Anybody else love bandsaws?
- Thread starter Molynoox
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It should not make a difference if the wheels are flat or crowned, if the blade tips off the front of the wheel I would suggest that either the top wheel is out of alignment, most bandsaws have adjustments to compensate for that, or the bearings are shot, worth checking take the blade off and give the wheel a good tug in all directions any play should not be felt.
user 29368
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I'm very pleased with my 10inch Record Power band saw, bought it 12ish months ago. It cuts straight with the right blade for the job and chops though 45mm thick guitar body blanks with ease.
Here's a cut I made the other day at 12deg for a guitar neck scarf joint. A simple jig set to angle I wanted made it a peice of cake.
The only weak point is the fence it comes with as standard, I upgraded to this Axminster one for £30 and its much better.
https://www.axminstertools.com/axmi...p_A6DxHZF9Rt4HlCVy5293ojBYIyvvuhoC0isQAvD_BwE
Here's a cut I made the other day at 12deg for a guitar neck scarf joint. A simple jig set to angle I wanted made it a peice of cake.
The only weak point is the fence it comes with as standard, I upgraded to this Axminster one for £30 and its much better.
https://www.axminstertools.com/axmi...p_A6DxHZF9Rt4HlCVy5293ojBYIyvvuhoC0isQAvD_BwE
When I set up my workshop a year ago, I purchased a table saw, thinking I would get lots of use out of it. Yesterday I ordered a bandsaw as this is what I really need. The table saw was luckily only a cheap Evolution one. I bought the Axminister craft AC2606B. I wasn't able to find much out about it as there were very few reviews but it's more than big enough for what I'll need it for, which is cutting the odd tuning blank but mostly cutting shapes in 1"-2" thick planks. Hopefully it will last me.
If anyone else has the AC2606B, it would be good to hear how you found it, good or bad. Anything to upgrade/replace or is it good to go once set up?
If anyone else has the AC2606B, it would be good to hear how you found it, good or bad. Anything to upgrade/replace or is it good to go once set up?
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I have had a Charnwood band saw for three years and I cant get it to cut stait I have adjusted the wheels with great difficulty and tightened the blade untill I am scarted it will break but nothing works Its hardly used but I am sure it can be made to work if only I new what I am doing wrong.
KevinLycett
Established Member
Scroll up this thread to the bandsaw setup vid it’s pretty solid stuff
John Hall
Established Member
More room means more stuff…you never have enough…lol
Well I do love the old startrite but I have to admit that this and the morticer are the least used machines in the workshop. I do try to avoid taking on any curved work these days though; which probably explains how dusty it is getting.
Molynoox
Established Member
Does that fence work ok as it looks like it locks on the front edge only? Pretty good value if it does work.
The fence on my elektra bekum is pants, but it gets the job done.
Martin
user 29368
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Yes I does work. I always check it at both ends with a square before use and it is always, and stays square while cutting. Far better than the POS fence it came with.
100+ reviews on axminster website.
Does anyway have any experience of Casadei bandsaws? Italian and the current range is the Aura series. Living in Sweden I have no chance of picking up older UK types, there are few suppliers and long distances to go and see anything as well.
Thank you Kevin I followed the video removed the table and set it up and it cuts perfect now.
BearTricks
Established Member
I’m after a bandsaw for my small space, so it’s looking like the Record Power BS250 or the Axminster AC1950B.
I currently have a Rexon BS2301A. Theres very little info about it online aside from a few okay reviews (one of which is me, on this forum, seven years ago). I took it out of storage the other day and I can’t see what I liked about it. It’s made of flimsy plastic, the table feels like a substantial chunk of wood could bend it in half and I can’t for the life of me get the fence to stay square.
Another option is the Aldi Ferrex which is currently in stock at half the price of the Record and Axminster offerings and which may well be a rebranded Record itself. That will allow me some breathing space for upgrades and fettling but I feel like I spend half my life trying to find that one ‘hidden gem‘ that brands like Titan accidentally did a good job of, and I‘d be better served getting something tried and tested.
