Advice please - cleaning the inside angles of joints

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Pabs

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I've been practicing my handtool joinery and have this dowelled half lap joint (I did use a power drill with a forstner for the dowel) but the rest I'm trying to develop my handtool skills
20230127_182048.jpeg
- I've cleaned most of it up with my bench plane and 60-80-120g sandpaper but the inside 90deg angles I'm having trouble getting rid of some squeeze-out. At present I don't have a plane that can get in there likethat so have been using a large chisel as a kind of scraper with the back of the bevel as a cutting edge and the chisel held around 30deg to the surface

is this the correct way to do this with a chisel?

Thanks
 
Best to clean up with a damp sponge before glue goes off, but yes a chisel will do it.
 
Inside edges to be cleaned up before assembly. Planing or sanding after the event is not ideal. Avoid buying a specialist tool. A damp rag and a chisel kept for cleaning off wet glue should help you in the future.
 
A good masking tape placed in the corners before the glue up will keep the excess glue at bay. Takes extra time though. After the clamps are on wipe the excess off with a damp rag and then pull off the tape. Better is to not use so much glue. A tiny drop or two of squeeze out signifies there is enough. Gobs coming out of every seam is a waste, unnecessary and is just making more work for yourself.

Pete
 
I usually use a damp clean cotton cloth rapped around a chrome rule, I don't want to make my chisel go rusty or risk a chemical reaction between timber, steel and water/glue. You will get serious staining on any high tannin timbers. If the corner is moulded or curved I would use a damp tooth brush.

https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/fisher-satin-chrome-rule-150mm-6/
Cheers

Peter
 
Thanks all. All the advice is great -
@Jacob Thanks, that's given me an idea - might put a sponge ball on an old set of artery clamps (not a novel idea they already do this up t'hospital) but might help get under the clamps
@Peter Sefton have you had that happen? some sort of oxidation residue? I like the idea of wrapping a steel flat surface for very gentle abrasion. I hadn't thought of anything like that ditto with the tape idea @Inspector so thank you.
 
Thanks all. All the advice is great -
@Jacob Thanks, that's given me an idea - might put a sponge ball on an old set of artery clamps (not a novel idea they already do this up t'hospital) but might help get under the clamps
@Peter Sefton have you had that happen? some sort of oxidation residue? I like the idea of wrapping a steel flat surface for very gentle abrasion. I hadn't thought of anything like that ditto with the tape idea @Inspector so thank you.
Yes black or purple staining is not un common, you will also get it if you have been grinding steel near oak, cherry or chestnut.
 
Thanks all. All the advice is great -
@Jacob Thanks, that's given me an idea - might put a sponge ball on an old set of artery clamps (not a novel idea they already do this up t'hospital) but might help get under the clamps
@Peter Sefton have you had that happen? some sort of oxidation residue? I like the idea of wrapping a steel flat surface for very gentle abrasion. I hadn't thought of anything like that ditto with the tape idea @Inspector so thank you.
If you use steel clamps like the old Records they mark and stain very easily if there's any damp around, including just the glue itself. I tend to use parcel sticky tape or masking tape, stuck either to the clamp itself or over the workpiece and under the clamps
 
thanks @Jacob & @Peter Sefton I think I'm familiar with it actually - I've seen this effect with my cast dumbells leaving marks on ex-SWMBO's lovely carpet. The new SWMBO doesn't like stupid light carpets and has allowed me the entire garage use as a 'reflective space'. depsite this it would be nice to minimise markings and I've learnt the hard way with my old record bench vice that I was justing for joint pracitce, I have now lined them with fibregrip type stuff.

Thanks. This kind of stuff is difficult to learn through self-teaching and can only really be passed on from experience.
 
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