Applying Shellac

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Derek Willis.":b24fwtl5 said:
I am so pleased to see a number of posts on the use of Shellac especially in the French Polish way.
I have been a long time user of thie finish and have passed on my knowledge and some tips to many people over the years, the most wonderful thing about using shellac, is that, you cannot make a mess of it, if you don't like the finish, go over it again.
I have just finished an old Oak table that had to be repaired and then sanded back, I stained it to match using Van **** Crystal Stain, then went through the full French Polishing bit and we have ended up with a beatiful table top that looks no different to the rest of the timber.
Derek.

When you say "passing on" does this imply courses or something less formal...?

Miles
 
I just don't get that bit about one coat fixing the bad undercoat? Even after leaving it more than 24hrs the finish was a bit sticky and the wet coat did nothing to fix it. The rubber dragged on the undercoat and the new topcoat is horrendous. I'm willing to try again but it's not as easy as it sounds.
 
Miles,
I have only passed on my knowledge in a friendly manner, with back-up when needed, this only in a local environment, I have been very pleased to let other people into my limited knowledge of the finishing in the hope that they may gain some of the knowledge and experience that I have enjoyed.
Derek.
 
Wizer,
What are you using? Are you using what is called pound cut shellac, that is, flakes diluted in Methylated Spirit according to the instructions on the packet.
If you are then you should have no problems at all, I cannot see how it is still wet the next day! it dries as you apply it.
If your rubber sticks then add a few spots of Raw Linseed Oil. this will enable you to carry on polishing.
In finishing, way back, soon after i joined, I put a piece on here about French Polishing, have you seen it? If you can't find it let me know and I will send it to you.
derek.
 
I am actually using Shellac Sanding Sealer as it was clearer than the 'Transparent' stuff from Toolstation.

Do the flakes get diluted in normal purple meths? Or is there something else I should use?

TBH this is just a small project for my daughter and I just want it done now, so Osmo will get me done and dusted and brownie points earned.
 
Wizer,
If you are using Shellac Sanding Sealer, then you will not get the results, Sanding Sealer has been diluted beyond the finishing state. (I make my own sanding sealer by diluting French Polish)
If you want to try again just for the effort, buy a small bottle of proprietory brand and go ahead, Button Polish is a good one.
Some say that you should use a special clear Methylated Spirit, but, I have always used the standard purple one myself, and I use Blonde De-Waxed Flakes.
derek.
 
The way I was taught wizer is the same as Derek, I'm going to try a grain filler on the writing slope, (if I ever get that far) as I've never it used it previously.
To me it's brush coat first, then flattening, then bring on the rubber. As for speed of drying, in warm weather if you don't keep the rubber moving you'll end up with it sticking it can dry so fast!

Roy.
 
Roy,
Under most circumstances you should not need to use a grain filler,(they are not easy anyhow), because Shellac has the ability to fill as it goes, you should never need to struggle with a rubber, at the least bit of resistance, use a few spots of Raw Linseed Oil on the rubber, then go back to applying shellac.
Derek.
 
Derek, interesting stuff!
Never used Shellac as a finish - now inspired \:D/ .

I have some shellac flakes (somewhere :-k ) also clear meths (don't ask why!).
So............. what proportions??
Does it "keep"
 
I'm only trying the filler out of interest Derek, I've never needed it in the past but I'm always open to trying things out. Recently I made up some very thick, almost paste like shellac to see if it would act as a gap filler for example.
What I meant with the rubber was 'keep it moving'. Stop to have a word with my grandson and the shellac's gone hard! :lol:

Roy.
 
I take it you have to use a brush in the corners?
 
wizer":1h4v2dz6 said:
Jim there's some useful info on shellac in this episode of the woodwhisperer.

Maybe but............... I can't view that from work (cybernanny).
Am 600 miles from home.
Until next Wednesday I'm inside a triple barbed wire fence patrolled by vicious dogs & heavily armed policemen.
 
Roy,
That's so very true, keep it moving, each time you stop you cause the surface to become like abrasive paper.
Lurker,
The usual reccomended proportions are 250grammes to 1ltr. of spirit, shake periodically, may take up to three days to properly disperse.
As I mentioned before, if anyone wants a run-down on how- to, then p.m. me and I will send on.
derek.
 
Yes wizer, same with mouldings. I was lucky Derek I was taught by a cabinet maker during my apprenticeship, and French polishing is like riding a bike, dead easy, once you know how! :lol:
I wish I was able to do it more often but the wife isn't keen on it as a finish, that's why I intend finishing the writing slope that way, I love it.
On occasion wizer it may pay to polish some parts before assembly but where you do use a brush make sure it's a soft one, I find that most easily available brushes are too stiff for my liking.

Roy.
 
What are the characteristics of a shellac finish? How does it deal with heat / water / wine / guests who expect all wood to be varnished and so hard as hell?

I have always thought of French polish as being the piano black gloss look and more suited to high status surfaces which will not be used to put things down on or where you wouldn't dare rest your cup etc but is this true?

Many thanks

Miles
 
What are the characteristics of a shellac finish? How does it deal with heat / water / wine / guests who expect all wood to be varnished and so hard as hell?

OK with water but not 'tothers. Basically you French polish for the visual appearance. Having said that, unlike varnish, if it is damaged FP is a lot easier to repair than varnish.

Roy.
 

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