Leaning towards the Record at the moment. The Axi comes with a stand but the Record is slightly cheaper and I can build my own stand with storage easily enough.
Apologies for hijacking this thread but we didn’t need another bandsaw thread so hoping the experts can give me some advice by either steering me in one direction or suggesting something better at a similar price point.
eBay is a no go. Nothing available within driving distance of me.
I currently have a Rexon BS2301A. Theres very little info about it online aside from a few okay reviews (one of which is me, on this forum, seven years ago). I took it out of storage the other day and I can’t see what I liked about it. It’s made of flimsy plastic, the table feels like a substantial chunk of wood could bend it in half and I can’t for the life of me get the fence to stay square.
Another option is the Aldi Ferrex which is currently in stock at half the price of the Record and Axminster offerings and which may well be a rebranded Record itself. That will allow me some breathing space for upgrades and fettling but I feel like I spend half my life trying to find that one ‘hidden gem‘ that brands like Titan accidentally did a good job of, and I‘d be better served getting something tried and tested.
Leaning towards the Record at the moment. The Axi comes with a stand but the Record is slightly cheaper and I can build my own stand with storage easily enough.
Apologies for hijacking this thread but we didn’t need another bandsaw thread so hoping the experts can give me some advice by either steering me in one direction or suggesting something better at a similar price point.
eBay is a no go. Nothing available within driving distance of me.
Molynoox
Established Member
Ferrex seems to get the approval of many including the mighty Millard - like you say it's probably a rebranded something or other, seems to be Aldi's style, and it works well if you can get hold of them.
Bojam
Established Member
If I was going to buy a 10” saw in the UK then it would be the Record Power Sabre 250. High quality at a reasonable price.
https://www.recordpower.co.uk/produ...0v-uk-and-european-lead-included#.YmKi2iWEqEc
https://www.recordpower.co.uk/produ...0v-uk-and-european-lead-included#.YmKi2iWEqEc
heimlaga
Established Member
Casadei are professional quality aiming at professional users. I think they are rebranded Meber theese days. However being in Sweden your best buy would almost certainly be cecondhand. That country is overflowing with high quality secondhand bandsaws usually fairly priced.
If you want a small one Elca (the same as Lini and older Luna) is a rather safe bet. If you want a larger saw Jonsered and Waco are two top quality makes that tend to turn up all the time.
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Mine (Record Power 4") cuts nice and straight with a new blade until I use that blade for a curve. After that, it takes a lot of guiding.
However many times I tell myself to change the blade to one I've reserved for curve cutting, I still don't sometimes.
Forget straight cuts with a blade that's been used for curves!
record power BS350 with rikon guide upgrade and tuf blades. Brilliant piece of kit, with all the instant access advantages the thread started off with. Bought for a project 3 years ago. Wish I'd got one 30 years ago... I tend to keep a fairly wide blade in it - can't recall if its 3/4 or 5/8 without going and measuring it but tracks really straight.
Alexam
Bandsaw Boxmaker
Back in 2014, having retired and just started my venture into woodwork as a hobby, I bought a job lot of tools from one of my son's friends father who was no longer using them. Included was an old bandsaw. That started a journey for me that was very different.
After a few weeks of learning about bandsaws, looking at lots of videos from here and the USA, my knowledge increased. It was a real challenge to get the old bandsaw running well, but I did manage it and it would cut well with a 1/4" blade. The problem was that the depth and height were too restrictive. By that time I had decided to make bandsaw boxes. Basic designs to start with, but the limitations of a small bandsaw were such that it was time to upgrade. At that time, the better machines were fairly expensive, as is always the case, but I went for the Record BS400 and am so pleased that I did. It worked extreemly well and I was able to be far more creative incorporating the use of a scrollsay that came with the old tools. It enabled me to learn how to cut out the spaces needed for the 'secret' drawers that I started to build into my boxes. I later improved that scrollsaw to an Axminster EX21 size that is even better.
Over the next few years I continued to learn the ways that bandsaws can be improved with the correct tuning from people like Alex Snodgrass from USA, whos tuning video is really great.
