Any Tips for hanging Double Doors?

[Chipp]

Hello all

First time to post here, starting out on my carpentry journey! I have hung quite a few internal doors before, but never a double door. I’m buying two singles with a pairmaker.

Do any of the more experienced members here have tips on how to get a good result? I’m worried about getting both doors level and in the same plane and can see this being quite a bit more challenging than a single

Thanks
C

 

[Doug71]

Hello and welcome Chipp.

Afraid I can't think of any tips on hanging a pair of doors, it's just the same as hanging 2 single doors really, you are dictated by how straight, plumb and level the frame/lining is, you just do the best you can.

Sorry not much help!

 

[eribaMotters]

I've only done this once, but I'd offer a few bits of advice.
Hinges - if you need something with throw do not use Parliament hinges as they have a small knuckle, go for projection hinges as they will be about twice as strong.
Allow a LOT of time. The first two that hung of the door lining took me a day, the meeting pair hanging off these took me less than 1/2 that time. The opening and floor I was dealing with was far from true. If you look at the left hand pair you will get an idea when you look at the gap required to clear a rise in the floor.
Next time I'd have a box of wedges to hold things in place.

Best of luck - Colin

 

[Chipp]

Thanks guys. I am doing the linings too so at least I can take my time at getting that plumb and level

 

[Bingy man]

If you’re fitting the linings as well then as above take your time and get them spot on - square/ true /and level. Once this is achieved with careful marking out both doors will be level , if your floor is level then it’s job done if not you will have to make allowances for this . Because you have fitted internal doors previously then you shouldn’t have any major problems. Invest in a door stand or make your own if you don’t already have one . Good luck

 

[niall Y]

If you are making and fitting the linings as well, it's often expedient not to fully fix one of the uprights, or, if you do, have it so that you can easily undo the screws and reposition it, That way, within reason, you can get the two doors to be in the same plane -even if one of them is slightly twisted.

 

[rogxwhit]

I am doing the linings too so at least I can take my time at getting that plumb and level

If you are making and fitting the linings as well, it's often expedient not to fully fix one of the uprights, or, if you do, have it so that you can easily undo the screws and reposition it, That way, within reason, you can get the two doors to be in the same plane -even if one of them is slightly twisted.

Abso bloody lutely!!

I do the same for external doors too, even if the door's just a single.

 

[baldkev]

Ive done a few pairs and the lining is the key. if the lining is perfect, the rest us pretty easy.
Once youve got it pretty darn good, measure down from the top 1800mm on each side, measure from the top corner diagonally across and down to your mark and note down the size, then repeat for the other diagonal. If its good, they'll be the same measurement.
The point of the 1800 is to keep you away from the floor, which may or may not be level, so just avoid the hasstle and go to 1800mm.
Next up, after the jambs and head are level and square and the diagonal measurement is good, measure down from top to the floor on one side, then the middle, then the other side of the opening. Now you know what the floor is doing and have the heights to cut your doors at ( minus the floor finish if not laid and leaving a gap all round )
I usually aim for 3mm top and sides, 5mm on the bottom unless the floor is out, then you are governed by the highest point and what the floor does as the door swings open.

If the swing open position of floor is bad, you could consider putting in a low profile threshold to level it up and do away with the headache of the floor... a 4mm step is usually acceptable and will account for a bit of out of level, whilst not being a trip hazard. Or rising butt hinges

Oh yeah, check both doors VERY carefully before cutting or hinge housing. You are looking to make sure there are no twists in the doors to start with

 

[Garden Shed Projects]

Fix 1 leg. Hang first door, get it right before you start fixing the second leg. Assuming the second door fits ok you should find it fairly straightforward from then on. Don’t try and tweak and adjust them both at the same time. You may want to use a string line to ensure they are in twist.

 

[Doug71]

It's really frustrating when you come to fit replacement doors and the frame isn't plumb as the previous joiner has made the frame fit a twisted door

If you are fitting the linings yourself you can't go far wrong

I've just hung 16 prefinished Oak doors on a new build, the builder fitted the casings himself, practically every casing needed a bit of adjustment, 1 of them I had to totally remove and refit, got the impression the builder thought I was being a bit picky

 

[johnnyb]

just to add to garden sheds post. using a string involves tacks in the corners and string criss crossing.the string needs to be in contact with the frame. where it crosses in the middle the strings need to barely kiss. this shows the frame is not cross legged.
I prefer not fully fixing at least one leg and knocking that so the doors are in alignment. to much can lead to issues fitting the architraves though. in fact that is something to always have in mind as I'll fitting arcs are an eyesore.

 

[Chipp]

Thanks all. In terms of sizing the opening and linings, should I leave the usual 3mm gap at each hinge side, and perhaps 3mm in the middle between each door?

 

[Ttrees]

Slightly OT, but just wanted to mention something handy.
If staining or using a concoction of sorts on double doors...
Then divide the solution, having one pot for each door. DAMHIK