Axminster TS200... Thoughts and help.

[8squared]

After looking for a new table saw with an extendable side/mitre gauge built in I was pleasantly surprised to find that Axminster have their own which upon seeing seemed to be ideal... However they didn't have one with the sliding mitre gauge in store .

I currently have a Clarke 10" but I very rarely use the full cutting depth of the blade, I usually buy my timber in the dimension I need occasionally I'll get a 2x4/2x6 of something...

So I'd be interested to hear from anyone that has one...

Did you regret not getting the slightly bigger 10" rather than this 8"

How do you find the sliding mitre gauge.


Could you provide photos and take a few measurements.



Thanks

 

[Eric The Viking]

I'm not sure about the 10" option: it would need a bigger motor ideally, because of the increased radius, so if it has one, fine. It depends what you do: it's argually better to stick with 8" to start with then to go for a different, bigger-table, bigger saw at a later date when you really know what you're after. The 8" one should be just as accurate as te 10" the only real difference is 1" more depth of cut (theoretically) and possibly slightly less torque on the 10" one (check the motor rating).

I have the Kity sliding table (I have both a Kity 419 and an old-style TS200 - many common parts). The Axy sliding table used to be identical. I don't know if Axy changed the detail when they updated the design of the saw recently, so take that into account.

The sliding table is nice to use for cross cutting and trimming panels. It's a right pain to set up accurately, and if you need to take it off, for example to move the saw, you have to align it all over again*.

But... it's too small for large pieces of sheet material (they are NOT proper panel saws!). It's too short for large pieces of sheet material (Kity used to do a 3m track option for their version for that reason). It needs a lot more space than just the saw, but it's space you need anyway for doing the cuts -- the difference is that it gets in the way when you're NOT using the saw.

I think, on balance, I'd probably find an outfeed table more useful for single-handed use than the sliding table. With an assistant looking after the outfeed, the sliding table is brilliant tho, and, as I said, for cross-cutting rails to length (using the stop on the fence).

One design flaw is that the accuracy depends on nylon-tyred rollers underneath the sliding table. I've had tyres split on these (to a C-shape, making them bump as they go along the track like a train going over joints in rails), Axminster carry spares and they're not expensive, but it is annoying. You also have to adjust the tightness when you replace them, and it's hard to know when they're just tight enough -- mine may have failed because a previous owner overtightened them. The hold-down clamp is pretty rubbish too, but that's no big deal.

On balance, I like having it available, and I think Axminster's package deal is good value. Bear in mind though that the stand designed to go with the saw doesn't have a very wide base. If you're going to cut really heavy or wide panels, AND if you're going to use that stand, you might think about bracing it to the left. I've never had mine tip, but it will if I lean on it (mine is on a roughly made trolley arrangement rather than that sort of stand, and not bolted down presently).
I do have the same stand under my planer/thicknesser though, and it is easy to tip up (I use roller stands with the p/t - you might find those ball-roller ones would be good for sheet stock on the saw, and unlike a p/t, the height will stay constant).

Can't make up your mind for you, but you could get a nice router for the difference in price if you omit the slide and make your own stand... just sayin'.

E.

The height adjustment is/should be a one-time operation, but you'll need to check parallelism each time you put the track back. That said, you could make a jig fairly easily to do this very quickly.

 

[sploo]

I've got one of the last of the version 1 TS200 saws (when they were on offer due to the introduction of the v2). The v2 does look to have a few worthwhile improvements, though the fence is still fairly poor.

I didn't get the sliding table (no space) but from playing with one in the store I think it'd be worth it if you had the room.

I've not found the small blade size to be a problem for most cutting, though I'd have gone for the larger TS250 if it weren't for the fact I was able to get the TS200 for a crazy low price. TBH The two biggest problems I find is that many high quality saw brands don't make blades that small (much easier to find 250mm blades) and that a Wixey angle gauge is too big (there isn't enough "body" in the blade to stick the gauge to the side for accurate angle measurement).

The mitre gauge that comes with the machine should go in the bin immediately - it's so sloppy it's not useless, it's actively dangerous with a table saw. Instead I built a cross cut sled to a Woodgears design (http://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/small_sled.html) it does require removing the blade guard, but I added a guard to the sled design.

 

[Eric The Viking]

TBH The two biggest problems I find is that many high quality saw brands don't make blades that small (much easier to find 250mm blades) and that a Wixey angle gauge is too big (there isn't enough "body" in the blade to stick the gauge to the side for accurate angle measurement).

