Any forklift gas experts?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ColeyS1

Established Member
Joined
2 Nov 2009
Messages
4,245
Reaction score
38
I'm having issues with the forklift. It runs for a while then the vapouriser/regulator freezes up.
8c399fa2ebef3d2dd057b54dc346f7e7.jpg

It's had a forklift guy rebuild the regulator but it seems to have got gradually worse again. This is a brand new one I've fitted. I just drained some water from the radiator so I could put in some antifreeze. I undid the outlet on the regulator and it felt a nice warm 40 ish degrees after letting it run for 3 or 4 minutes. This suggests the warm water is being pumped through the regulator ok?
I'm trying to do away with this setup
f7727a6000646bfdb0d63913e0521846.jpg

It's embarrassing having to jumpstart it with a hairdryer !! Ha

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
LPG causes frost when it is evaporating too quickly for the system its running through.
Thats why the bottom of a gas bottle goes icy as it runs out.

look for the cause of too much LPG expansion.Is it as simple as the bottle is empty?
 
It does it whatever the condition of the bottle Sunnybob either new, part filled etc.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
I worked with LPG for many years, but only on heating appliances and never once looked at a motor running on it, so I cant be too helpful.
Are you sure the regulator and the jets into the motor are the correct size? For some reason the gas is moving too quickly through it.
 
I replaced the regulator (beam t60) with exactly the same model. I'm not sure about the jets tbh. Engines aren't my strong point . There's an idle adjustment screw on the top that I think controls the mixture of fuel to oxygen.....not sure how I'd know if it's running to lean or to rich either. A quick Google suggests the condition of the spark plugs could help identify that.
a3176e562d3ef5cb33d5a6c1e46874cc.jpg

It froze with the old regulator on it. Perhaps it's worth putting that back on until I can figure out where the idle adjustment screw should be. Rather embarrassingly I had a fiddle with it so wouldn't know it's position from coming out the factory.
I thought of you the other day Sunnybob. I saw a type of bandsaw box that I hadn't seen before-
78857607b8f7637c804dbadb7b4c1c68.jpg

Not sure how you'd go about making it though...

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
Although I have ZERO experience of a motor running on LPG, I have been building and working on petrol engines for over 50 years, and yes, spark plugs are the window to the soul.

But... They only show the last 2 seconds of the engines life. I dont even know how many cylinders your fork lift has (i used to drive electric fork lifts many years ago).
If you can pull the plug, your google chart is correct.

Assuming the engine is like a petrol engine, there will be two adjustment screws. a mixture screw, to adjust fuel to air (NOT oxygen!), and an idle screw to adjust ... well... idling.

if you can reach them without burning your fingers off, start with both screws 2 and a half turns open. Close them gently, do NOT use force on the brass screws, you will damage the tapers on the other end. Then count 2 1/2 turns out. This should get the engine running in some form or another. if the engine is racing, close them, if its sputtering, open them very slightly. Its a combination of the two that will solve the problem.

from a distance, its impossible to be more specific, but you will hear when you get close to ideal. the engine will run smoooothly. and then adjust the idle to run slightly fast but not racing.
 
Noel":2k07kf5m said:
If you haven't already Coley (imagine you have) have a look on the Fork forum or post on it:

https://www.forkliftaction.com/forum/discussion_482.htm
I've spent ages looking on various forums. I'd always put up with it till a couple weeks ago but having to hairdryer start the thing twice while the timber delivery was waiting was the last straw. Out of sheer frustration I ordered the new regulator hoping for a fix (apparently the rebuild kits are known for being a bit hit or miss)
The link you posted does immediately jump out. It's always had a overheating issue since I've owned it, just that usually it only gets used for 15-20 minutes at a time so isn't a problem. I'll try and look for the waterpump tomorrow. It's an old Coventry climax so doubt it would be an easy replacement.
I did buy a 12v to 240v inverter thinking I could keep the hair dryer running continuously! :mad:) the inverter didn't quite have the required oomph to run the hairdryer though. I also bought a 12v car heater which was just as pathetic. Perhaps a petrol generator to power the hairdryer to make my gas forklift run could be a last resort !
Thanks Noel / Neil lol

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
Its not a good idea to bodge an LPG regulator system while youre sitting 18" in front a of a tank of the stuff that would demolish 400 square metres if it blew. :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: you wont have realised this, but what youre doing now breaks all the corgi- gas safe - whatever theyre called now rules, and is a very serious offence.

Call coventry climax. Its a firm thats been around forever, they must have someone who can fix it.
 
sunnybob":3vn25tka said:
Although I have ZERO experience of a motor running on LPG, I have been building and working on petrol engines for over 50 years, and yes, spark plugs are the window to the soul.

But... They only show the last 2 seconds of the engines life. I dont even know how many cylinders your fork lift has (i used to drive electric fork lifts many years ago).
If you can pull the plug, your google chart is correct.

