9fingers
Established Member
Ebay saw was item 220031397451.
It finished early as someone else suspected.
Bob
It finished early as someone else suspected.
Bob
Any ideas on a home made wall saw ?
- Thread starter JFC
- Start date
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as an ex- owner of TWO wall saws let me put a few things forward.As Scrit mentioned if wrongly transported the go out of alignment
Re setting is time consuming and material consuming DAMHIKT
They NEED a TALL CEILING
secondary DE helps as the mounted units are for filling the "filter " sack.
On the plus side, they are space savers, a WS with a standard TS will do all ones sheet and solid work. I love em wish I could buy a STRIEBERG these are the Roll Royce of WS's.
I have a design for making them
sorry in my sketch book and not on PC can scan and send it to anyone interested.Made from plywood and a few nuts and bolts and some wire string. :wink: and a few other bits and bobs, costed it out approx € 400.00 in all
Ed
Established Member
Jason,
Thinking about your idea for using your current saw guide how about this:
Up the sides and across the top and bottom of your wall frame you have equally spaced notches, lets say 50 cm spacing (rather like a castle wall).
The frame that holds you saw guide has lugs that fit into the notches.
You can then place your guide frame that the saw runs in accurately at 10cm increments. (Either vertically or horizontally)
The base of the saw should be flush with the bottom of the lugs on the guide frame, but the notches should be deep enough that the bottom of the lugs do not touch the bottom of the notch before the saw is on the surface of the sheet to be cut.
Not so easy to describe as to draw on the back of an envelope!
Cheers
Ed
Thinking about your idea for using your current saw guide how about this:
Up the sides and across the top and bottom of your wall frame you have equally spaced notches, lets say 50 cm spacing (rather like a castle wall).
The frame that holds you saw guide has lugs that fit into the notches.
You can then place your guide frame that the saw runs in accurately at 10cm increments. (Either vertically or horizontally)
The base of the saw should be flush with the bottom of the lugs on the guide frame, but the notches should be deep enough that the bottom of the lugs do not touch the bottom of the notch before the saw is on the surface of the sheet to be cut.
Not so easy to describe as to draw on the back of an envelope!
Cheers
Ed
engineer one
Established Member
just picked up latest copy of fine homebuilding,november 2006.
interesting comparison of a number of track systems, including
festo, ez, etc. noticed that veritas/lee valley do one of a pair,
which can go up to 104 inches long. you make your own saw base,
so you could make one for each different thickness of wood you
wanted to cut. seems to be 118 dollars, so could be useful to look
at.
also another idea about putting up crown moulding(coving),
and cutting same.
paul :wink:
interesting comparison of a number of track systems, including
festo, ez, etc. noticed that veritas/lee valley do one of a pair,
which can go up to 104 inches long. you make your own saw base,
so you could make one for each different thickness of wood you
wanted to cut. seems to be 118 dollars, so could be useful to look
at.
also another idea about putting up crown moulding(coving),
and cutting same.
paul :wink:
Colin C
Established Member
JFC
I was at W6 today and saw a portable wall saw that was going for £850 all in at the show and they are in Reading
I took a pic for you to see
I have a laeflet on it for you if you want it and a link to they web site Here but I think it is new so not much there yet :roll:
I will get the leaflet in the post for you :wink:
I was at W6 today and saw a portable wall saw that was going for £850 all in at the show and they are in Reading
I took a pic for you to see
I have a laeflet on it for you if you want it and a link to they web site Here but I think it is new so not much there yet :roll:
I will get the leaflet in the post for you :wink:
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