Band Saw & Planer/Thicknesser for hobbyist

[yan89]

Evening all

Just been looking at picking up a band saw and planer/thicknesser.

Starting with the P/T, space for big machines is a bit of a problem with me working out of the garage (which is also a gym) so I've been looking at lunchbox style units, or smaller ones at least, especially seeing as I'm just starting out. That way I can put them away under the bench when I'm not using them. The one I've been learning toward is the Makita 2012NB, which I can get for £550 ish, or the Dewalt 735x (if I can get one in the UK) or DW 733 failing that..

Anyone got any opinion they fancy sharing on any of those machines? I know there's the DW1150 jointer or a KITY 636 combi if I go for bigger units, but the cost and the space they take up would put me off, at least until I know i'll use them enough to warrant their inclusion in my set up.

With the band saw, I've not looked at all as yet, barring a cursory glace at potential prices. I'm wanting to really get to grips with box making to begin with, and will be using it to rip boards down for that purpose initially. ANY suggestions on this front would be welcome, even if the opinion here is that I actually find a smaller table saw rather than a bandsaw (table saw presumably being more versatile than the bandsaw?). The reason I was thinking the band saw was again the footprint - in my mind's eye at least, bandsaws take up less space than table saws. Is this correct?

Any help appreciated

Ian

 

[rogxwhit]

A bandsaw does tend to have a smaller footprint, but the overriding footprint that matters is that of the passage of work through the machine. If you want to rip a 3m length, then you need at least 3m in front & 3m behind ... although you might use open doors / windows. If you were to use a sawbench for crosscutting, then you also need free space at 90 deg to the left.

Trouble with a thicknesser is that natively it only thicknesses - thickness a twisted piece & it'll come out still twisted - though for smallish work you can devise a sturdy carrier that'll feed through straight.

 

[yan89]

A bandsaw does tend to have a smaller footprint, but the overriding footprint that matters is that of the passage of work through the machine. If you want to rip a 3m length, then you need at least 3m in front & 3m behind ... although you might use open doors / windows. If you were to use a sawbench for crosscutting, then you also need free space at 90 deg to the left.

Trouble with a thicknesser is that natively it only thicknesses - thickness a twisted piece & it'll come out still twisted - though for smallish work you can devise a sturdy carrier that'll feed through straight.

Noted, and good points to consider.

I assumed I'd check for twist and fix this with handplanes prior to running through a machine - would this be acceptable?

 

[Woodypk]

Ian,

I’d say that using hand tools to plane a board before thicknessing almost negates the point of having the machines that do the work for you.

Where abouts are you in your woodworking journey? Have you owned or had any of these machines before or will this be your first time owning such machines?

When I first started, I started with a screwfix special titan planer/thicknesser and a titan bandsaw. These did me while I really learned why I needed the machines that I did as time went by. The smaller machines are not expensive to buy and they take up not much room at all.

I stood my screwfix PT on a fold out step stool, a bit like the ones plasterers use and I used this until I needed something better.

I would go for a combined PT every time over the other options if you’re just starting out.

For the bandsaw, it really depends on what sort of work you’re going to be using it for. Even the bigger saws don’t take up that much more than a smaller saw as most of the size of a bandsaw is in its height (obviously). I currently have a Record Sabre 350 with a tuffsaws (the best value blades you can buy IMO) and when set up correctly - which there are many books and videos on YouTube on - it’s a really brilliant saw.

As for table saws, I would say that the table saw is my most used tool along with my dust extraction and my PT. I have a big standard Bosch contractor/worksite table saw that I’ve built into its own work/assembly bench.

Good luck with your shopping, have fun and be safe!

Tom

 

[Lorenzl]

fix this with handplanes prior to running through a machine

I started to write instructions but check out this video: Twisted board fix

I have a chipboard shelf ~20mm thick and 1.2m long which is melamine faced

 

[Jameshow]

For a compact table saw you won't go far wrong with this one and you can always sell it on afterwards, better and more compact than the titan ones.

https://tools4trade.co.uk/products/...5S6vXsI2ahuicFLK98-nj66FPiwQB84waAkxnEALw_wcB

 

[rogxwhit]

I assumed I'd check for twist and fix this with handplanes prior to running through a machine - would this be acceptable?

That's known as a hybrid workflow .... ;-)

You could make a carrier board with a stop at the leading end, and level each board to be planed upon it in turn (pack with wedges etc) and feed through to surface (produce a flat face). A possible failing might be the packings dislodging part way through. I've never done it. There will be a sensible size limit because of the extra bulk and weight.