The mitre gauge that comes with the machine should go in the bin immediately - it's so sloppy it's not useless, it's actively dangerous with a table saw. Instead I built a cross cut sled to a Woodgears design (http://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/small_sled.html) it does require removing the blade guard, but I added a guard to the sled design.

Jolly good points, both.

FWIW, I think the Mk1 TS200 is a better design than the Kity, unless you really want a non-ferrous tabletop (the Kity is some sort of anodised alloy). The main reason I bought a TS200 (in bits) after the Kity was that I actually wanted cast iron in preference.

E.

 

[sploo]

FWIW, I think the Mk1 TS200 is a better design than the Kity, unless you really want a non-ferrous tabletop (the Kity is some sort of anodised alloy). The main reason I bought a TS200 (in bits) after the Kity was that I actually wanted cast iron in preference.

E.

Yea, the cast iron top is a nice thing. Why oh why they don't cut standard size mitre slots on the table surface I'll never know, but otherwise it seems decent. Needs good care - Liberon lubricating wax and a cover keeps the rust off in my damp, draughty, shed.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Mine has flash rusted - need to sort it.

I think the track thing is that it would mean more complexity and depth to the casting and a bit more steel. It may mean that it's easier to get reasonably flat once skimmed, too. I vaguely remember there was a bad batch of them (TS200 tops, not Kity) a few years back that weren't very flat, but mine is good. For that matter, so is the Kity.

 

[8squared]

The key point in a table saw that I wanted was a sliding mitre gauge, so I looked at the Makita mlt100 and the Bosch 10xc it was only thanks to the salesman showing me the Axminster that I changed my mind.

I would prefer a cast iron top but not essential.

The key reason I'm choosing Axminster is the induction motor... Having a small workshed with two walls to echo the noise from the Clarke, the peace and quiet I would have has been a dream for sometime.

I do have one issue and that is space for the sliding mitre gauge, it seems to be a fairly substantial item that I don't have room for unless I remove it after each use but if this is going to need trusting up each time and is a few minutes to do then that leaves me to think I may be better building a sled on a t runner to help prevent it from tipping off the saw when extended...

And if I do go for that choice then I may well get the 10" version and right hand table extension.

 

[Rhossydd]

I do have one issue and that is space for the sliding mitre gauge, it seems to be a fairly substantial item that I don't have room for unless I remove it after each use

I think you may be getting your terms mixed up here. The sliding mitre gauge is the small part that slides in a slot in the table with an adjustable fence on it that can vary from 90 - 45 deg to the blade, it's really a very small item. As previously mentioned, the sliding mitre gauge isn't much use for accurate work.
The bulky option is known as a sliding table. This consists of a second, smaller cast iron table that rolls parallel to the blade with long fence on it, (http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ho ... -table-kit). The sliding table, once set up correctly is accurate and nice to use, but you'd need to realign it if you take it off. Not really something you can consider practically to be a remove and replace accessory.

To answer your original question; I haven't found the 200mm blade to be a problem for the sort of work I've done so far on it, but I do have a decent bandsaw for converting larger timber to final size.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I'd go with the smaller-saw-plus-bandsaw thing, as it's what I have and like. My bandsaw isn't huge (12" nominally), but it does do everything I need, including ripping. In fact I've had the tablesaw out of use for a while and got by with the bandsaw alone (but then I also have a Makita SP6000k track saw).

The track saw thing is really handy, as you can accurately break down sheet materials with it very efficiently, and it takes up very little space when it's not in use (cube-ish Systainer and a bag for the rails -- can store it anywhere). I cut tenons and rough mitres on the bandsaw.

Mitres aren't that easy as the table is too small to line up all but the smallest stock (say 2" thickness - the tail runner of the mitre gauge falls off the back of the table otherwise and it becomes inaccurate), but it will cross cut with good accuracy if properly set. I really like the slow, relatively safe cut too - you can 'creep up' on a tenon cheek, for example, and if something is springing apart or together during a rip cut, you can just stop and reconsider. And the cut can be very clean - a good Tuffsaws blade and careful setup - it's never going to be tablesaw quality, but for joints such as tenons and housing joints, it's often good enough without further work. I couldn't make jewellery boxes on it, but then I haven't really tried!

If it's out of alignment it just doesn't work very well - you might break a blade, which is a nasty surprise, but everything is pretty well guarded. You'd have to really abuse it for it to become dangerous (ALL blades are dangerous, obviously), and the ability to cut curves and freehand is really, really useful. In contrast, I'm nervous each time I use the TS, which is probably healthy, but not relaxing.

I guess I'm introducing a new variable to the conversation - sorry if that's unwanted, but, if I had to choose which to buy, either first or one of the two, it would be a bandsaw, without hesitation.

E.