band saw

[Paul.V]

i have found this

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/77322/Pow ... 0V#reviews

i have read that if you buy a cheap band saw, first thing you do is change the blade, which will improve the quality of cut.

any comments on the brand ?

The reviews on the site are one good and one bad, good says changed blade and all was well, bad didnt say if they had changed the blade and complained about the quality of cut.

what you think?

edit: it also has a cast iron table, almost everything i have read says that that is the best

--
Paul

 

[neilyweely]

You postwas caught by the gadget which filters spam, I think.

The basato 1 is a good bandsaw, CI is the way to go, and a new, quality blade will certainly improve things. However I myself waited till I could affford a larger model.

If i only ever needed a small BS that'd be it. There are folk round these ways who will advise you better than I, so give it a while!!

And welcome.

Neil

 

[DaveL]

Hi Paul,

Welcome to the forum.

Neil is correct, your link has been caught bt our spam tram, it will leave you alone when you have a few more posts, here is the link:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/77322/Pow ... 0V#reviews

 

[Paul.V]

thanks, post looks normal again now.

silly question time

neilyweely, what is CI

 

[DaveL]

what is CI

Cast Iron, the heavy metal that old machines were made from, that manufacturers have just rediscovered.

 

[CroppyBoy1798]

i have found this

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/77322/Pow ... 0V#reviews

i have read that if you buy a cheap band saw, first thing you do is change the blade, which will improve the quality of cut.

any comments on the brand ?

The reviews on the site are one good and one bad, good says changed blade and all was well, bad didnt say if they had changed the blade and complained about the quality of cut.

what you think?

edit: it also has a cast iron table, almost everything i have read says that that is the best

--
Paul

True! Now, I dont have that particular bandsaw, but I did get one of the Aldi ones , so it cant be any better than what you posted. When I got it first and used it it was rubbish! Really, couldnt cut a straight line if it tried!! I did everything, correct tension, adjusted the bearing etc etc, nothing, hopeless, lost cause, the saw ended up sitting, unused in the workshop.

Then, a few months back I was getting stuff from Rutlands and said I'd try a new blade for the sake of a few bob. So, got the new blade, popped it in and.............wow! It cuts amazing now! It can handle 4" oak! Can cut perfect, wafer thin strips when using the fence and give lovely clean, straight cuts when cutting joints! Best few euro's I ever spent!

 

[Paul.V]

Thanks,

The SWMBO is ordering it tomorrow for me for my birthday

now, which blade would be best ?

according to their site, it has a 58 1/2 in blade.

--
Paul

 

[OPJ]

Paul, 58½" would be the blade length. If you're looking to buy some new blades then you'll need to consider blade width and tooth pitch (number of teeth per inch). There's also tooth pattern, although that's only really necessary when you're looking to buy a blade for ripping timber.

What sort of work are you planning to do with your new saw? 3/8" x 6tpi blades are generally a good compromise for most bandsaw work. Probably a bit fine for ripping and you may still want a narrower blade for tighter radii.

 

[Paul.V]

Paul, 58½" would be the blade length. If you're looking to buy some new blades then you'll need to consider blade width and tooth pitch (number of teeth per inch). There's also tooth pattern, although that's only really necessary when you're looking to buy a blade for ripping timber.

What sort of work are you planning to do with your new saw? 3/8" x 6tpi blades are generally a good compromise for most bandsaw work. Probably a bit fine for ripping and you may still want a narrower blade for tighter radii.

yup i couldnt get the keyboard to write the 1/2 like yours above. how did you do that?

i would imagine that i will be using it for ripping short lengths to size, i.e. buy big boards and then cut them to the width i need. Would this make my table saw redundant? would save some space then

--
Paul

 

[Paul.V]

I have it, all setup

blade on it is terrible. anthing thicker than about 1" the blade bends

any recommendations on blade make/brand ?

whats a good price for a blade ? (i.e. good quality one)

 

[Paul.V]

I've been searching for a blade, 58.5" but cant find one.

i have found 56.5",57" then 59" but no 58.5"

is that an odd size ?

screwfix, where i got the bandsaw, dont seem to do the blades either.

 

[harryc]

Try this

http://www.mtmc.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID=18294

Harry

 

[Paul.V]

thanks.

just ordered a 4tpi and a 14tpi (3mm)

 

[Paul.V]

new blade installed.

i needed to cut down some 3x2.

it does cut it better, however it does get stuck, i.e. the blade stops.

is this because i havent set it up right ? tensioner guides etc

or just pushing too fast, as if i slow down it does cut it ok.

 

[DaveL]

it does cut it better, however it does get stuck, i.e. the blade stops.

So when the blades stops, can you tell if the motor has stalled or is something in the drive train slipping?

 

[OPJ]

yup i couldnt get the keyboard to write the 1/2 like yours above. how did you do that?

i would imagine that i will be using it for ripping short lengths to size, i.e. buy big boards and then cut them to the width i need. Would this make my table saw redundant? would save some space then

Sorry, I missed this post before.

It's easy really - hold ALT and press 0189. Typing 0179 will give you ³ as well. You can work the rest out from there. :wink:

Yes, I do believe you can get away without a table saw in a small workshop. Most of the timber I rip ends up going through a planer/thicknesser so, the finished cut isn't important at that stage. Larger sheets can be tackled with a hand-held circular saw. Anything too small for that can usually be planed by hand or routered, if you need good edges.

From your problem with the blade stalling, it sounds as though you may not have enough tension on the drive belt - try cranking it up a bit and see if that improves things. Never force any blade or cutter; let it do its job at its own pace.

 

[Tom K]

So thats how its done eh! A quick google found this page of handy tips

http://www.pcdon.com/page3.html

 

[Alie Barnes]

today i bought a 12" SIP band saw 2nd hand but never been used, it still has the original blade on it and peple have said its best to change the factory supplied blade, what should i change it too?

i dont have the manual so i dont know what belt size it is.

thanks

 

[OPJ]

Alie, I have the same saw (01486) and order my blades to be cut to 2235mm long. In the manual, they advise 2240mm but, by having them 5mm shorter, you don't have to crank the tension up as much and save wear on the thread and tensioning mechanism. :wink:

I used to happily recommend Dragon Saws until they ran in to financial trouble. I'm not sure where I'll go next, although I would probably consider Trucut (Ross-on-Wye) and Hamilton Edge (no website?) in Gwent.

There's bound to be somewhere even closer to home for you - might be worth checking the Yellow Pages for a local 'saw doctor' or similar.

 

[Alie Barnes]

what width/size of blade is best? im totally new to this and without the manual i dont know what sizes to go for?

thanks