Axminsters Spindle Moulder Training Day Any Opinions?

[PAC1]

As PAC1 says, " Cut on the Table saw with the blade tilted and then plane up "
I think this would involve removing the Crown guard? I know.... might only involve removing guard once or twice but then accidents only need to happen once or twice, for a serious injury to happen. So I wouldn't remove the guard.

The planer, I think I might have a go at that, not that slow, what 1mm, 2mm each pass, lighter on the final cut, clean up planer ripple with a hand plane?

Not always, but it is permissible as long as you form an effective guard and work holding device by other means such as shaw guard or a tunnel that prevents your hands getting near or the wood taking flight. I have a sliding table and my saw tilts to the right so I can clamp the cill to the slider and push the slider so that my hands are no where near the cill. I stand to the left. All I then need is a guard to cover over the exposed saw blade, which I can attach to my standard fence. At the moment it is the best and safest technique I have worked out. Obviously as soon as you have finished you put the crown guard back.
On the planer you may be able to start with larger cuts and then as the width of the slope increases reduce the depth of cut. So my first cut might be 3mm and the last less than 1mm. The problem on the planer is supporting the cill to ensure you feed at the correct angle and it is difficult to keep the blade guard properly set. A jig in the Thicknesser is probably the safest. The downside is you cannot make rebated cills this way

 

[Steve Maskery]

As PAC1 says, " Cut on the Table saw with the blade tilted and then plane up "
I think this would involve removing the Crown guard? I know.... might only involve removing guard once or twice but then accidents only need to happen once or twice, for a serious injury to happen. So I wouldn't remove the guard.

If your blade is big enough you don't need to remove the guard at all. However, for a big cill you might find that you don't have enough depth of cut, even with the guard removed.

There is nothing wrong with removing the crown guard, provided that you replace it with some just as effective.

The planer, I think I might have a go at that, not that slow, what 1mm, 2mm each pass, lighter on the final cut, clean up planer ripple with a hand plane?

That would work well, if a little slow (as I've explained in your other thread).
Personally I think that your best bet is to cut it on the bandsaw and then plane up by hand. Provided that your BS is well-tuned, it will be a quick and effective solution.

 

[PAC1]

This is the 80mm block in my spindle. With it wound down as low as possible I've still got around 18mm sticking up. If you've got another smaller rebate block I guess it won't be an issue. Just switch between each one.

Coley

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" Just switch between each one. " I don't follow???
The rebating cill size your using, I'm looking at 24mm glazing units, would 24mm change anything?
Update, on fitting the power feed mount to the table. I asked on a metal working forum. As I'm not a metal worker and to avoid finding that out , the hard way, by trying to drill, tap holes myself. Those in the know, suggested having a metal plate made up, drilled and countersunk for flat head screws to bolt to the existing holes in the table and with drilled and tapped holes for the new mount in it. I know a machinist who does little jobs for me so I'll contact him.

Rebating block, just checked the 30mm head thats in the machine, wound down the top of the head is 70mm below the bottom face of the table.......?
I bought an Axcaliber spindle cutting disc for the Aquamac 63 window seal best price I could find was £56 all in. Also best price, so far can find for an Axcaliber Aquamac 21 door seal router cutter is £40.34.
Cheers Coley

Be careful with this it is a a big exposed blade. Also check the distance from the tip to the spindle as if you are making frames for 57mm casements it might not reach the back of the rebate. I find the bearing guided router cutters a better choice

 

[ColeyS1]

Be careful with this it is a a big exposed blade. Also check the distance from the tip to the spindle as if you are making frames for 57mm casements it might not reach the back of the rebate. I find the bearing guided router cutters a better choice

I whole heartedly agree. Router cutter for doing windows seems much safer and more convenient.

Coley


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[ColeyS1]

" Just switch between each one. " I don't follow???

Use your small block for doing rebates that don't need to be very high. Use your big block for doing taller rebates.
Using the 80mm block, the minium height rebate I can do is 18mm high - it won't wind down anymore.

With regard to forming angles for the cill on a planer, that's fine, so longs you don't mind sticking bits of wood on after, to form a rebate.

Coley



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[pollys13]

If your blade is big enough you don't need to remove the guard at all. I have a 100mm depth of cut???


Personally I think that your best bet is to cut it on the bandsaw and then plane up by hand. Provided that your BS is well-tuned, it will be a quick and effective solution.[/quote]
So how would I do the cill using the bandsaw method?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Mount your rip fence to the RIGHT of the blade and tilt the table to 9 degrees. Then rip the bevel. The fence supports the workpiece and you are not fighting gravity, as you would be if the fence was still on the left.

 

[pollys13]

Mount your rip fence to the RIGHT of the blade and tilt the table to 9 degrees. Then rip the bevel. The fence supports the workpiece and you are not fighting gravity, as you would be if the fence was still on the left.

OK I'm with you.
Cheers.

 

[meccarroll]

You seem to be looking at a lot of work arounds here.

The simplest solution is to glue on a separate cill extension to your frame at the bottom of the window. It is what most of the professional manufacturers do.

Make your bottom frame as a normal section (jamb section) then put a 10mm groove in it at the height of the cill. Machine a separate cill section with a 10mm tong on and glue it to the frame, simple!

You don't need to buy any specialist tooling to do it this way, it saves on timber and is very easy to do. Using this method you can choose which machine you use to do the slope according to your preference so you are not restricted in any way.

Mark

 

[pollys13]

You seem to be looking at a lot of work arounds here.

The simplest solution is to glue on a separate cill extension to your frame at the bottom of the window. It is what most of the professional manufacturers do.

Make your bottom frame as a normal section (jamb section) then put a 10mm groove in it at the height of the cill. Machine a separate cill section with a 10mm tong on and glue it to the frame, simple!

You don't need to buy any specialist tooling to do it this way, it saves on timber and is very easy to do. Using this method you can choose which machine you use to do the slope according to your preference so you are not restricted in any way.

Mark

OK thanks, yonks ago I fished a window out of a skip to try and get an idea of how it was jointed. The cill was attached using the method you discribe, the window board was done the same way

 

[ComfortablyNumb]

Professionally you can't operate a spindle moulder legally unless you've received training. Every company Ive worked for you had to be signed of as competent to use machine even though I've got C&G in machine woodworking . Do the Axminster course and if you feel you want more training maybe do an evening course somewhere? Better to be safe than sorry

 

[pollys13]

Professionally you can't operate a spindle moulder legally unless you've received training. Every company Ive worked for you had to be signed of as competent to use machine even though I've got C&G in machine woodworking . Do the Axminster course and if you feel you want more training maybe do an evening course somewhere? Better to be safe than sorry

Thanks, Dalton, Wadkin do a certified day course, I have looked into stuff like evening classes but no joy.