade should slide out. A photo would help, as the Axminster site does not bring one up.

I tend to change blades according to the work required, but if you are cutting the same item all the time, I suppose it's OK. I hope it is a Tuffsaw blade, which should stay sharper longer.

Malcolm

PS....... check your location (Deovn?)

 

[finish_that]

Use wing nuts for the fence guide fixings and slot the guide so that it swings to allow the blade to reach/leave the table slit. If you can arrange that to work then blade changes will be quick enough - it needs to be no tools.

 

[Steve Maskery]

My Scheppach has the slot from the front and the fence support rail swings out of the way. It's not the most convenient arrangement, but it's not awful either.
The biggest danger is that when it is returned to position it is not in exactly the same place, so even if I swap one blade for an identical one, I still have to check and adjust for drift before using it.

 

[monkeybiter]

I've got a 350N and I share your pain!
I think the best long term solution may be to secure the fence guide in position ,then slit it with a hacksaw to allow blade removal.
Having said that, it won't allow for table allignment plug removal, so no good.

Maybe just stick to what we've got [which is a decent bandsaw at the price] and not fret because necessary blade changes aren't that frequent.

 

[Rorschach]

I've got a 350N and I share your pain!
I think the best long term solution may be to secure the fence guide in position ,then slit it with a hacksaw to allow blade removal.
Having said that, it won't allow for table allignment plug removal, so no good.

Maybe just stick to what we've got [which is a decent bandsaw at the price] and not fret because necessary blade changes aren't that frequent.

That was the only solution I could come up with so far. Removing the plug would not be a a problem with a permanent fence. My other though was possible rotating the table 180deg so the slot is at the back. It might require a little fiddling when changing the blade but at least it wouldn't require tools etc.

 

[NazNomad]

I don't know your particular model of bandsaw, but am surprised that any bandsaw requires the removal of the fence to facilitate changing blades.

My Kity 613 does. It's quick & easy enough though.

 

[Rorschach]

I don't know your particular model of bandsaw, but am surprised that any bandsaw requires the removal of the fence to facilitate changing blades.

My Kity 613 does. It's quick & easy enough though.

Mine isn't fast or easy unfortunately, there are 4 bolts with washers that have to removed and replaced and the fence guide is not keyed in any way so I have to level and adjust it each time so the fence fits properly onto it.

 

[RogerP]

I have the same model bandsaw and found the same inconvenience so I simply cut through the fence rail at the appropriate point making a gap through which the blade will pass. Both halves of the fence rail are retained by two bolts so no problems. Works a treat.

 

[Rorschach]

I have the same model bandsaw and found the same inconvenience so I simply cut through the fence rail at the appropriate point making a gap through which the blade will pass. Both halves of the fence rail are retained by two bolts so no problems. Works a treat.

Ahh now that is good to hear. I was hoping I might get a response like this (dreading a "don't cut it in half" one lol). What did you use to make the cut? I thought about a hacksaw but wondered if the kerf is wide enough and whether I should maybe mark the area to be cut and use my chop saw instead?

 

[RogerP]

I just cut through with a hacksaw then tidied up the sawn faces to leave a gap when reassembled about the same width as that in the cast iron table. The kerf of a hacksaw is of course on its own too narrow but a bit of filing soon gets it about right.

 

[Steve Maskery]

I'd be inclined to do that job with a mounted angle grinder.

 

[Rorschach]

I just cut through with a hacksaw then tidied up the sawn faces to leave a gap when reassembled about the same width as that in the cast iron table. The kerf of a hacksaw is of course on its own too narrow but a bit of filing soon gets it about right.

Good to know, thanks.

 

[Rorschach]

I'd be inclined to do that job with a mounted angle grinder.

The fence guide is aly so angle grinder not really a good choice, probably not big enough either.

 

[RogerP]

I'd be inclined to do that job with a mounted angle grinder.

Yes that would work ... but it only takes a few minutes with a hacksaw and a file.

 

[Rorschach]

Ok so this morning I decided to take the plunge and carry out the modifications.

I marked the location of the slot on the fence guide and then using an aluminium blade in my little evolution chop saw I cut the fence, the guide was securely clamped to the saw for safety.
Aside from hot chips flying everywhere (I had to done my hard hat and visor lol) it went smoothly and the cut quality is more than adequate. To widen the slot I moved the guide over and trimmed another blade kerf so I had 2 blade widths removed from the guide which should allow plenty of room to get the blade in an out.
After a bit of deburring I reinstalled my 2 guide halves, hopefully the last time they will need removing so I took my time to get everything setup nicely. Initial testing shows the fence still clamps securely across the table. The rule is obviously not as accurate anymore but then I never really used it, preferring to measure from the blade directly.
Blade changes should now be a lot faster and easier requiring just the opening of the doors and removal of the table plug.

While I taking pics I thought I would also show my little sub table in case anyone is interested. I use it for working on smaller pieces of wood, it allows for a zero clearance to the blade which stops slivers getting stuck and allows plenty of support, the surface is also nice and smooth for easy manoeuvring of the piece. I made it simply from an off cut of shiny melamine worktop and some rare earth magnets that stop it sliding around on the table. Works great and lives on the saw most of the time, when not being used the magnets allow it to store on the back of the cabinet.

 

[monkeybiter]

Nice job, I like the use of the magnets too. That bloody to-do list just gets longer and longer!

What do you use to pull the alignment plug? I generally lever it out with a spanner astride it. I think the fence will hinder this method without further chopping.

 

[Rorschach]

Nice job, I like the use of the magnets too. That bloody to-do list just gets longer and longer!

What do you use to pull the alignment plug? I generally lever it out with a spanner astride it. I think the fence will hinder this method without further chopping.

I also use a spanner, 10mm fits behind the head just nicely and levers it out no problem. There is plenty of room to remove the plug without removing the fence, I checked before I started this morning as if I couldn't remove the plug then the whole project was pointless. I expected I might have to file down the plug to allow more room but actually it slides out just fine and goes back in no problem either.