Advice: Router table upgrade vs spindle moulder

[ormandge]

Hi all,

I'm after some advice. I've got a generic router table, with a Rutlands R15 router lift and motor combo in. The table itself has pressed angle legs, so is pretty unstable, and the fences aren't aligned as the outfeed side has a slight lip. I need to move the workpiece off the fence to get past the lip, which gives me the willies each time I do it. There is no adjustment mechanism for the fence. I appreciate I could potentially make something to resolve this.

I'm just a hobbyist, so I don't need a production workhorse, but I do find the functionality of a router table useful so would like to upgrade to something.

All that is to say, I've been looking at options:
- I can get one of the Rutlands tables, which obviously the lift would fit in to. Cost would be ~£500 for laminate, ~£700 for phenolic, ~£800 for cast.
- I looked at the UJK pro table which is 20% off at the moment, but seems to use a non-standard size lift so I'd need to change that - additional cost. Roughly £1000 for table + lift (I'll keep the existing router motor, sell the R15 lift).
- Alternatively I'd considered the Charnwood W030 spindle moulder as I believe there's a 1/2" collet to use router bits. Cost for this is ~£900.
- I can potentially get a 2nd hand SIP 01456 tilting spindle moulder, assuming it's still available once I've made a decision (!). This would be ~£850 delivered.

Going the spindle moulder route, I'd just be using it as a router table initially, as I already have 1/2" bits. I would then look to pick up spindle moulder bits as and when.

The options are all in the same ballpark in terms of cost, so from that point of view either of the options works.

If you have any opinions or ideas, I'm all ears!

 

[Jake]

Most spindle moulders can't do the speed necessary for router bits so there's no easy in-between - the ones that can need a change of spindle and tend to be very expensive and even then only do speeds suitable for large router bits.

Spindle moulders are great, I have a small one (an EB TF100), but it gets much much less use in practice than my router table. If there's enough of a run to make it worth the tooling cost and set up time then it gets a go. I don't think it is as straightforward as others on here do as to which is preferable for a diy/hobby type useage. Plainly the SM is a better trade/industrial tool, but if your more likely task is, say, running a quick trench then a round-over on a few metres - I'd say less than 50m - of stock, it'd be router table for me every time just for set up time reasons even if I already had the right block/knives for the SM.

 

[ormandge]

Thanks Jake, that's a really useful response. I think based on that, I'll give the SM a miss and take a look at a replacement router table.

 

[Kayen]

Buy one of the readily available inset plates and make your own. At most it will cost you £100, but probably a lot less.

 

[ormandge]

Thanks Kayen! I had considered making my own, but figured that by the time I've picked up steel/aluminium to make a solid frame, some reasonable material for the top, hardware for mitre slots and fence guides, feet for levelling, castors for moving, I think I'd be closer to £150-200.

Then consider the time I'd have to spend making it, and how little time I have as it is, I'd rather just spend the money and use the time saved for my hobby.

Might be the wrong way to look at it, but I think buying something complete is the way I'd rather go.

 

[Amplidyne]

Most spindle moulders can't do the speed necessary for router bits so there's no easy in-between - the ones that can need a change of spindle and tend to be very expensive and even then only do speeds suitable for large router bits.

Spindle moulders are great, I have a small one (an EB TF100), but it gets much much less use in practice than my router table. If there's enough of a run to make it worth the tooling cost and set up time then it gets a go. I don't think it is as straightforward as others on here do as to which is preferable for a diy/hobby type useage. Plainly the SM is a better trade/industrial tool, but if your more likely task is, say, running a quick trench then a round-over on a few metres - I'd say less than 50m - of stock, it'd be router table for me every time just for set up time reasons even if I already had the right block/knives for the SM.

Just what I'd say. Spidle moulder has it's uses. but much more "industrial" kit. Longer runs with one setup etc.
Router table has it for small jobs every time. I have both, but I've used the router table much more.

 

[Diver Fred]

How about This - mate is chuffed with his.

 

[Jacob]

A smallish router as a hand tool makes sense but the bigger they go the less "handy" they are, and a spindle starts looking like a better option.
Supply becomes the issue - 2.5kw makes a big router but a very small spindle moulder - 5kw is more like it but you'd need 3 phase.
What you get with a spindle moulder, ideally with a power feed but not essential, is fast throughput and unvarying precision. You can stand there all day feeding through small or large mouldings, glazing bars to door frames, and every one perfect.
Personally I hate routers - the noise, the dust, not to mention the errors, but a big spindle moulder is a pleasure to use.

 

[deema]

Well, interesting views about the router table versus a spindle. Now, I’m a spindle man through and though. I’ve used a router table, and can say categorically I can setup up a spindle faster than a router table. I’m fairly sure that in a ‘shoot out’ with someone used to setting up a router table it would be a very close thing on who was quickest.

In terms of length of stuff you can put through a spindle, the shortest I will run is 50 cm, which is also about the shortest I’d put over my planner thicknesser. I would say that putting 50cm though a spindle with a power feed is far safer and will produce a better result than any router table without a power feed.

Lastly, on a router the biggest diameter of the shaft on a router is 1/2 inch. In my experience it doesn’t take much to bend / brake a 1/2” shaft especially if you take too large a cut / hurt up the cut. If it does let go, it’s going to get exciting! A spindle with a 30mm shaft isn’t going to care what depth of cut you take or how much you hurry up the cut…..it isn’t going to brake or bend.

 

[Jacob]

A smallish router as a hand tool makes sense but the bigger they go the less "handy" they are, and a spindle starts looking like a better option.
Supply becomes the issue - 2.5kw makes a big router but a very small spindle moulder - 5kw is more like it but you'd need 3 phase.
What you get with a spindle moulder, ideally with a power feed but not essential, is fast throughput and unvarying precision. You can stand there all day feeding through small or large mouldings, glazing bars to door frames, and every one perfect.
Personally I hate routers - the noise, the dust, not to mention the errors, but a big spindle moulder is a pleasure to use.

PS I'd add: for straight-through mouldings, slots, rebates, large or small, the spindle is utterly superior. There's very little you can do with a router which can't be done much better with a spindle. If you venture into grinding your own cutters the spindle is also very much cheaper to tool up, particularly if you want to replicate any particular moulding.