Another domino thread

[baldkev]

Im finally ready to take the plunge

Im thinking the 500 will do me. Mostly it'll be for joining cabinets for built in wardrobes and aligning edges nicely. And no doubt as i use it I'll think of other uses.
I have a morticer in the workshop if needed for bigger joints.

But my question is, what accessories do you guys rate and why?

Ive seen conflicting views on whether you need a domi plate etc for instance.
I can buy the domino and a kit of tennons as a package but is it worth it? I'll probably be using the 5 x 30's for jointing 18mm sheet goods mostly, so could buy a box of 300 for 15 quid and then make or buy other sizes as required?

https://www.powertoolmate.co.uk/pow...K52FxtSHuFrawHZPyDgerL7gKwMr2sssaAia3EALw_wcB
Its worth saying i havent used one or seen one in the flesh. Theres countless threads on this stuff but im interested in your real world experiences,
Thanks

 

[Distinterior]

I use my DF500 on predominantly 18mm material, so I leave it set up at that height when I put it away, ready for the next project.

I haven't bothered with many accessories as i haven't found the need for them yet, but i am tempted to get a TSO Bigfoot attachment for it as i think it will help with additional stability when doing mortices on flat large panels and when I'm using the Domino vertically on the end faces.

 

[Spectric]

You really would benefit from trying one out before buying, I don't think they suit everyone but I now suspect the 500 for sheet goods is a better option than a 700 for larger joints, I have a 700 but much prefer my dowel jigs.

Have you seen the videos by @petermillard as he does a lot of flat pack furniture using domino's.

and another not by Peter

 

[petermillard]

I use my DF500 on predominantly 18mm material, so I leave it set up at that height when I put it away, ready for the next project.

I haven't bothered with many accessories as i haven't found the need for them yet, but i am tempted to get a TSO Bigfoot attachment for it as i think it will help with additional stability when doing mortices on flat large panels and when I'm using the Domino vertically on the end faces.

I use the domiplate for largely that reason, but if you're not fanatical about centring the mortice then a piece of ply or MDF attached to the base does much the same job. As Roy kindly points out, I did a set of three videos covering my domino over a decade of professional use. Still going strong, btw. If most of your work is in 18mm sheet goods (mine was) then 5x30 dominos are perfect, and the machine comes with a 5mm cutter; buy a bag of dominos and you're in business, add other cutters and dom. sizes as and when you need them - that's what I did.

HTH P

 

[Jameshow]

What happened to Yorkshire domino machine was it not a success?
Or did festool put the screws on you and you ended up in Dartmoor prison, you been quiet recently, I did wonder why!!

 

[Distinterior]

Does using the Domino inverted not feel wrong and out of balance somehow...?
I'm only asking coz, having never used mine that way, I just imagine it may do...?!

 

[baldkev]

You really would benefit from trying one out before buying, I don't think they suit everyone but I now suspect the 500 for sheet goods is a better option than a 700 for larger joints, I have a 700 but much prefer my dowel jigs.

Have you seen the videos by @petermillard as he does a lot of flat pack furniture using domino's.

and another not by Peter

Yep i have seen a lot of peters videos ive got a couple of built in wardrobes coming up and a corner seat thing to make, plus, eventually i might replace our kitchen, which could be made in the workshop or just buy in premade units, i haven't quite decided.

What happened to Yorkshire domino machine was it not a success?
Or did festool put the screws on you and you ended up in Dartmoor prison, you been quiet recently, I did wonder why!!

It worked, but not flawlessly. I leave the first hole as is, and could widen the others ( sloppy setting ) but it didnt clear the waste very well. Im hoping the domino should be able to whizz through cutting a number of mortices along panel edges using the stops / little locating lugs and just have the first holes as 'tight'.
Unfortunately festool didnt make contact i guess it wasnt enough of a threat to them

 

[baldkev]

The tracksaw rail adapter looks useful

 

[Distinterior]

...... Im hoping the domino should be able to whizz through cutting a number of mortices along panel edges using the stops / little locating lugs and just have the first holes as 'tight'.....