For those of you who are having problems in getting your bandsaw working really well, please believe that it can be tuned up if you do the right things and will become a real joy to operate. Some of the ways are incorporated in the following, but others also have their own ideas that may help .
I have decided to give up woodworking now. At 81 I find that I dont have such an interest and as with other hobbies I have had, its best to make a clean break. I am selling off nearly all of my equipment and will post some on the forum for those who are interested, but if you are looking for anything, then ask on the Wanted forum and I can reply if I have it.
Enjoy your woodworking.
GET THE BEST TUNING FROM A BANDSAW
'Alex Snodgrass of Carter Industries has an excellent video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU on a tune up method that works well. His updated version also here -
The following video may help some owners with a Record BS400, but it is similar to most machines blade changes -
Blades can run and cut without any guides whatsoever () as long as the machine is tuned correctly. This is how the blade should be running BEFORE the guides are brought into play on your machine, so that they can 'bump back' the blade should it wander, so please dont get guides near the blade before you know it is running clear and staying in the same place.
CHECKING BLADE TENSION - Flutter test Video's -
and
Tuning a bandsaw is only that and nothing else. If you really want to get the very best use of your bandsaw on an ongoing basis, then the Steve Maskery DVD's will show you far more and they are a real investment that you should own. http://www.workshopessentials.com/shop/ '.
BUY BEST BLADES FROM ..... Tuff Saws
TUNE WITH SOUND ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPyc2iDQnOA&vl ( UNPROVEN )
Whenever you put a blade on a bandsaw, ask yourself the following questions:-
....... are you managing to get the blade running freely and central on the top wheel ( without guides or rear bearing near the blade ) with the gullet of the teeth in the centre of the top wheel ? The exception would be with wider blades, as 1/2" and wider may not sit 'centred' on the top wheel).
That's the first priority before closing in guides and support/thrust bearings. The blade will not be in the centre of the lower wheel as the manufacturer allows the top wheel to be adjusted and tilt to allow tuning.
Is the blade running vertical 90° to the table alignment, front and back as well as side to side?
Once the guides and bearings have been brought to the correct position, (not touching when the blade runs freely) is the blade remaining where it should be when run under power and switched on and off checking several times ? IMPORTANTLY, your guides should all have a locking mechanism and it ius important to make dure that you have tightened those locks tightly. \If not, vibration could allow the guides to move closer and possibly lock the blade.
Make sure that the blade tension is correct, or as near as it can be. Each blade could be different, even if it is the same depth, so needs to be checked whenever changing blades.
If all these things are correct, then you should get a true cut unless you are trying to cut the wood too fast and it's filling the teeth with sawdust and pushing the blade out of line and see if teeth are damaged in any way.
Finally, if you have used the blade before, make sure the teeth are clean, as sawdust and sap can stick in the teeth gullet and side of the blade. Cleaning with a wire brush will result in a far better cut before starting a new job, but certainly on a regular basis. Methalated spirit is good for removing the sap resin if it has built up and don't forgrt to check the wheels for this type of build up.
Carter blade Stabilizer - by Alex Snodgrass. https://youtu.be/w_tv7cm0-VU
This video shows how well a stabilizer works for smaller blades with the guide only above the table. I have one of these which works well. The back of the blade gullet is also on the centre line on the upper wheel as per his usual advice. Product Range - http://www.carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/band-saw-stabilizer
Finally, if you have an older machine with 3 phase connections, this following video may help
https://youtu.be/ZqnfLHhuuUQ = 3 phase converter
Good luck with your woodworkworking.
Malcolm - [email protected]
Location - B47 5QZ
After a few weeks of learning about bandsaws, looking at lots of videos from here and the USA, my knowledge increased. It was a real challenge to get the old bandsaw running well, but I did manage it and it would cut well with a 1/4" blade. The problem was that the depth and height were too restrictive. By that time I had decided to make bandsaw boxes. Basic designs to start with, but the limitations of a small bandsaw were such that it was time to upgrade. At that time, the better machines were fairly expensive, as is always the case, but I went for the Record BS400 and am so pleased that I did. It worked extreemly well and I was able to be far more creative incorporating the use of a scrollsay that came with the old tools. It enabled me to learn how to cut out the spaces needed for the 'secret' drawers that I started to build into my boxes. I later improved that scrollsaw to an Axminster EX21 size that is even better.
