Adze

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Richard's pic above gives the general idea, but I suspect adze handles have always been very personalised, each user having their own optimal length & curve. Adzing takes a lot of practice, but once mastered, can produce a beautiful texture. Also good for rapid stock removal and sometimes, I've found, more efficacious than any powered alternative.

I agree with the point about Robt. Thomson's tables being a bit overdone and have almost certainly been sanded after adzing (slightly defeating the point of adzing??). The workmen of old would never have accepted such a finish for a table top; likely adzing to true the thing up, then using planes to produce a flat and smooth surface - still with the beautiful texture which hand-tooling imparts, but much more subtle.

That said, Mouseman is a very successful business and adzing is one of their main motifs - so it clearly strikes a chord with customers. Their adzed work - even if a little overstated, is far more pleasing than the nasty and impersonal products of Ikea, et al.

I would certainly recommend learning to adze - but be sure to wear safety boots. Favoured wear amongst the old Bucks. chair makers were clogs and stout leather gaiters, but even then apparently, not all retired with a full set of toes!
 
Iàm not having ago at any one or going OTT but a adze does not have a handle you don't say hammer handle you say hammer shaft so you say adze helve just as Cheshirechappie said.
I`ve seen a few you tube videos on using the two handed adze but I`ve yet to see one where it is being used correctly. I don't think a Carpenters adze could produce a finish as on that table a scorped adze may be like what a carver would use. A carpenters adze would put to much of a flat finish on it.The helve on the two handed adze is usually made from ash or hickory but you should seek out a piece of stuff that follows the grain for the shape you want because the shape is not only for comfort but for the spring it gives when in use and stops the user from becoming tired to quickly.

The length of the helve is different for every user, after the helve is fitted the user stands over the adze and the helve is cut of just below the dangle bits the reason for this is if the adze hits something you don't want the helve springing back with possible damage to the wedding tackle.

The best use of the two handed adze is with the stock at waist height and reading the grain, come at the piece from the opposite direction of the grain and chop into it every 3" or so and then come at it with the grain and you can really remove a lot of material but controlled.

Using the adze like this it is better with with both arms free of the body and the upper torso swinging behind it,but every thing is still worked on a radius.

I have heard of the foot adze,but only on the internet, where people swing the adze to cut under the sole of the boot, YEA OK, my opinion of this is they must be smoking something very funny,







.
 
I went to this pub some years ago.

http://www.green-dragon-inn.co.uk/gallery.php

It's furnished throughout the drinking areas with Robert Thompson's furniture. If you look at the 'Gallery' picture of the round tables, (in the window bay) you can just see the mouse, on the edge of the far table. The pub is well-worth a visit if you're in the area.

Mark, Have you thought about a visit to the Thompson works. I believe they do conduct tours. It can't be all that far from you.
Just a thought.
HTH

Just noticed the close-up of the mouse too!

John :)
 
I do fancy a trip around. It isn't very local but is on an alternative way to Whitby, to which we go on the odd occasion.

It would make a nice day out, there must be a few nice pubs around for a spot of lunch too!
 
Here's a picture of an adze being used for substantal shaping. I was amazed by the size of both the cut marks
and the chips!

chair_adze.jpg


it's from a book by Jack Hill.

bugBear
 

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That's a really useful illustration. You can see that his right arm is providing the power and that the cut will be limited by his left hand slapping against his thigh.

For the beginner, you can screw a couple of 2x3s to a flat board to hold the work, and stand with your feet further away from the line of the cut.
 
My abiding memory of adze work was during the early 60's while working on bridgeworks for The Canadian Pacific Railway in the mountains of British Colombia. Some of the bridges were still the traditional timber trestle type and it was pure joy to watch the senior carpenter shape the baulk timbers with his razor-sharp adze. From memory he sharpened it with a fine carborundum stone.

John
 
Don't know what you mean, its in look again!

:oops:

:wink:

Pete
 
Billy Flitch":2ji4pc94 said:
. I don't think a Carpenters adze could produce a finish as on that table a scorped adze may be like what a carver would use. A carpenters adze would put to much of a flat finish on it.
.

A normal carpenter's adze sharpened with a slight camber produces that scalloped texture - the curved ones cut far too deeply for a flat(ish) surface, they're designed for heavy stock removal.
 
Nice links there Richard.

I remember watching a long video, possibly a TV documentary, about someone building a historical replica ship. It included some scenes of shipbuilders in Cairo using adzes to shape huge curved timbers to fit together perfectly watertight.

Does that ring bells with anyone (with better bookmarks/memory than me)?
 
Someone on a TV programme the other night was being shown how to use an adze, in what was once Devonport Dockyard. Yes, they did use them in shipbuilding, especially to shape the keel and the prow. It was probably on 'Coast' or 'Countryfile'.
It will come to me! :mrgreen:
 
bugbear":2hajskob said:
I saw a Robert Thompson table in an upmarket shop, with an (over)worked top, to my eye.

The candle stick the shop had placed just could not sit securely on the damn thing. I don't suppose
a plate or saucer would fare any better.

IMG_9230.jpg


I hate the "look at me" adze marks on that table.

BugBear

I agree, that looks absurd.

It's not just that it's beyond agricultural in its crudeness, but also that you'd never see adze marks that have been applied after the boards for the top have been jointed, it's just a ridiculous Disney fantasy of a table.

But in answer to the OP. I've used a curved adze for saddling a chair seat, and I've used a straight adze in boat building. Both are pretty basic shaping tools, but the straight adze in particular is very very prone to tearing out the grain. They're fun tools to use, but personally if I wanted tool marks I'd rather get them from a heavily cambered plane or even a hatchet, both of which offer lots more control.
 
I favour tool marks, to a point. Just the gentle undulations you get from planing a long, wide top. But certainly not enough to tip over glasses!
 
bugbear":10m0fdph said:
I saw a Robert Thompson table in an upmarket shop, with an (over)worked top, to my eye.

The candle stick the shop had placed just could not sit securely on the damn thing. I don't suppose
a plate or saucer would fare any better.

IMG_9230.jpg


I hate the "look at me" adze marks on that table.

BugBear

Absolutely hideous! It's a Super Mega Fugly!

I detest adze finishes at the best of times but that (no doubt insanely priced) example just reinforces that belief even further.
 
When I was a lad the last batch of wooden 37' RNLI lifeboats that we worked on had the keels shaped by adze. This was done by the two oldest boatbuilders in the company who still had the nack. As a plater apprentice I wasn't supposed to gaze upon such things, but I did in awe and wonder - happy days.
 
Interesting to say the least, a Carpenters adze while having a cambered cutting edge also has a flat face so when you attempt to make a scolloped inundation you find that what happens is the back of the adze strikes the piece and bounces off. Both of the adze edges left and right cut into the stock and rag it out, the Carpenters adze is meant to create curves not scollops .

On the other hand the gutter adze that has shoulders (ie up stands) on both sides of the cutting edges can produce a scolloped finish and also a good curved edge to the stock.


The secret with the adze is ,its a tool make it do what you want it to do but treat it with respect.
 
AndyT":6t9km8ut said:
Nice links there Richard.

I remember watching a long video, possibly a TV documentary, about someone building a historical replica ship. It included some scenes of shipbuilders in Cairo using adzes to shape huge curved timbers to fit together perfectly watertight.

Does that ring bells with anyone (with better bookmarks/memory than me)?

Yes I remember that! But I only saw a bit of it. I think it may have been this: http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/ancient/bu ... -ship.html
 
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