Any tips for turning padauk

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Peter907

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I have a 6"X3" padauk bowl blank. I only use carbide. The outside was reasonably easy to turn, but took an hour to sand out the tearout using 2" discs on a cordless drill, starting at 40 grit through 400. The inside probably took over 4 continuous hours to hollow, after a 42mm forstner bit to get the required depth, even going through a couple of brand new cutters on each tool, 8.9mm and 11mm round and a detail, been trying to find the best tool but still not sure. I've been at it almost all day pretty much and it still needs another 15mm of laborious hollowing tomorrow. The cutters are just scraping fine dust, but if I press even slightly harder I get horrendous catches, digging up to 2mm deep. I feel I could have hollowed it quicker by sanding alone! Oddly, I'm not getting much problem with tearout on the inside probably since I'm now taking lighter cuts to try and avoid catches. Lathe speed about 1500rpm, cutter height about 4mm below the centre, and I think I have a very steady and firm hand with the tool rest pretty close to the inside surface. I'm not very experienced with bowls, to state the obvious, but have had no problems previously hollowing sycamore and cherry. What might I be doing wrong with padauk? Any tips would be helpful.
 
I think you need to find your local turning club, men's shed or a turner near you that can give you some lessons. Padauk is hardish but sharp tools get the job done. I have never used carbide turning tools but regular bowl gouges will handle padauk OK. Harder the wood the more often you sharpen but thats just how the mop flops.
Woodturning: A Foundation Course (with DVD) : ROWLEY, KEITH: Amazon.com.au: Books
That book got a lot of turners off to a good start. How to use scrapers the right way will help with the carbide tool use but learning to use regular turning tools will make you a better turner. Here is a guy using gouges to do a padauk bowl.

Woodturning Padauk Bowl - YouTube
Regards
John
 
Inside of bowl a carbide should be on centre or slightly above centre.
Being below centre will tend to rub on the carbide side rather than the cutting edge.

Unlike traditional tools carbide tools are best kept on centre.
Tilting them at a slight angle to the cut helps avoid catches too,
 
padauk wood can be a health hazard:


  • Inhalation: Inhaling padauk wood dust can cause eosinophilic occupational asthma.


  • Skin contact: Direct contact with padauk wood can cause skin rashes and other dermatological reactions.


  • General health: Inhaling wood dust can be hazardous to your long-term health. All types of wood dust can damage your lungs and cause other adverse health
 
You didn't mention which way you were cutting the inside but you should be cutting from edge to centre to cut with the grain.

Padauk isn't that hard so I'm surprised you had so much trouble with it.

I suggest you find somewhere to get a lesson in bowl turning using conventional gouges. You will find that much faster and more effective without the damage to the surface.
 
Thanks for your advice.

Paul Hannaby, thank you - I was cutting from the centre to the edge when I got the catches.

I finally got the damn thing finished today and I'm quite pleased with it. It just took forever! It is a yarn bowl - see the attached pic. I've used 3 applications of Citrus Burnishing oil on it and intend to wax it in the morning.
 

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padauk wood can be a health hazard:


  • Inhalation: Inhaling padauk wood dust can cause eosinophilic occupational asthma.


  • Skin contact: Direct contact with padauk wood can cause skin rashes and other dermatological reactions.


  • General health: Inhaling wood dust can be hazardous to your long-term health. All types of wood dust can damage your lungs and cause other adverse health
Yes I’ve turned Padauk before and even with a mask on my nose blocked up. I recommend a proper head mask with filters and air flow.
 
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