Over the next few years I continued to learn the ways that bandsaws can be improved with the correct tuning from people like Alex Snodgrass from USA, whos tuning video is really great.
For those of you who are having problems in getting your bandsaw working really well, please believe that it can be tuned up if you do the right things and will become a real joy to operate. Some of the ways are incorporated in the following, but others also have their own ideas that may help .
I have decided to give up woodworking now. At 81 I find that I dont have such an interest and as with other hobbies I have had, its best to make a clean break. I am selling off nearly all of my equipment and will post some on the forum for those who are interested, but if you are looking for anything, then ask on the Wanted forum and I can reply if I have it.
Enjoy your woodworking.
GET THE BEST TUNING FROM A BANDSAW
'Alex Snodgrass of Carter Industries has an excellent video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU on a tune up method that works well. His updated version also here -
The following video may help some owners with a Record BS400, but it is similar to most machines blade changes -
Blades can run and cut without any guides whatsoever () as long as the machine is tuned correctly. This is how the blade should be running BEFORE the guides are brought into play on your machine, so that they can 'bump back' the blade should it wander, so please dont get guides near the blade before you know it is running clear and staying in the same place.
CHECKING BLADE TENSION - Flutter test Video's -
and
Tuning a bandsaw is only that and nothing else. If you really want to get the very best use of your bandsaw on an ongoing basis, then the Steve Maskery DVD's will show you far more and they are a real investment that you should own. http://www.workshopessentials.com/shop/ '.
BUY BEST BLADES FROM ..... Tuff Saws
TUNE WITH SOUND ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPyc2iDQnOA&vl ( UNPROVEN )
Whenever you put a blade on a bandsaw, ask yourself the following questions:-
....... are you managing to get the blade running freely and central on the top wheel ( without guides or rear bearing near the blade ) with the gullet of the teeth in the centre of the top wheel ? The exception would be with wider blades, as 1/2" and wider may not sit 'centred' on the top wheel).
That's the first priority before closing in guides and support/thrust bearings. The blade will not be in the centre of the lower wheel as the manufacturer allows the top wheel to be adjusted and tilt to allow tuning.
Is the blade running vertical 90° to the table alignment, front and back as well as side to side?
Once the guides and bearings have been brought to the correct position, (not touching when the blade runs freely) is the blade remaining where it should be when run under power and switched on and off checking several times ? IMPORTANTLY, your guides should all have a locking mechanism and it ius important to make dure that you have tightened those locks tightly. \If not, vibration could allow the guides to move closer and possibly lock the blade.
Make sure that the blade tension is correct, or as near as it can be. Each blade could be different, even if it is the same depth, so needs to be checked whenever changing blades.
If all these things are correct, then you should get a true cut unless you are trying to cut the wood too fast and it's filling the teeth with sawdust and pushing the blade out of line and see if teeth are damaged in any way.
Finally, if you have used the blade before, make sure the teeth are clean, as sawdust and sap can stick in the teeth gullet and side of the blade. Cleaning with a wire brush will result in a far better cut before starting a new job, but certainly on a regular basis. Methalated spirit is good for removing the sap resin if it has built up and don't forgrt to check the wheels for this type of build up.
Carter blade Stabilizer - by Alex Snodgrass. https://youtu.be/w_tv7cm0-VU
This video shows how well a stabilizer works for smaller blades with the guide only above the table. I have one of these which works well. The back of the blade gullet is also on the centre line on the upper wheel as per his usual advice. Product Range - http://www.carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/band-saw-stabilizer
Finally, if you have an older machine with 3 phase connections, this following video may help
https://youtu.be/ZqnfLHhuuUQ = 3 phase converter
Good luck with your woodworkworking.
Malcolm - [email protected]
Location - B47 5QZ
