Advice On Rust--Using Abrasives

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Mikegtr

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A few questions regarding rust removal on machinery / hand tools. ('Newbe' to this topic)

a) Are 3M pads the way to go? There are other unknown makes on the market--go for 3M for quality / longer lasting? Can 3M pads be cleaned--washed?
b) Do you use the pads dry or wet--if wet WD40? Light '3 in One' oil?--other?
c) Do you know a source where I could buy an assortment pack--different grades of pad--as opposed to buying single grades--as 3M pretty expensive.
d) Or would you use Silicon Carbide paper?
e) Or Wet and Dry paper using WD40? '3 in One' oil?--other?

Your advice welcome.
 
A few questions regarding rust removal on machinery / hand tools. ('Newbe' to this topic)

a) Are 3M pads the way to go? There are other unknown makes on the market--go for 3M for quality / longer lasting? Can 3M pads be cleaned--washed?
b) Do you use the pads dry or wet--if wet WD40? Light '3 in One' oil?--other?
c) Do you know a source where I could buy an assortment pack--different grades of pad--as opposed to buying single grades--as 3M pretty expensive.
d) Or would you use Silicon Carbide paper?
e) Or Wet and Dry paper using WD40? '3 in One' oil?--other?

Your advice welcome.
I use wet n dry a lot, wet with white spirit, on a cork block, or a flat plate, etc. Very cheap and very effective. Wet with water if you remember to dry it off pronto.
3M diapads are very pricy but they seem to last - I bought some 20 years ago to clean up a Derbyshire Marble fireplace and I've still got them - good for freshening up oil stones etc.
 
TBH I'd use anything that I had to hand that was abrasive enough. You're living in a moist climate....live with it !!;)
 
I find light surface rust shifts with those green kitchen pads and wd40. If the rust is a bit heavier and the kitchen pad is not doing it then 240 grit paper and wd40. After its clean then a rub with paste wax.
Regards
John
 
I use grey pads equivalent to Scotchbrite but cheaper, when they get a bit worn they get relegated to cleaning up tools and such. Can't have oils everywhere here so use them dry, then thin wax on tables & planes etc.
 
Oils getting onto wood can be bad news when it comes to painting (build guitars). Usually dodge rust altogether by ventilating the place at the end of a day but sometimes forget and next morning can find rust on things.
 
Bit of turps or spirit and a paper towel will wipe any oil off before the wax. I have not had any finishing problems but I do avoid anything with silicone in it. You can use turps instead of oil with the pad or sandpaper if you like. Trying to remove all the rust dry sounds like a long job and likely spreading rust dust around the workshop.
Regards
John
 
Hi John,
I do sometimes use white spirit. Generally don't get a lot of rust thankfully and spend little time fighting it. Bare steel usually lasts OK in there, some is years old and rust-free. I use panel wipe all the time, but been bitten by oil on wood once, I'm just not going there again,
cheers
bill
 
I have used a few different methods over the past couple of years restoring old metal toolset follows

Frosts Rust remover good but pricy doesn’t last that long
Clit Bang very good but messy
Drill wire brushes good for getting into tight spaces - dusty/messy
Bench grinder wire wheel good and not too aggressive - dusty/messy
Bench grinder 3m fibre wheel excellent can be a bit aggressive
Bench grinder coarse medium and fine scotch brite wheels brilliant
Bench grinder Flap wheels brilliant for final finishing/ polishing
Hand grinder flap discs can be a bit aggressive
Hand grinder fibre disc brilliant
Belt sanders very good if carefully used

I use a dust extractor helps a lot
 
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