If you need to produce a square edge too, that's another matter ...

 

[yan89]

Ian,

I’d say that using hand tools to plane a board before thicknessing almost negates the point of having the machines that do the work for you.

Where abouts are you in your woodworking journey? Have you owned or had any of these machines before or will this be your first time owning such machines?

When I first started, I started with a screwfix special titan planer/thicknesser and a titan bandsaw. These did me while I really learned why I needed the machines that I did as time went by. The smaller machines are not expensive to buy and they take up not much room at all.

I stood my screwfix PT on a fold out step stool, a bit like the ones plasterers use and I used this until I needed something better.

I would go for a combined PT every time over the other options if you’re just starting out.

For the bandsaw, it really depends on what sort of work you’re going to be using it for. Even the bigger saws don’t take up that much more than a smaller saw as most of the size of a bandsaw is in its height (obviously). I currently have a Record Sabre 350 with a tuffsaws (the best value blades you can buy IMO) and when set up correctly - which there are many books and videos on YouTube on - it’s a really brilliant saw.

As for table saws, I would say that the table saw is my most used tool along with my dust extraction and my PT. I have a big standard Bosch contractor/worksite table saw that I’ve built into its own work/assembly bench.

Good luck with your shopping, have fun and be safe!

Tom

Hi tom

Thanks for the detailed reply.

I’m just starting out - did a woodworking course locally and have a number of tools but definitely a novice. I’ve not owned any of the machines before, and have only used a table saw of the 3 machines I mentioned.

That’s essentially where I’m at and it sounds as though you took a similar approach to me with scoping out the first bits of kit you bought. Thanks again!

 

[Droogs]

There's a complete Kitty combo in one of the BPI or Bidspotter auctions that end in the next few days. The price so far is pretty low and it looks to be in good nick, that may do you

 

[Woodypk]

Another thing I would add is that although I buy my timber in lengths of 10-12ft, I don’t think I’ve ever had the need to plane and thickness a full length board since I’ve owned a planer thicknesser. So depending on what it is specifically you like to make and how you design your workflow, its not always necessary to have the length of your timber behind and Infront of your machine, but it is, as said, a good thing to bear in mind.

In fact I saw a video not so long ago where a guy had one of the bench top thicknessers and he wanted to thickness the whole length of a beam. So what he did was feed the thicknesser onto the end of the beam and the timber stayed still and the thicknesser used the feed rollers to pull its self along while thicknessing. It was quite amusing to watch actually. I don’t necessarily recommend this but it just goes to show that there are ways about completing just about any job if you want to do it bad enough even if you don’t have the ‘right’ equipment or space.

I’ll see if I can find the video…

 

[TRITON]

If you ever come across one of these. Do not hesitate - buy it.
The best thicknesser Ive ever used. A friends workshop has been using one primarily with oak for the last 25 years, and its still performing admirably.


Axminster 15". Jet do a version too that might be easier to find. In reality it does about 15 1/2".

 

[Molynoox]

For a compact table saw you won't go far wrong with this one and you can always sell it on afterwards, better and more compact than the titan ones.

https://tools4trade.co.uk/products/...5S6vXsI2ahuicFLK98-nj66FPiwQB84waAkxnEALw_wcB

That looks pretty good for the money

 

[yan89]

Another thing I would add is that although I buy my timber in lengths of 10-12ft, I don’t think I’ve ever had the need to plane and thickness a full length board since I’ve owned a planer thicknesser. So depending on what it is specifically you like to make and how you design your workflow, its not always necessary to have the length of your timber behind and Infront of your machine, but it is, as said, a good thing to bear in mind.

In fact I saw a video not so long ago where a guy had one of the bench top thicknessers and he wanted to thickness the whole length of a beam. So what he did was feed the thicknesser onto the end of the beam and the timber stayed still and the thicknesser used the feed rollers to pull its self along while thicknessing. It was quite amusing to watch actually. I don’t necessarily recommend this but it just goes to show that there are ways about completing just about any job if you want to do it bad enough even if you don’t have the ‘right’ equipment or space.

I’ll see if I can find the video…

Yeah, I was thinking about this a little earlier - mainly box work, stools etc.. Nothing over 4 feet I doubt, so doesn't need to be too bulky. Circumstance might change, but in that situation, I would likely change my kit to match.

