American Black Walnut Drawer Unit

[motownmartin]

How come you use wire wool to apply it? Surely by doing this you are prone to bits of wire breaking off and contaminating the wood, or the sanding sealer?

Would it not be better to apply with cloth, then cut back with wool when dry?

I tend to use the plastic/nylon abrasive pads, they seem to do the job.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

How come you use wire wool to apply it? Surely by doing this you are prone to bits of wire breaking off and contaminating the wood, or the sanding sealer?

Would it not be better to apply with cloth, then cut back with wool when dry?

Oooops! A senior moment :lol: Sorry the sanding sealer is applied with a cloth. One thing I've learnt over time is when applying it is to only do about a six inch square at a time and before it has time to start going tacky is to wipe it off with a nice clean cloth, doing this makes the cutting back so easy and quick because there are no thick layers to get flat. I've just done the sealer. Tomorrow I'll take a pic of it before and after I've wire wooled it.

 

[jasonB]

Looks good LN but not sure I would have gone for those handles.

BTW The Leigh works for me see here and here and through just follow the book and make sure the cutter suits the timber thickness.

Jason

 

[TonyW]

LN - This is looking really good. Enjoying following your progress

Cheers
Tony

 

[Bean]

I am not sure the drawer pulls are to my taste but i can see why you used them. One thing is certain though its Looking very good.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Looks good LN but not sure I would have gone for those handles.

BTW The Leigh works for me see here and here and through just follow the book and make sure the cutter suits the timber thickness.

Jason

I did follow the book :? and I've watched the video four or five times now. How many times did you have do trial joints before you got the cutter depth correct?

edit.... mind you until I get some replacement fingers and a new dovetail cutter the jig is out of action. Is Brimarc the only place I can get new fingers?

 

[Lukey]

A few people have made comment on tha handles.

I believe the idea of the original poster was to recreate the drawer unit that SWMBO had seen in a magazine, correct?

Now, if this is the case, this is quite a good old copy, including handles:

 

[Lord Nibbo]

A few people have made comment on tha handles.

I believe the idea of the original poster was to recreate the drawer unit that SWMBO had seen in a magazine, correct?

Now, if this is the case, this is quite a good old copy, including handles:

You've just gone on Swmbo's favourite list Lukey :lol:
Your absolutely right, as I said right at the beginning I had no choice but we did discus at some length and did a trial & error with odd sizes as to how big bearing in mind where this piece is finally going to be placed. I must say now that I think they are right for the piece. My final pic will be showing it in it's resting place.

Meanwhile back in the pit..... :lol:

This morning after applying sanding sealer this is what it looked like.

Then after using 0000 wire wool it looked like this.

Then after one coat of Danish oil it looks like.

Couldn't resist a big one. :lol: :lol:

 

[paulm]

Hi LN, looks terrific !

The idea of using a cellulose sanding sealer before the Danish oil is new to me, I've always used the oil straight on the wood. Does this limit the penetration and mean fewer coats ?

Thanks for all the wip pics, great to see !

Chee rs, Paul.

 

[Corset]

Looks ace, I think it is much harder to copy something as you have to follow that design even when it feels wrong. Top Marks
Owen

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Hi LN, looks terrific !

The idea of using a cellulose sanding sealer before the Danish oil is new to me, I've always used the oil straight on the wood. Does this limit the penetration and mean fewer coats ?

Thanks for all the wip pics, great to see !

Chee rs, Paul.

Yes it does mean fewer coats, but in my experience it also gives you a much smoother base and evens out the oil for it's first coat, but remember I intend it to be a satin finish not high gloss.

 

[promhandicam]

LN - I've just worked my way through all your WIP pictures and just want to echo what others have already said - you've done a really great job! It really helps numpties like me to understand how 'tis done to see the progression of the piece from beginning to end so thanks for taking the extra time and effort to post the pictures.

Cheers,

Steve

 

[Paul.J]

Been watching all the way through LN.
Just have to say what a fantastic job you've done.Love the Walnut,great Dovetails.Great all round job
Paul.J.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Been watching all the way through LN.
Just have to say what a fantastic job you've done.Love the Walnut,great Dovetails.Great all round job
Paul.J.

Many thanks Paul and to everyone for their comments which helps a lot in keeping your feet on the ground. :lol:

great dovetails

H'mmm I thought when I started this project I would be competent or get competent in using the Leigh D4, little did I know I would be doing them all by hand again. Still on the brighter side it keeps you in practice. :lol: on a plus side I did manage to put the LN chisels to hard work. :lol:

 

[newt]

I like the drawer pulls, different, nice job.

 

[motownmartin]

You've done a top class job your Lordship, the wood really comes to life when the Danish oil is applied =D> =D> =D>

 

[Woodmagnet]

I too like the drawer pulls L.N., mind you i love solid/chunky looking
things. :wink:

 

[Karl]

That is one seriously good looking piece - well done.

How many coats of oil do you intend on giving it?

Cheers

Karl

 

[p111dom]

Lord Nibbo great looking piece. Please can you tell me...

What brand of sanding sealer did you use and how did you apply it?

I also usually apply danish oil directly to the wood. I always thought a sanding sealer would do just that and seal the pours of the wood. Would this not stop the oil from soaking in? I generally use good quality J Cloths to apply oil. They're lint free, disposable and cheap. What did you use?

 

[Lord Nibbo]

That is one seriously good looking piece - well done.

How many coats of oil do you intend on giving it?

Cheers

Karl

I did a second coat this afternoon, but I will wait till tomorrow to decide if to cut it back again with 0000 wire wool and then give it another coat, looking at it this evening it has quite a sheen on it but Swmbo wants a satin finish so a wax finish put on sparingly with wire wool will be the final touch so to answer the question definitely two maybe three coats.

What brand of sanding sealer did you use and how did you apply it?

It's Briwax Cellulose Sanding Sealer, and the cloth I use is just old cotton tea shirts or an old table cloth (damask type) the table cloth I'm using at the moment is probably over 40 years old :shock: How I put it on is much like doing shellac as it dries very very quickly, so I pour the sealer into a small dish that I can dip a rubber (think shellac) then with rubber in one hand and another clean cloth in the other hand I load the rubber and do a very small area about 5" square no more than that, and as soon as I feel it going tacky I use the clean cloth to wipe off any surplus immediately, I then repeat this doing small squares until I've finished. Applying it like this means I end up with a nice coating with feathered edges with no nasty overlaps and no lines visible. :lol:

edit... the cloth you use to wipe it off with might need changing several times because the surplus your wiping off dries on the cloth which makes it unusable to remove all the surplus, as I have already said once you feel it going tacky you have only seconds to remove it or you'll end up with thick overlaps. :lol:

2nd edit... The Briwax cellulose is very thick (hence the way I apply it) compared to other makes I've seen, I suppose it's down to how much cellulose thinners is in it, some makes are quite fluid. Perhaps someone who knows would care to comment.