Anyone with experience in retrofitting kerf weatherstripping seals in draughty casement windows?

[mrmoose]

Hi folks
I do a lot of sash window draught-proofing but don't have much experience of draught-proofing casement windows. The windows in question are very old, possibly Georgian, and so the rebates and gaps are probably going to be fairly varied. Has anyone tried retrofitting kerf seals if so how did you go about it, did you get good results, was it worth the effort, and how long on average would you imagine it would take for say a bunch of 3'x4' double hung casement windows per window? See photos

 

[HOJ]

Open in?
Listed building?
Conservation area?
Doesn't look like they have let water in, could you possibly rout a seal into the closing edges of the casements, be a nightmare to try and fit to frame or use SA P seals, but looks they already have in pic 2.

 

[mrmoose]

Yes, they open inwards and it is a listed building. I would have to rout the casements. Does anyone have much experience of doing this type of thing?

 

[johnnyb]

aquamac 21 is a good choice routed in using a guided cutter. it puts the seal into a groove and the flipper has a groove as well meaning it works with zero clearance.

 

[HOJ]

Yes.

 

[Ollie78]

I suggest the brush pile with a plastic central weather strip. I use 8mm self adhesive carrier just route it out, prime it then stick it in.
The reason being it comes in 3 sizes so you can tune it to the particular window, schlegel is less happy with variations in my experience.


Ollie

 

[mrmoose]

aquamac 21 is a good choice routed in using a guided cutter. it puts the seal into a groove and the flipper has a groove as well meaning it works with zero clearance.

Many thanks, I had a look at them on Ironmongory direct and the info said that the clearance gap was min 5mm and Max 7.5 but I guess that is without the flipper groove? If that is the case then either one has to cut two lots of grooves or vary the depth of the flipper groove? Both of which could be quite a lot of extra work?

 

[mrmoose]

I suggest the brush pile with a plastic central weather strip. I use 8mm self adhesive carrier just route it out, prime it then stick it in.
The reason being it comes in 3 sizes so you can tune it to the particular window, schlegel is less happy with variations in my experience.


Ollie

Many thanks Ollie, I am familiar with this method and use it a lot on sash windows, the main downside is the rebate around the casements being 12mm wide or maybe only 10 in some places which I guess would mean the carrier coming right to the edge of the rebate rather than being sunk in a groove though I guess this might be ok if I staple it on well with stainless steel staples. Also of course pile carries can get clogged up with paint over time. Have you tried any different seals in those type of carriers?

 

[mrmoose]

Many thanks, I had a look at them on Ironmongory direct and the info said that the clearance gap was min 5mm and Max 7.5 but I guess that is without the flipper groove? If that is the case then either one has to cut two lots of grooves or vary the depth of the flipper groove? Both of which could be quite a lot of extra work?

I also just realised that the slot would probably be too deep for these type of windows, especially if there was a flipper slot as well. I really appreciate all the input on this though, as its helping to clarify my thoughts on it!

 

[Ollie78]

@mrmoose
You can get a wierd angled router specifically for fitting aquamac etc in the corner of existing door and window frames. I nearly bought one ages ago for a particularly annoying job but ended up going a different way.
I think this is it Virutex RA17VG Weather Seal Routing Machine
Bit steep for one job though.

Ollie

 

[mrmoose]

@mrmoose
You can get a wierd angled router specifically for fitting aquamac etc in the corner of existing door and window frames. I nearly bought one ages ago for a particularly annoying job but ended up going a different way.
I think this is it Virutex RA17VG Weather Seal Routing Machine
Bit steep for one job though.

Ollie

Cheers Ollie, as you say a bit pricy but interesting though!

 

[Ollie78]

Cheers Ollie, as you say a bit pricy but interesting though!

I am thinking you could make a jig for a dremel or something to replicate its function.

Ollie