I dont think you will be dissapointed......That's pretty much what mine does for 95% of my usage.

 

[fezman]

I bought mine to build my office furniture (20mm cherry). Worked fantastically well. I bought the kit with DF500, box of dominoes and cutters and a few accessories. Not really used the accessories much, but the trim stop was very useful for the end of rails / stiles. I typically used a single 8mm domino in each joint - still rock solid.

 

[MikeK]

I have both the DF 500 and the DF 700, but use the DF 500 on almost every project. For 18mm and 19mm sheet goods, I mostly use the 5x30 tenons, but sometimes will use the 6x40 tenons.

If you can, I recommend buying the DF 500 Q-Set instead of the DF 500 Q-Plus. The Set is about £100 more than the Plus, but comes with £125 worth of accessories, specifically the QA-DF 500/700 Cross Stop and the LA-DF 500/700 Trim Stop. I use the Cross Stop on long edges of sheet goods. The Trim Stop is very handy if you are making something with a lot of rails, such as Shaker door panels.

The only change I made to my DF 500 is to replace the two clamping levers with the Norelem 06610-50-10586X25 clamp levers. The levers on the DF 500 cannot be easily adjusted for tension like the levers on the DF 700.

 

[petermillard]

The tracksaw rail adapter looks useful

Just as easy to butt the Domino up against the rail tbh.

 

[baldkev]

Just as easy to butt the Domino up against the rail tbh.

Yep, i guess you just have to hold it a bit more steady? Ive seen people clamp a straight board edge to the workpiece and butt the domino agaist that

 

[baldkev]

I bought mine to build my office furniture (20mm cherry). Worked fantastically well. I bought the kit with DF500, box of dominoes and cutters and a few accessories. Not really used the accessories much, but the trim stop was very useful for the end of rails / stiles. I typically used a single 8mm domino in each joint - still rock solid.

Nice project! I need to start working out sketchup.... just not enough time in a day

 

[Doug71]

I do like my Domino.

The only accessory I have for it is the trim stop, I've had that for about 15 years and still not used it

 

[baldkev]

I do like my Domino.

The only accessory I have for it is the trim stop, I've had that for about 15 years and still not used it

Have you used the domino for face frames etc? If so, how did you set it up for the rail ends? I guess you could have a board of ply with 2 battens fixed to it rail width apart, with the rail centred to the domino

 

[Distinterior]

I have the Trim Stop and the Cross Stop.....The Trim Stop has only been used on 2 projects....

 

[Ollie78]

I have a DF 700.
The cross stop is very useful for long tables and stuff. However it is in my opinion criminally under engineered for the money, it works fine but will wobble itself loose at the dovetail clamp thing that holds it on at the drop of a hat.
The trim stop is ok for skinny joints on the end of thin stuff.
Mostly the beauty of the domino is the fact you can just use a pencil line to mark the position and go for it, fast and simple. So the extras are more a luxury than a necessity.

Ollie

 

[baldkev]

I have a DF 700.
The cross stop is very useful for long tables and stuff. However it is in my opinion criminally under engineered for the money, it works fine but will wobble itself loose at the dovetail clamp thing that holds it on at the drop of a hat.
The trim stop is ok for skinny joints on the end of thin stuff.
Mostly the beauty of the domino is the fact you can just use a pencil line to mark the position and go for it, fast and simple. So the extras are more a luxury than a necessity.

Ollie

How accurate do you find it is with a pencil mark? Obviously you have to be careful centering on the line, but id imagine itd be easy to get .5 to a mm out of perfect alignment, as any inconsistency will show on the tight setting

 

[Ollie78]

How accurate do you find it is with a pencil mark? Obviously you have to be careful centering on the line, but id imagine itd be easy to get .5 to a mm out of perfect alignment, as any inconsistency will show on the tight setting

In short, perfectly accurate I put the joint to where I want it and mark both sides with one line. Do one side on the tight setting, the other on the loose setting.
Or if it is a mega critical alignment for some reason, do one central one on the tight setting both sides and all others on loose. Or variations of those.

Ollie