Want to put an end vice on my bench , was thinking of getting the cheapest axminster one @£13.50, its basic , without quick release or dog. Is this a mistake, does one need to invest heavily in a vice? What would be the best , reasonably priced vice in the forums opinion? thanks , paulc.[/url]
Advice on End Vice
- Thread starter paulc
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engineer one
Established Member
so i guess the question is why do you want to put one on??
what do you think you are going to do that makes it preferable to a side vice,in your particular case???
why not try with adjustable dogs and no vice, say the veritas ones, and then decide about an end vice.
always seems bad to invest in a new product without understanding what you want to do with it.
paul :wink:
what do you think you are going to do that makes it preferable to a side vice,in your particular case???
why not try with adjustable dogs and no vice, say the veritas ones, and then decide about an end vice.
always seems bad to invest in a new product without understanding what you want to do with it.
paul :wink:
A
Anonymous
Guest
I have the axminster screw and find it is very well made. Happy customer
Hi Paul,
I have just done exactly what you describe. I originally wanted to use a Veritas “Wonder Dog” but they don't seem to be available at the moment. So I bought the 150 mm Axminster vice and fitted it to my bench as an end vice. The bench top is made of B&Q 4x2 CLS with a double layer if 18 mm MDF on top so it is quite thick and substantial. The vice is not very big so I had to recess it into the underside if the bench by about 40 mm. I fitted a hardwood face to the moving jaw of the vice and drilled that to take a 3/4" round bench dog. Unfortunately, when I clamp a piece of stock between the tail vice and one of the dogs in the bench top, it tends to push up at the tail vice end. This is despite the vice having toe-in (the jaws meet at the top edge first) and the bench dog also having an angled face. I might try adding some shims where the vice mounts on the underside of the bench to effectively increase the toe-in and see if that helps. The vice also tends to rack a fair bit if I clamp a piece of stock at one edge but that would probably happen with any cheap vice.
I have just done exactly what you describe. I originally wanted to use a Veritas “Wonder Dog” but they don't seem to be available at the moment. So I bought the 150 mm Axminster vice and fitted it to my bench as an end vice. The bench top is made of B&Q 4x2 CLS with a double layer if 18 mm MDF on top so it is quite thick and substantial. The vice is not very big so I had to recess it into the underside if the bench by about 40 mm. I fitted a hardwood face to the moving jaw of the vice and drilled that to take a 3/4" round bench dog. Unfortunately, when I clamp a piece of stock between the tail vice and one of the dogs in the bench top, it tends to push up at the tail vice end. This is despite the vice having toe-in (the jaws meet at the top edge first) and the bench dog also having an angled face. I might try adding some shims where the vice mounts on the underside of the bench to effectively increase the toe-in and see if that helps. The vice also tends to rack a fair bit if I clamp a piece of stock at one edge but that would probably happen with any cheap vice.
Paul Chapman
Established Member
The best sort of ordinary vice is the Record 52D which comes with a built in dog. Not sure if they still do a choice of quick release or plain screw, but if they do the plain screw is cheaper and quite adequate. I have two on my bench and they will out-live me. If you want to go for a cheaper, lightweight vice you can fit a dog in the wooden facing as in this picture
This is a lightweight Record #57 Woodcraft vice that I've had for years and is fitted to a top that I clamp in my Workmate. Always fit the dog as close to the screw as possible so as to avoid racking. I find it works quite well, although you will have to make the wooden facing quite thick and that will reduce the effective size of the jaw opening.
Cheers :wink:
Paul
This is a lightweight Record #57 Woodcraft vice that I've had for years and is fitted to a top that I clamp in my Workmate. Always fit the dog as close to the screw as possible so as to avoid racking. I find it works quite well, although you will have to make the wooden facing quite thick and that will reduce the effective size of the jaw opening.
Cheers :wink:
Paul
RogerS
Established Member
It always surprises me that round dogs are used in this application. I know that a round hole is easier to drill than a square one but surely with a rectangular/square dog, the pressure is spread across a larger area rather than over a small area as with a round dog...with likelihood of denting the material?
Roger Sinden":2tpycuso said:
Round dogs are easier to retro-fit to an existing bench. If/when I replace my bench I will probably opt for rectangular dogs as hardwood will be kinder to edge tools than metal. I do also have a number or "Workmate" type dogs, which also need a round hole. Incidentally, I found that I needed to ream out the 3/4" holes to 20 mm to get the B&D dogs to fit.
Paul Chapman
Established Member
Roger Sinden":29l6cswc said:
Although I didn't use it in the picture I posted, I always use a piece of wood between the dog and the workpiece to prevent denting. One advantage of round dogs is that they are better IMHO for gripping non-square pieces. If you are worried about catching plane blades on the metal dogs, it's easy enough to make wooden ones.
Cheers :wink:
Paul
Lord Nibbo
Established Member
Paul Chapman":j6jo29h1 said:
Yes I've got square metal ones but for the reasons you state I use 18mm ply off cuts more often than not, infact I use the same offcuts as packing pieces as well.
