Band Saw or Table Saw for the following...

[Meng95]

Hi All,

I just wanted to ask for advice on a band saw vs table saw for the following:

• 35 x 30 x 125mm blanks
• Cut from anywhere up to 70-80mm thick blocks
• Potentially book matching pieces (50mm high)

Some considerations to take into account: space is a premium cost can be up to £400/500 preferably "all in", not missing any little extras I may need out.

If I am to go budget i.e < £200 is a cheaper table saw better than a cheaper bandsaw? How do they compare?

Hope I can get some good advice,

Cheers in advance.

Blanks I cut are for knife handle blanks similar to below and produce WA style handles like the picture below that:

 

[Trigs]

Band saw for me, as big as you can afford. Safer, less mess, more versatile, can cut all the things you listed. However be prepared for a little more clean up with a hand plane. I use both but if I could only have one, I'd take a bandsaw

 

[Beanwood]

I'd be going for something like the BS300e with dust extractor in the for sale section £400 - with some cash left over for a selection of new blades from Tuff Saws.
Table saws will have limited depth of cut - not so much with a bandsaw.
I love my table saw- but with a really sharp blade, my cheap bandsaw is a wonderful tool.
If I could only have one - it would be a bandsaw (And a tracksaw :lol: )

 

[sunnybob]

Bandsaw final answer =D>

Cutting stuff that small on a table saw is risky in the extreme. On a bandsaw its simple and safe with a minimum use of push sticks.
Dont get bamboozeld into wide blades, I can cut extremely hard woods to pretty close tolerances with 1/4" and even 3/16" blades.

 

[sunnybob]

Where do you get your steel blanks from? I have been working my way up to making a few knives, mainly larger bowie style.

Much as they look good, bubinga blades are not the sturdiest. :roll: 8)

 

[Andy Kev.]

If you only want to cut tiny stuff, the Proxxon bandsaw might do for you. Axminster stock it but you can get it cheaper if you shop around. I've not used it but the Proxxon kit I do have is of high quality.

 

[Meng95]

I'd be going for something like the BS300e with dust extractor in the for sale section £400 - with some cash left over for a selection of new blades from Tuff Saws.
Table saws will have limited depth of cut - not so much with a bandsaw.
I love my table saw- but with a really sharp blade, my cheap bandsaw is a wonderful tool.
If I could only have one - it would be a bandsaw (And a tracksaw :lol: )

I had enquired, its a bargain too really. Just currently don't have space. I was tempted to get a tablesaw I can store more easily and give up on the bandsaw but i think i will just wait till I have space (will be moving post lockdown)

 

[Meng95]

Where do you get your steel blanks from? I have been working my way up to making a few knives, mainly larger bowie style.

Much as they look good, bubinga blades are not the sturdiest. :roll: 8)

I get my steel from Groundflatstock or Barmond Special Steels.

I cut out designs with an angle grinder and take them to the belt sander to finish.

 

[Meng95]

Bandsaw final answer =D>

Cutting stuff that small on a table saw is risky in the extreme. On a bandsaw its simple and safe with a minimum use of push sticks.
Dont get bamboozeld into wide blades, I can cut extremely hard woods to pretty close tolerances with 1/4" and even 3/16" blades.

I would only need to make straight cuts. Is it the wider the blade the better for straight cutting only?

Is it relatively easy to square something up on the bandsaw?

 

[sunnybob]

Bandsaws can be made to do very fine work, but to be honest, most hobby models dont work well out of the box. They have a learning curve where you have to practice on scrap and adjust everything to get it running right.
Once you get to that stage, yes, you can do much more than you would think.
Theres millions of pages of advice on them, mostly contradicting each other :roll: :lol: .

My advice is to not buy too big a blade. Each machine will come with a maximum capablity size. Thats advertisers optimism. Use one size down at the most.
I dont use anything over a 1/2"on my 350 and my most used blade is 3/16".
You wont get a finished cut. You will still need to sand, but for what you want, a bandsaw without doubt is the way to go.

Once youve shaped the knife blades do you heat treat?

 

[Meng95]

Once youve shaped the knife blades do you heat treat?

Perfect, thanks for the advice.

Yes, I have a propane forge and heat treat in there. Heat till non magnetic, soak for 10 mins and quench in oil. Then temper in a mini oven (not in your kitchen if you can, it smells).

Spoke to a local maker (very lucky as there aren't many) and he is going to heat treat in his kiln for more which offers far greater control and results.

 

[sunnybob]

"soak for 10 minutes" ????? :shock:
in what?
I cant justify a forge for a trial run, but I have a mapp blow torch which I have seen people just temper the cutting edge with.

This guy is about 40 kms from me, I have spoken to him about his knives. Its greek so if you cant google translate just click on a tab. One of them shows how he makes the knife from car leaf springs
https://gthandmadeknives.wixsite.com/gt ... r-products

 

[Meng95]

"soak for 10 minutes" ????? :shock:
in what?
I cant justify a forge for a trial run, but I have a mapp blow torch which I have seen people just temper the cutting edge with.

This guy is about 40 kms from me, I have spoken to him about his knives. Its greek so if you cant google translate just click on a tab. One of them shows how he makes the knife from car leaf springs
https://gthandmadeknives.wixsite.com/gt ... r-products

Soak is just a term for keeping the temperature at that heat. So heat to cherry red and soak for 10 minutes means not letting it getting any hotter than cherry red. With a forge that is very difficult in my experience.

Differential heat treating with a torch can be done sure, I've seen it. Never tried it