Axminster SK114 chuck thread

[minilathe22]

I wonder if anyone with an Axminster SK114 chuck could take a look at the back for me and see whether it would be possible to bore a 2" thread in the body, or whether there is not enough material for that? The largest thread they offer is 1 1/2". I wonder if 2" would fit. I have attached a photo from the Axminster ebay store which I think shows a 3/4" thread. I have a lathe with an unusual 2" x 4.5TPI thread.

 

[paul-c]

hi mini lathe
would it not be better to have an adaptor made to go from your lathe thread to the chuck thread.
that is the common way of doing it and you can sell the chuck on if you wanted to , or get an extra chuck etc.
cheers paul

 

[minilathe22]

Yes I may well go with an adapter, I am still researching the options. I have a big adapter currently on it, but its only to a 1" 8tpi thread, I would prefer to be using a bigger thread.

 

[Hornbeam]

Have you considered taking the headstock spindle out and getting the thread remachined to a more common size like M33 X 3.3 or 11/2 inch by 6. Opens up lots more options on new and Sh chucks/faceplates etc

 

[minilathe22]

I think that could be the route to go down actually, get a more common thread on it and I could probably have a morse taper machined at the same time as its a solid spindle at the moment.

 

[Nick.]

Hi mini lathe - I'd say best to get spindle re-machined too, but contact Axminster if you want go down the direct machined chuck thread route at 2" - If you can try then try to speak to Mark (sorry can't remember his last name but he's been there years) who was head of engineering when I was there - clever guy who knows the score & they make these chucks in-house.

It may be possible they can set up a one off for your thread spec if there is enough material to do it? They would know.

Cheers, Nick

 

[minilathe22]

Hello Nick,

I have actually just heard from Mark, unfortunately the diameter of the spigot for the thread is 50mm, so a 2" thread would remove it completely!

I think machining the spindle is the way to go. I am thinking of changing it to an M33x3.5 and add a 3 morse taper, ideally with a 15mm hole bored all the way through for a knockout bar.

I was hoping to fit a handwheel on the outboard side, I wonder if I can still do that with a hollow bolt and a thread on the outboard side. I would probably purchase the chuck in advance so the thread can be made to match it well.

 

[Hornbeam]

Once you have gone down the spindle machining route it may be better just to get a complete new spindle made. That way you can also get the outboard end threaded to suit left handed for handwheel/outboard turning/disc sander set up etc.
Not sure if there is any benefit going to a No 3 MT over a No as again most drive centres seem to be No 2

 

[SVB]

Agree re m33x3.5. Increasingly the ‘go to’ size for larger wood turning lathes.

also I don’t see an advantage to MT3, indeed, will it fit in a M33 spindle without wall getting too thin?

 

[minilathe22]

The tailstock is MT3, I was thinking MT3 on the spindle just to make them the same. I think an MT3 would be quite thin at the end but not impossible, Union Graduate is 1.5" thread and has an MT3.

Perhaps I should consider MT2, for drilling in the tailstock I find MT2 arbours to spin with bigger forstner bits sometimes, but I am unlikely to be putting the headstock taper under heavy work.

I could also go with the Union Graduate 1.5" thread, as all my tools are already on that thread but the M33 feels more future proof.