Attaching vice to fire door workbench

[alex robinson]

I have got myself an old record 53 vice so am finally ready to finish off the top of my workbench. It is an old solid core melamine faced fire door sat on top of a very sturdy chestnut frame that I made.

How would people go about attaching the vice? If I glue and screw a spacer block on from underneath, and used lag screws into the spacer to attach he vice would that be sufficiently strong? Alternatively as chipboard doesn't take screws well, would I be better off attaching the spacer with coach bolts through the top?

I am planning on putting a sacrificial layer of oil tempered hardboard onto the top, secured with carpet tape and a lip of chestnut round the edge, so holes in the top are not the end of the world.

 

[Andy's Shed]

I used a fire door for my workbench too, topped with 5mm ply. I glued a spacer to the underside and used coach bolts/lag screws for my Record 52 1/2 vice, it's rock solid.

 

[thetyreman]

I've not used a firedoor for a workbench but I am making a soundproof door for my studio and found that I needed to get threaded inserts, the wood inside was way too soft and didn't take screws well without stripping the wood inside.

 

[alex robinson]

I used a fire door for my workbench too, topped with 5mm ply. I glued a spacer to the underside and used coach bolts/lag screws for my Record 52 1/2 vice, it's rock solid.

Thanks - hat is good to hear. They seem great (if a bit ugly) for workbench tops as they are so solid and flat, but I was a bit worried about the vice dropping off under use! What glue did you use?

 

[Andy's Shed]

Thanks - hat is good to hear. They seem great (if a bit ugly) for workbench tops as they are so solid and flat, but I was a bit worried about the vice dropping off under use! What glue did you use?

Just regular wood glue, I forget the name now, bought from Screwfix.

The fire door is very heavy and it makes for a very stable bench.

 

[TheUnicorn]

I would personally be looking to bolt your vice in place, it is heavy and takes a lot of stress. If you are reluctant to have bolt heads getting in the way on your work surface is there any way you can give it support from the legs ?

 

[Ttrees]

Just going to say that, a big hefty bit of steel plate.
Since I have a similar counter top floating bench, albeit a bit more suiting to doing things the norm
I had an idea before to make up something which could be quickly mountable on four corners,.
in some sort of slotting system.
Might do someday yet due to versatility needs in cramped workshop, but needed a vice quickly as me other one was setup on the drill.

Another benefit of using the base to mount it to, is stopping the top sagging slightly over time.

Tom

 

[Orraloon]

Bolt right through. Countersink the bolt heads. Lag screws are fine for thicker tops bit a solid core door is not thick enough.
Regards
John

 

[TheUnicorn]

Bolt right through. Countersink the bolt heads. Lag screws are fine for thicker tops bit a solid core door is not thick enough.
Regards
John

is there enough wood to countersink into? I thought firedoors were essentially a thin skin (albeit toughened / fireproof) with a torsion box internally, if you countersink to take a big bolthead won't you just be making a hole into a void? Maybe i've misunderstood the make-up of a firedoor?

 

[Orraloon]

My understanding of a fire door is solid core. A hollow door would not be much good as a benchtop in any case.
Regards
John

 

[alex robinson]

is there enough wood to countersink into? I thought firedoors were essentially a thin skin (albeit toughened / fireproof) with a torsion box internally, if you countersink to take a big bolthead won't you just be making a hole into a void? Maybe i've misunderstood the make-up of a firedoor?

These are very much solid. I was amazed how much they weigh!

 

[alex robinson]

I would personally be looking to bolt your vice in place, it is heavy and takes a lot of stress. If you are reluctant to have bolt heads getting in the way on your work surface is there any way you can give it support from the legs ?

To be honest I don't really mind the bolt heads at the top. I was thinking of putting a piece of tempered hardboard over the surface so they will be hidden anyhow.

 

[Garden Shed Projects]

i would always bolt through using coach bolts, if you have concerns whether the chip board will take it then us hex head bolts with a washer. You will likely need to pack below as the back plate must be 4-6 inches high and will be held in place by the compression of the bolts so won't rely on the glue much.

 

[mondo]

I would use T-Nuts. You can counterbore the top with a Forstner bit so it sits flush.