Assuming the engine is like a petrol engine, there will be two adjustment screws. a mixture screw, to adjust fuel to air (NOT oxygen!), and an idle screw to adjust ... well... idling.

if you can reach them without burning your fingers off, start with both screws 2 and a half turns open. Close them gently, do NOT use force on the brass screws, you will damage the tapers on the other end. Then count 2 1/2 turns out. This should get the engine running in some form or another. if the engine is racing, close them, if its sputtering, open them very slightly. Its a combination of the two that will solve the problem.

from a distance, its impossible to be more specific, but you will hear when you get close to ideal. the engine will run smoooothly. and then adjust the idle to run slightly fast but not racing.
That's the thing though Bob I can only see one idle adjustment screw on the top of the regulator. When I had the forklift running after having the new reg fitted it ran beautifully straight away. Twiddling with the screw didn't make much difference at all to how the engine sounded/ran- from what I could tell anyway. The only thing that needed adjusting was the throttle screw- the bit that fixes to the accelerator. For months I used a suitably sized log against the accelerator so it didn't stall. That recently got changed to a piece of baler cord tying the accelerator down just enough to keep it ticking over ! If I wire brush the plugs then have it running till the reg freezes do you think that might be long enough to notice the spark plug condition ie too rich or too lean?





Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
our posts have crossed. My advice is as stated, youre playing with a bomb and you dont have the qualifications. Bite the bullet and get professional help whatever the cost.
 
sunnybob":2m3vcnsk said:
Call coventry climax. Its a firm thats been around forever, they must have someone who can fix it.
Are they still about ?




Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
ColeyS1":2y8vu104 said:
Noel":2y8vu104 said:
If you haven't already Coley (imagine you have) have a look on the Fork forum or post on it:

https://www.forkliftaction.com/forum/discussion_482.htm
I've spent ages looking on various forums. I'd always put up with it till a couple weeks ago but having to hairdryer start the thing twice while the timber delivery was waiting was the last straw. Out of sheer frustration I ordered the new regulator hoping for a fix (apparently the rebuild kits are known for being a bit hit or miss)
The link you posted does immediately jump out. It's always had a overheating issue since I've owned it, just that usually it only gets used for 15-20 minutes at a time so isn't a problem. I'll try and look for the waterpump tomorrow. It's an old Coventry climax so doubt it would be an easy replacement.
I did buy a 12v to 240v inverter thinking I could keep the hair dryer running continuously! :mad:) the inverter didn't quite have the required oomph to run the hairdryer though. I also bought a 12v car heater which was just as pathetic. Perhaps a petrol generator to power the hairdryer to make my gas forklift run could be a last resort !
Thanks Noel / Neil lol

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Don't do anything until you find a new/2nd hand/refurbed w/pump. Spares are dead easy to find.
People like this: http://www.thepartscentre.co.uk/pages/h ... php?login=

or this: http://www.spare-crane-parts.co.uk/fork ... parts.aspx

Niall
 
I can't comment on fork lift trucks other than to say that the FLT cylinders often have a dip tube fitted so the cylinder must be orientated the right way.
I've had 3 cars running on LPG. It burns cleaner & hotter than petrol - that's why the cylinder head must have hardened seats & valves - so I doubt you will be able to tell the richness or leanness of the mixture by looking at the plugs only if it's running too hot.
 
Hah! coventry climax trucks were everywhere the last time I drove a fork lift. Oh well. :roll:

But seriously, getting inside an LPG system is MUCH more dangerous than working on petrol engines. I advise against anyone with zero training breaking into high pressure LPG pipework.
take a read through the UK gov site....

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg387.pdf
 
It's always had a overheating issue since I've owned it

There your answer!
You probably have a blown head gasket, Combustion gasses are getting in to the cooling system and as the regulator is mounted fairy high there is only air in the pipes after a bit of running. No water, no heat transfer and the regulator freezes up. Stop it and let the heat soak from the engine to the regulator and it will run again until the same happens.

Gerry
 
Gerry":2k757v0n said:
It's always had a overheating issue since I've owned it

There your answer!
You probably have a blown head gasket, Combustion gasses are getting in to the cooling system and as the regulator is mounted fairy high there is only air in the pipes after a bit of running. No water, no heat transfer and the regulator freezes up. Stop it and let the heat soak from the engine to the regulator and it will run again until the same happens.

Gerry
The only reason I think it must have a overheating issue is when I first got it I tried driving it to get serviced. It managed about half a mile before the water started boiling and steam started coming out. It never really gets driven flat out like that when it's off loading timber around the workshop.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
sunnybob":208y3u49 said:
Hah! coventry climax trucks were everywhere the last time I drove a fork lift. Oh well. :roll:

But seriously, getting inside an LPG system is MUCH more dangerous than working on petrol engines. I advise against anyone with zero training breaking into high pressure LPG pipework.
take a read through the UK gov site....

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg387.pdf
I'll keep that in mind ta [WINKING FACE]

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Back
Top