When you said earlier combined PTs were what you'd go with for someone starting out, were any of those models I mentioned in my first post the type of thing you were referring to? Or would you just go for an entry level one like this?

From what you said earlier, I assume the table saw will likely be the better investment to begin with.

Thanks

 

[yan89]

For a compact table saw you won't go far wrong with this one and you can always sell it on afterwards, better and more compact than the titan ones.

https://tools4trade.co.uk/products/...5S6vXsI2ahuicFLK98-nj66FPiwQB84waAkxnEALw_wcB

I just watched the unboxing video for this - looks really good value for money. Thanks a lot!

 

[TRITON]

Extreme wants aside. Perhaps you should lok for something like a record power/de walt/ elektra beckum 10"x6" planer/thicknesser.
Not huge or extremely heavy(about 1100mm long, 80kg) but some of these small ones Titan etc are really small and you might be disappointed seeing it in the flesh.

 

[yan89]

Extreme wants aside. Perhaps you should lok for something like a record power/de walt/ elektra beckum 10"x6" planer/thicknesser.
Not huge or extremely heavy(about 1100mm long, 80kg) but some of these small ones Titan etc are really small and you might be disappointed seeing it in the flesh.

Noted - will keep my eye out for the Axminster 15" too!

 

[Ttrees]

How about a decent bandsaw and forget the rest.
Well for fine boxes, or making veneers it may make sense.
That and a good length of a bench would serve you well,
some hand planes can clean up some saw marks easy.

You could get a three phase bandsaw with a dual voltage motor and run it from household plug compared to
something single phase, (it's the startup of single phase motors which will trip the switch)
something large enough will have passive dust extraction to get you by, if mostly doing hand work.
It would work out at around the same cost as something consumable, or two junk machines with those never know when it's gonna $h1t the bed, universal brushed motors.
Say about 6 or 700 quid would likely get you something which you'd like, if you can fit that Socomec on the bay for under 500 quid buy it now, then a no brainer if not too far.
see the other bandsaw thread with apt title.
That's if making refined stuff...

For less refined stuff, say if making strawberry boxes,
then the tablesaw will be a better investment,
but the dust will kill ya without a decent extraction setup, and your shed gym will be very dusty without at least getting a sparkie in to upgrade if necessary.
Same deal with a PT if making strawberry boxes or the likes
you will need to clear the chips.

I wouldn't be too eager to use a tablesaw without a good setup for planing the timber,
and I wouldn't want to be so close to the blades, even if they're much smaller than my 3 phase 12" tablesaw also running from a hundred quid VFD.

Likewise for the cheap PT's
I think I have a screenshot of one of these tipping over, but being stopped by someone's hand.
The machine was just sitting on a table, perhaps some screws became unfastened somehow,
but the machine was pushed off the table whilst feeding the stock through and that's when it happened.
So a recipe for disaster all round in my view, well at least anything with a universal motor, as it's not worth investing time into something which might not last so long.

All the best
Tom

 

[danst96]

I think you'll find a good kity p/t will come in less than buying two new Chinese made products or the same amount of money. Id lean that way personally

 

[Terry - Somerset]

Much depends on what you want to do.

A bandsaw can resaw boards along the grain - the depth only limited by the capacity of the bandsaw but probably 125-200mm for a small/medium size. Cutting boards is more limited due to the size of the throat - I use a track saw if needed.

A small table saw probably has ~80mm depth of cut but much better for boards. Footprint will be much larger if space is a constraint.

A small planer/thicknesser may worth considering but the thicknesser will probably have a limited capacity (8-10" width) whereas a lunchbox will probably be ~12". As others have noted there are workarounds for twisted boards. I use a lunchbox + a small 6" planer to get the edges square.

General bit of advice based on my own experience. Used kit can be very good value but you need to have some understanding of what you are buying and what to look for, and how to fix it.

Otherwise buy new well regarded brands (eg: Axminster, Record, De Walt etc) - you will have some recourse to the seller if there is a problem, spares back up, and some resale value if in a few years you want to upgrade as your use evolves.

 

[Chris70]

There's a complete Kitty combo in one of the BPI or Bidspotter auctions that end in the next few days. The price so far is pretty low and it looks to be in good nick, that may do you

Thanks for the heads up on BPI Auctions. I'd never heard of them. Just registered. Looks professional, a good website and could be miles better than eBay? Checking it out now