Bandsaw Advice Needed

[Mike.C]

Obviously the fence on a normal bandsaw is not high enough if you need to resaw or cut veneers getting close to 10" or 12" tall, so what do you guys use to extend your fences and how do you attach it to your standard fence, or do you make a separate fence completely? If so do you have any links?

Is it worth getting a desktop/office type light for a bandsaw? If so do they make lights specially for bandsaws, and if they don't how do you attach your desktop light?

How do you keep you spare blades from going rusty while not in use?

Cheers

Mike

 

[dickm]

I use a wooden lash-up point fence which is clamped to the table of the saw. Works fine for limited use. Somewhere, I've seen a design for something similar, but using a stack of small ball races, which would probably be better.

As for the rust, I can only suggest moving to a warm, dry place. That is, NOT Scotland

 

[Mike.C]

I use a wooden lash-up point fence which is clamped to the table of the saw. Works fine for limited use. Somewhere, I've seen a design for something similar, but using a stack of small ball races, which would probably be better.

As for the rust, I can only suggest moving to a warm, dry place. That is, NOT Scotland

Oh that's very nice Dick, trying to get rid of me :lol:

Cheers

Mike

 

[Mike.C]

Come on guys someone must have a link for a decent resaw/veneering type fence :wink:

Cheers

Mike

 

[cambournepete]

Come on guys someone must have a link for a decent resaw/veneering type fence :wink:

Cheers

Mike

There's always this Kreg resaw guide to fit on the Kreg bandsaw fence.
Never tried them myself though.

I bet Steve Maskery does something on his DVDs, but I've not seen any of them.

 

[mailee]

I am sure I have seen one on this site Mike, lots of jigs on here to build.
http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/reso ... hp?cat=113

 

[Benchwayze]

Mike,

My fence has two screw holes, for attaching a true and flat 'sub-fence'. just a 1/4" deeper than the metal fence. I keep that one in place. For re-sawing I remove the sub-fence and replace with a fence that is also flat and true and the same depth as the timber I am re-sawing. (up to 8" in my case). As long as it's firmly in place and upright You won't need anything more.

What's most important is to tend to the tracking of the blade so the cut doesn't wander.

I am sure you know how to do that, but just in case, I am also sure Steve would cover it in his Bandsaw DVD.

Definitely worth getting some kind of angle-poise light for the saw. Mine is fixed to a rafter near the saw.
HTH
John

 

[OPJ]

I seem to remember Marc Spagnuolo (The Wood Whisperer) making a tall resaw fence from 18mm ply, a couple of years ago (there'll be a video of it, somewhere). It was independent of the main fence; simply G-clamped to the table at both ends. Obviously, that makes it trickier to adjust the fence of 'blade drift' (very important when resawing!) and, each time you want to adjust the width of cut, you'll face the same problem again.

I can't remember what Marc did now but, you could always line it up with the correct drift angle, clamp it in place and then fix a strip of timber underneath, which would run against the front edge of the table and at least help you to keep the fence at that same angle. :wink:

 

[Mike.C]

Many thanks for taking the time to reply guys, that's a few idea's to be going on with. :wink:

Cheers

Mike

 

[dickm]

Interesting that folks use tall fences attached to an existing fence. I'd be worried doing that that the fence might drift out from vertical (parallel to the blade) unless the existing fence was attached to its guide bar sufficiently rigidly to prevent twisting. On the 352, the fence clamp is open on the underside, so it relies on the tightness of the fixing mech to hold it vertical.
Hence my preference for using a point fence, which is clamped to the table and so can't tilt relative to the blade. I find that the point fence also allows me to compensate for any blade lead (which can even develop while cutting sometimes). It does mean that adjustment for thickness is more difficult than with the normal fence, though.

 

[Benchwayze]

Yes Dick,

I have seen Frank Klausz using another piece of timber as a point fence, held on edge with the left hand, while he advanced the timber 'freehand' through the cut with his right hand.

I suppose if your bandsaw is set up properly, and you have a steady hand that would be the quickest and easiest way to do it!

But I have had no problems with my 351, using a supplementary fence. It's a great way of spreading out a nice piece of timber around a job.

In fact, reading Krenov on 'Real Veneer' was the instigator for my buying the bandsaw in the first place!

John

 

[dickm]

I have seen Frank Klausz using another piece of timber as a point fence, held on edge with the left hand, while he advanced the timber 'freehand' through the cut with his right hand.

I suppose if your bandsaw is set up properly, and you have a steady hand that would be the quickest and easiest way to do it!

Since I suspect neither of these applies to my situation, I prefer the timber point fence clamped down firmly
(There speaks a man with a bandaged thumb from his last encounter with a sharp edge )

 

[Benchwayze]

Me too Dick!