Being a comparatively new starter I've just aquired some pieces of apple in short lengths and wonder how to use it. It is quite wet as it's really fresh. can I shape it or should I keep it?Also how should I store it under the curcumstances?
apple
- Thread starter T.allan
- Start date
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Wanlock Dod
Established Member
seal the end grain with some old paint or glue or whatever's handy, and put it somewhere with enough airflow to prevent damp. Leave it there for a goodly while.
Cheers,
Dod
Cheers,
Dod
Paul.J
Established Member
I turned This when it was quite green/wet after finding out that Apple was pretty difficult to dry successfuly and might be best to turn wet but thin and let it warp as it dries.Which was what i attempted with that piece in the thread.
It as moved a lot more since but i have had no cracks/splits in it :shock:
The other bits i have in split log form do seem to be doing ok still.
I found it to turn nice but must be finished in one go.
It as moved a lot more since but i have had no cracks/splits in it :shock:
The other bits i have in split log form do seem to be doing ok still.
I found it to turn nice but must be finished in one go.
PowerTool
Established Member
Both bits of advice are good,depends somewhat on the size and quantity of the pieces you've got.
If you have small (3-4" diameter) branch wood,then I would be tempted to try turning it green into goblets,vases or similar,with the turning centred on the pith,and not worry if it distorts.
There is also the option of doing both (think it was Tam who mentioned this) - turn some of it green,put some away to dry;it's a very sensible way of slowly building up a stock of dry timber for later,as drying is a rather s-l-o-w process.
Andrew
If you have small (3-4" diameter) branch wood,then I would be tempted to try turning it green into goblets,vases or similar,with the turning centred on the pith,and not worry if it distorts.
There is also the option of doing both (think it was Tam who mentioned this) - turn some of it green,put some away to dry;it's a very sensible way of slowly building up a stock of dry timber for later,as drying is a rather s-l-o-w process.
Andrew
I've turned a couple of items to see how it peerforms and I did find it easy to turn.I have turned it thin and will await the outcome. I willseal some orf it but will it be ok to seal with sanding sealer as a completed job and then waxed?[/url]
greybeard
Established Member
Similar situation in that I acquired some apple logs about 6 months ago, which ranged from about 5" to 12" in diameter........and then some more about 6 weeks ago, which ranged from about 4" to 10" diameter......and I can confirm that it splits and/or moves very quickly!
I also go with the 'try some now, save most for later' idea,......so I now have some strangely shaped thinnish pieces (not at all sure about them!), a couple of small but still perfectly formed items, and the rest are set aside.
The earlier set aside pieces benefitted from my scroogish sealing using approx 50% thinned PVA. Huge mistake/failure. Probably 90% are suffering badly from splits.
I'd tipped them out of the store (old shed) and left them to be dumped/skipped - grump grump. Then the rain fell for a day or so.
And probably 90% of the splits closed up. So I turned them all over to expose the other ends/splits......and more rain fell....and more splits disappeared.
So I stopped grumping, cut back until there was no evidence of splits, and have resealed with 100% PVA (no dilution).
Time will tell.
Why 100% PVA? Cos that has worked very well for some other woods.
and it is indeed a lovely wood to turn!
good luck
I also go with the 'try some now, save most for later' idea,......so I now have some strangely shaped thinnish pieces (not at all sure about them!), a couple of small but still perfectly formed items, and the rest are set aside.
The earlier set aside pieces benefitted from my scroogish sealing using approx 50% thinned PVA. Huge mistake/failure. Probably 90% are suffering badly from splits.
I'd tipped them out of the store (old shed) and left them to be dumped/skipped - grump grump. Then the rain fell for a day or so.
And probably 90% of the splits closed up. So I turned them all over to expose the other ends/splits......and more rain fell....and more splits disappeared.
So I stopped grumping, cut back until there was no evidence of splits, and have resealed with 100% PVA (no dilution).
Time will tell.
Why 100% PVA? Cos that has worked very well for some other woods.
and it is indeed a lovely wood to turn!
good luck
CHJ
Established Member
greybeard":3sct1046 said:
Although the splits will always remain, often it is possible to get away with turning a piece that has gone through this routine once it has fully dried and settled, I have had large Cherry pieces that have done this in a part turned state (splits 3-4mm in core area) that have closed again during drying and have finished turning with a precautionary application of thin CA in the split lines that have remained whole for a couple of years to date.
If the fruit wood is full of sap then it would appear that patience maybe the best answer and let it stay outside somewhere out of direct sunlight.
I am having some success with some cherry stored under the bench in a greenhouse, I presume the increased humidity is helping balance the moisture gradient across the logs.
This is the result of the apple.I cut the outside to a desirable shape wih a spindle gouge and a bowl gougeI used a skew on occasion which I didn't find comfortable to use because of the risk of the digs. I used a scraper first to cut out the centre leaving a connection between the tailstock and the head stock.I cut around it.I then sanded the whole thing and then covered it with beeswax
CHJ
Established Member
T.a, I would not use a skew or spindle gouge on the outside of a piece that large in diameter, both tools are angled and profiled to suite smaller diameter spindles with longitudinal grain orientation, (spindles) a bowl gouge is the natural basic for this task with the strength to stand the loads associated with the end grain cuts.
davegw
Established Member
loz":9cziwtaf said:
I find I have to sharpen scrapers much more often than any other tools, mostly because, especially on harder woods, the "hook" gets rubbed off quickly. Also the angle at which you hold the scraper affects the cut, I often hold it pointing lightly down (Don't know if that's correct technique but it works for me)
Finally I'd have thought that wanting to use a scraper to remove that much material (I accept that for other reasons you may have to) is not best - a Bowl Gouge will do the job quicker, and cleaner.
Bodrighy
Established Member
I use a couple of round edge scrapers I have made out of old carbon steel chisels to finish off the inside of bowls but I use bowl gouges to get the guts out. I work from the centre for most of it and shear scrape. I suppose at the end of the day, as long as you are using a tool that is up to the job it's the end result that matters. Yours works by the look of it. Keep experimenting and find your own method IMHO.
Pete
Pete
