An early Record 52 1/2 vice, finishing options.

[Andy's Shed]

I already have a 1960s version of the same vice fitted to my workbench, but yesterday a much earlier model popped up locally and although it was in a very poor state I couldn't resist buying it for the £30 asking price. This earler model was the one that I really wanted, not sure why but I just find them quite pleasing visually.

The vice was completely covered with rust and the jaws were seized solid, but with some persuasion I dismantled it. Inside the cavity I found lots of sawdust as expected, one nail, one screw and an old pencil split down the middle lengthways /: This model doesn't have a dust cover.

I've spent several hours removing the rust with a wire brush attachment and it's now down to bare metal, other than just a couple of hints of the original blue paint. I was thinking of spray painting it blue again, probably with Hammerite. The thing is that I really do like the appearance of it without any paint at all.

So I'm now wondering if I can get away with just treating the vice with some lacquer, or perhaps even wax?

Thanks for any info.

 

[okeydokey]

Hi
Nice cleanup - if the rest is just as good I would go with a good honest wax you can buff by hand every now and then if you like - plus an advantage of wax is its reversible much easier than trying to remove varnish or paint.
Match it with a few vintage chisels or planes and woo hoo

 

[Andy's Shed]

Hi
Nice cleanup - if the rest is just as good I would go with a good honest wax you can buff by hand every now and then if you like - plus an advantage of wax is its reversible much easier than trying to remove varnish or paint.
Match it with a few vintage chisels or planes and woo hoo

Thanks In fairness the rear part isn't as nice, but it'll be hidden anyway. Wax does sound like the most promising option so far

 

[mikej460]

I like that a lot Andy, I would get some ACF50 and spray a little it all over, leave to dry and wipe off any excess then a couple of coats of machine wax.

 

[Andy's Shed]

I like that a lot Andy, I would get some ACF50 and spray a little it all over, leave to dry and wipe off any excess then a couple of coats of machine wax.

Thanks Mike, I hadn't heard of ACF50 until now. Is machine wax the same as paste wax? Would Beeswax do a similar job?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Paint it with BLO.

 

[pe2dave]

Garage door paint? Blue a close match to original.

 

[Distinterior]

I also like the look of the vice from that era. I have a 52 1/2 which is a little bit later than yours Andy, but very similar.
I think yours dates from sometime shortly after 1918 according to the Record vice history I've read....

"The likely launch date for the new model was 1918, which is the date of the Registered Design that is cast into the front jaw of these vices.
Two face castings were used, the design that omits ‘MADE IN ENGLAND’ is relatively uncommon and is presumably the earlier version"

Mine is also in need of a bit of TLC but I cant decide on how I'm going to protect the surfaces once I've cleaned it all up......Having seen your picture, I'm inclined to go with the " bare" metal/original blue paint remnants look, as it evokes thoughts of its age and history.
Paragon Paints offer a Record Blue paint which is supposed to be a match for the original, but all the pictures I've seen of refurbished vice's, look too good....If that makes sense???

 

[Andy's Shed]

Thanks for your replies folks.

I'm leaning more towards Phil's suggestion of using boiled linseed oil at the moment. Does it need to be heated up after applying, or can it be left to dry naturally? I'm not sure if it's a good idea to put cast iron in our cooker.

Would Danish oil do a similar job?

 

[Andy's Shed]

I also like the look of the vice from that era. I have a 52 1/2 which is a little bit later than yours Andy, but very similar.
I think yours dates from sometime shortly after 1918 according to the Record vice history I've read....

"The likely launch date for the new model was 1918, which is the date of the Registered Design that is cast into the front jaw of these vices.
Two face castings were used, the design that omits ‘MADE IN ENGLAND’ is relatively uncommon and is presumably the earlier version"

Mine is also in need of a bit of TLC but I cant decide on how I'm going to protect the surfaces once I've cleaned it all up......Having seen your picture, I'm inclined to go with the " bare" metal/original blue paint remnants look, as it evokes thoughts of its age and history.
Paragon Paints offer a Record Blue paint which is supposed to be a match for the original, but all the pictures I've seen of refurbished vice's, look too good....If that makes sense???

I feel the same about them sometimes looking a little 'too good, I quite like the aged and used look.

 

[Distinterior]

.....And by the way,...Welcome to the Born in 62 sixty year old club... I've been a member since February this year.

 

[mikej460]

Thanks Mike, I hadn't heard of ACF50 until now. Is machine wax the same as paste wax? Would Beeswax do a similar job?

Either would be ok. I think machine wax leaves a slicker surface.

 

[Andy's Shed]

.....And by the way,...Welcome to the Born in 62 sixty year old club... I've been a member since February this year.

Thanks very much, my wife's also February 62

Either would be ok. I think machine wax leaves a slicker surface.

Thanks Mike.

 

[Myfordman]

The only finish operation needed for a working tool is to use it.
Paint,wax or anything else put on it will not improve its ability to do what is is designed to do

 

[Andy's Shed]

That's a fair comment, thank you.

I'm going to use some boiled linseed oil on the vice, I might as well give it some level of rust protection and also hopefully have it looking fairly reasonable too. Time will tell

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Thanks for your replies folks.

I'm leaning more towards Phil's suggestion of using boiled linseed oil at the moment. Does it need to be heated up after applying, or can it be left to dry naturally? I'm not sure if it's a good idea to put cast iron in our cooker.

Would Danish oil do a similar job?

probably. If you use BLO just leave it for few days in this weather.

 

[Andy's Shed]

I've had the vice sat outside in the sun, it was hot to touch. I've already applied some linseed oil, left it for a while and wiped off the excess as per the instructions on the tin. It's in the shed now with a other coat on, it's drying very quickly in this heat.

The metal now looks darker than if did previously, there are still some silver highlights around the lettering and the edges though.

Should I be wiping the excess off at this stage, I'm just wondering if that applies more to wood as opposed to metal?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

It matters if polishing wood.

 

[rogxwhit]

I think that looks very stylish! Whereas paint will always look like a layer that conceals the material beneath, this is more akin to a patina ...

 

[John Hall]

It’s gone darker because you’ve not actually gone down to bare metal when removing the rust, you’ve only removed a thin layer…The darker parts are where there is still rust remaining.
if it’s staying in a dry atmosphere, a regular run over with a light oil will prevent it from rusting further. The problem with having an oil finish is that it will cause fine wood dust to stick to it…