Axminster mini lathe - hobby vs. trade

[finneyb]

Out of curiosity, is it possible to make multiple platters or bowls with normal straight tools?
I quite like the idea of making matching sets, like flat plate, soup platen and little dessert plate/bowl. But then, that's the kind of "yeah, and then I could do this, that and that" attitude of the clueless beginner watching turners with 30 years of experience effortlessly churning out little wonders on youtube

Well you could use a parting tool to cut out a cone from the centre of your bowl blank before starting conventional hollowing in order to save some of the wood. But it's not something I'd recommend from day one as there can be quite a lot of leverage on the tool as it'll be overhanging quite a long way from the toolrest near to the centre of the blank. You'd also need to widen the kerf of the cut so that the tool doesn't bind. It's not an easy cut to make safely.

HTH
Jon

The alternative is to buy roughed out bowls - they are sometimes available on ebay and in the US http://www.roughoutbowls.com/
I would never buy them - too tight - and that's before you even get to the postage.
I turn green wood and preferably free green wood.

Brian

 

[Robbo3]

McAldo, although here is nothing wrong with the questions that you are asking, with all due respect, you are trying to run before you can walk.

Your circumstances dictate that you need a small, easily moveable lathe. Nothing wrong with that, so go for it.

My local club in West Oxfordshire mount their Vicmark lathe on a workmate (trolley & two men needed to move) for both professional demonstrators & amateur turners without worrying about twist or it being perfectly level. In fact the amount of wobble is often commented on.

Try & attend a meeting at a local woodturning club. You will learn more there by watching & asking questions especially if they have a 'hands on' session aimed at beginners.

London is a large area & had you been a little more specific as to your location you may have more replies about clubs or tuition local to you.

HTH & above all, enjoy.

 

[McAldo]

I just wanted to say thanks to all of you for the wonderful advice and tips.
I should have done this earlier but got a bit lost in work and other things.
In the end, the temporary winner between hobby and trade is actually Bank of Scotland. I saw an opening to shift some credit, which will save me way over what I'll eventually spend on lathe and tools, but that required parting with a few grands, so had to postpone buying.

Unfortunately, no reply from the Croydon club, which is the closest to me (I live in Carshalton, Sutton area). I guess the person I tried to contact is on holiday or something, will try and contact someone else in the board.

But I found a very good post from CHJ about starting tools, so I guess I'll start getting the lathe and the tools and practise on some found wood I set the aside for the purpose.
Might go for some set covering what suggested:

• 3/4 or 1” Roughing Gouge
• 3/8” Spindle Gouge
• 1/2” Flat Skew Chisel
• 1/2” Round Nose Scraper
• 3/16” Diamond Parting Tool
• 3/8” Bowl Gouge (standard grind)

I see that most 'good' (expensive) sets on Axminster comes with a domed chisel (kind of Sorby spindle master shape), which looks attractive in video demonstration (finish on pine looks great) but seems to be regarded as limiting and a novelty tool by experienced turners on all forums.
So I'll try and get a flat chisel instead, and butcher wood until I manage to use it properly


Well, just wanted to again say thanks. It's quite amazing all the advice you get on this forum, much appreciated!

 

[chipmunk]

I think you may be confusing a round-nose scraper, which will be found in almost all conventional turning sets, with the Sorby spindlemaster which will not?

A round nose scraper has a rectangular profile and a ground bevel whereas I think the spindlemaster has a half-round profile and a polished bevel at a much sharper angle?

HTH
Jon

 

[McAldo]

I think you may be confusing a round-nose scraper, which will be found in almost all conventional turning sets, with the Sorby spindlemaster which will not?

A round nose scraper has a rectangular profile and a ground bevel whereas I think the spindlemaster has a half-round profile and a polished bevel at a much sharper angle?

HTH
Jon

Thanks Jon,

No, I think it's the skew they mean:
3/4" oval skew
http://www.axminster.co.uk/henry-taylor ... prod22370/

the cheapest sets have straight profile skews though, so I might go for those.
Crown cryo seems interesting too, but not being used to sharpening, perhaps I'd better go for a £70 set like axminster's own one
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... rod822073/
but again oval skew chisel :-k

Not sure.. Sorby's take on their spindle master is that it's easier than a straight skew and that it will give very good finish even on soft woods like pine.
But reading on the forums many people suggest a straight skew is actually more flexible, even if more difficult to learn. Which is also what my woodturning manual says, something like "Good for smooth curves but a straight chisel allows for much more"
I don't really have an opinion myself, just what I read.

 

[chipmunk]

Sorry I misunderstood.

The profile of skews is quite contentious. Round, oval, rectangular or rolled edge all have their fans and critics.

For what it's worth, my preference would be for round skews in small sizes (up to about 10mm) and rolled-edge in larger sizes. Oval skews can be more tricky to sharpen because they don't naturally sit on the grinder rest and I find that they can flex in-use in small sizes which isn't good.

HTH
Jon

 

[McAldo]

Thanks for the advice.
I understand the spindle master for instance can only be sharpened with a diamond stone ( or with some pretty expensive Sorby sharpening system if the bevel get damaged), perhaps it's the same with other oval ones too.. not sure..
Anyway, I'll stick to your advice and if I get any small skew I'll get a round one.