Advice on buying vintage Wadkin BRA radial arm saw

[mr_offcut]

Hi guys I'm in the market for a vintage Wadkin BRA radial arm saw. As I understand it they were made in 14 and 16 inch. Looking for the 14".

There is one Kinda near me, but the guy says it's only 9". And the riving knife looks like it is close to the blade, so it looks like that's all it can take. Thing is i can't find any reference to a 9" Wadkin RAS. Did they exist?

Anyone have a 14", could they measure the blade guard?

Are there any specific things to look out for on the BRAs?

Also moving these things, Can two men lift one? Or should it be broken down?

Thanks

 

[guineafowl21]

I only know of the 350 and 450 (14” and 16”). Maybe it’s one of those but has a 9” blade fitted, and custom riving knife? The riving knife is normally removed for crosscut work.

I have a 350. What blade guard dimensions are you looking for?

Check the usual things, including play in the arbour, and also that all the rotation latches work and clamp properly. Often, the clamp levers are broken off, as is the rise/fall handle.

Check for play in carriage rail bearings, and that they are present and correct - play can be adjusted out but new bearings are very expensive.

Two men could lift/drag one, hoist one end onto a trailer/truck bed, and slide it home no problem. Just remember to lock the carriage before starting.

They’re usually three phase - is that ok for you?

Brilliant machines - quickest thing to set up for repeated, accurate crosscuts, and tenons/laps of pretty much any size. I’m actually using mine now for tenoning.

Good for ripping too (14” will do 8” rips if timber is flipped end-for-end), but you must set it up right. Ask here for advice if you want to do that. Many are frightened by it, but it’s all in the set-up.

 

[mr_offcut]

Thanks for your detailed response, exactly what i wanted. It seems pointless to get a flimsy RAS, so I'm glad about your description. Also that it stay at the correct angles. Dados and tennoning were my main motivation over a sliding miter.

I intend to use a VFD, as this will allow the blade to be slowed down if required. I currently have a 'static phase converter' for my 1hp TS. If the motor gets bogged down, the start cap is not automatically re-engaged. While this can be addressed, it actually helps with kickback. If the blade pinches, it stops. You only get to push against 2/3hp. Not saying this setup can be applied to a 7hp motor. But it's probably saved me twice.

Its a 12' x 15' home workshop. So sheet goods are a little difficult to handle, but at the end of the RAS table are doors. A small flap at the side of the doors would allow me to rip an 8x4 (using the small flap door and regular door together like barn doors). I've been reading up on ripping, I think if I follow the safety advice I should be fine. May add some additional start/stop switches, as the typical bench mount type is inaccessible when you have half ripped an 8x4. I should imagine ripping backwards turns it into a terrifying monster & ruins it.

The dimension I'm after is best said with a picture:

 

[deema]

Check the bearings in the track, as @guineafowl21 says they are eye watering expensive to replace. The other thing to check is the spindle, nut and the hex slot in the end of the spindle. The motor is a special, so if it needs replacing the machine is really only good for spares / scrap. The last major item is the bridge casting that holds the motor. Verify it isn’t cracked, they can be if the motor has been removed by an ape. Other than that, they are just about bullet proof.

You will better off with a digital phase converter (DFC) rather than a VFD. VFD’s have a maximum number of switch on / off in a given oeriod which is usually too few for a RAS. The DFC has the advantage you just plug it in and play and can use it for other 3 phase stuff.

 

[guineafowl21]

^ That blade guard looks the same size as mine, in proportion to the other parts of the saw. It looks like you have the anti-kickback bar on the back for ripping, but I’d be looking for a proper riving knife, or make one.

I had one kickback with mine, early on, which would not have been prevented by kickback pawls. The just-cut piece migrated sideways and into the rear teeth, and was propelled right past me. That’s when I made the riving knife, and nice long push sticks.

Re: VFD, my 350 motor is 3hp and was wound in permanent star (400V only). If yours is the same you’ll need a 400V output VFD. I did dig out the star point for delta (240V) use with a normal VFD, but instead found a 10hp rotary converter.

Looks to be in good nick. Snap it up!

 

[mr_offcut]

My TS was permanent star. Had to dig into the winding to get delta. PITA, but its happy now. Thanks for the heads up.

Oh that one is on vintagemachinery.org. The pics of the one in question aren't great, here are a couple:
There is a space between the riving knife and blade, but if it 9" "tooth-to-tooth" then looks like 10 is max? But the proportions look right to me, so no further the wiser?

 

[guineafowl21]

My guard is 420mm as pictured in post #3.

Not sure what you’ve got there. If it is 9” then it might be worth waiting for a proper 350/400 to come on sale.

 

[deema]

There was a dinky Wadkin RAS which the one in the photo looks like.
I might have a factory single phase full size Wadkin RAS that could be for sale which is properly dialed in (it’s my own) if a friend decides not to buy it.