Bandsaw blade adjustment on narrow blades

[Kev]

Hi all,

I have a Jet JWBS-16 bandsaw which I use regularly but mainly for straight cuts, ripping etc so nearly always has a 19mm blade in it. However have a project which requires curved work so replaced blade for a 6mm blade. Blade changed no problem and tensioned fine. Tracked the blade to make sure it was sittin roughly in the middle of the wheels.

The problem with this is that it means the guide wheels come past the front of the blade i.e. the teeth of the blade are going through the guide wheel. I have assumed this is a problem in that surely it will at very least prematurely blunt the teeth. Am I correct in thinking that the teeth at least should be in front of the side guide wheels? If so the obvious solution seems to be to track the blade forward on the wheel. As it is only a 6mm blade, to get the teeth to protrude in front of the guide wheels means having the blade right on the front edge of the bandsaw wheels. Is this okay or is there another way round this. Also as the wheels are slightly convex where the blade makes contact with the bandsaw wheels is it best to increase the tension a bit.

Apologies if I am asking stupid questions here but as i said only normally use deeper blades where this is not an issue so not sure what is correct with narrower blades.

Any ideas

 

[Noel]

Hi Kev. If you bring the blade forward on the wheels without adjusting the guides you'll lose the use of the rear thrust bearing which is important as the blade won't be supported. Much better to adjust the guides top and bottom. It should only takes a minute or so. It's pretty basic knowledge. Would suggest taking time out and doing some research on basic BS use, plenty of it about or buy one of many books about the subject.

Edit- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMY1cDUoGa8

Another edit- just watched the video and the bloke has a slightly different way of setting the guides, basically correct but personally would prefer the bottom guides a bit further back. And he forgot to lock the top guides off.....

 

[Peter Sefton]

I have not used the Jet bandsaw but I would hope you can adjust both the side guides and the thrust wheel to suit the narrow blade.

I try to not use the tracking adjustment and would hope you don't need too. I have never readjusted my Hammer's tracking since I set it up 8 years ago.

I would undo the locking bristol levers or nuts and move the side guides and thrust wheel back away from the blade position. This should be done above and below the table.

Put the blade on central to both top and bottom wheels and apply tension and then free hand run the blade a few times and it should find it's natural place on the bandsaw wheels.

Then make adjustments to the guides to set them to the blade. If your side guides are too far forward they will damage your blade but even worse they will damage the guides.

I hope this helps Cheers Peter

 

[Noel]

Bit of an echo around here...................: )

 

[Alexam]

Hi Kev, there is really only one way to set up the bandsaw ....... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

I have used this method and it really does work. Takes a little time, but time well spent.

Back off all guides and thrusters. Then get the blade running with the lowest part of the gullet (teeth bottom) in the centre of the upper wheel. Ignor the lower wheel. THEN and only when the blade is running correctly, set the thrusters to be just behing the blade. THEN set the guides to be just off the blade. Should then run perfectly. Watch the video a couple of time and you will have a bandsaw that runs true.

Alex

 

[Steve Maskery]

I'm not intimate with that particular BS, but I would expect any BS to be able to handle 1/4". Set the guides back and the trust bearing forward.

If, however, you cannot do that all is not lost.You can either replace or modify the guides so that they do not damage the blade. If they are traditional blocks you can simply replace them with wooden ones. The blocks will support the body of the blade, but the teeth will not be damaged by the block.

If the machine has guide bearings ( that's what my Scheppach has) simply stick a disk of thin (2mm) MDF using DS tape, and close the guides up (not clamped hard, but touching). The teeth will cut their own way, but only so far, so that the blade remains supported.

It's an easy and effective fix.
S

 

[Kev]

Sorry guys have not been around for a week or so, just wanted to thank you for the really helpful advice which helped immensely to sort it and working liking a dream.

Kev