Advice about best tool to use for project

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Hello, I am a teacher and wish to make some adjustments to the equipment in my classroom. In the construction area there are wooden planks about 5mm thick with holes along the middle. The children join them with wooden screws to build things. We needed some new screws but the only one we could find are 1mm bigger thank the holes.

What is the best way to make the holes 2mm bigger?
 
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Yep as above a 2mm or 3 mm or whatever size you need . Are these ( screws) threaded or tapered dowels . If these screws are 1mm bigger than the originals won’t they just fall through if you make the holes 2mm bigger - if you follow me ..
 
Are the holes threaded for the wooden screws or smooth sided? If smooth then just running a larger drill through will do but if threaded then you need a tap(threading tool) to match the thread on the new screws.
Some pictures would help explain just what needs doing plus the diameter of the holes and the new screws.
Regards
John
 
For opening out a hole in relatively thin material, I wonder if a drill bit is the best choice.

I would think there is a good chance of chipping or splintering. The items are to be used by children so that would seem a problem.

Maybe some abrasive paper glued to a dowel and spun in a cordless drill woud sand the holes larger.

As above, the diameter of the existing holes and also the number of holes requiring modification will influence the best method.

If there are lots to do, and a drill press is available, a forstner bit, a locating jig and a sacrificial board under would be clean and quick for 100 pieces. But the machine might not be there and for only three pieces it would be too much work.
 
A drill in a drill press is essential. You need a supporting scrap under the hole to avoid breakout and position the hole accurately. A hardwood like beech works best as it's virtually splinter free.
 
@Fallingstar_lulu1
It would help the members to give you the right advice if they could see a photograph or two of the equipment you want to modify. You have given a good description but that doesn't provide all the information we need and a picture is worth a thousand words.

Also, can you say a word or two about your (and any helpers') experience with woodwork and whether you have access to tools and a workshop.

Thanks and welcome to UKW.
 
Hi everyone thank you for your responses, it's very kind of you all to try to help.

my initial thought was a slighter larger drill bit but then a family member said no it would damage it? The holes aren't threaded, just smooth. They measure 14mm and it is an only just that the screws don't fit so looking to make them 2mm bigger so the screws fit through.

I have basic diy experience, fab at putting stuff together, drilling holes in walls/pallets and currently only have basic tools eg drill with less than 10mm drill bits and a vice in my garage.

I have a carrier bag full of these to do.

Someone suggested a sandpapering tool that goes in the drill but wouldn't know what it is actually called to look for one. Another family family member suggested a step drill bit, but I've never used one of these and wouldn't know if it's right for the job.

I dont mind buying something that will do the job but dont want to waste my money.
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2mm off ( and you say you have a bag full ) is a lot of work and even more dust . Imo the best tool would be a Forstner bit but the difficulty then is alignment of the bit to the existing hole and the best tool for this would be again ( just my opinion ) is a bench drill. How important is the accuracy? I think screw is the wrong as pegs or dowels seem more appropriate. My thoughts are still asking me what prevents the screws or rods from falling straight through . Then if this is not an issue wouldn’t it be easier to replace the ( screws) with a slightly larger diameter? ..
 
If you have or can borrow a router you could drill a hole 2mm bigger in another piece of wood, fix it over the smaller hole then use a router with a pattern bit to copy the bigger hole onto the smaller one, Once you've done one length with all five holes you can use it as a pattern for the rest
 
Someone suggested a sandpapering tool that goes in the drill but wouldn't know what it is actually called to look for one. Another family family member suggested a step drill bit, but I've never used one of these and wouldn't know if it's right for the job.
Step drill is best suited to thin materials like sheet metal. It is a cone shaped drill that has steps so you can't drill all the way through and normally only cuts ~5mm depth for each 'step'. So not really suitable for doing what you want.

sandpaper will work but will take a while if you have loads to do. Something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121998990171 might work but no idea how long it would take or if they would last long enough to do that many holes (that's just an example as that is coming from china so depends if you want to wait or try another seller in the uk).

As above I think most of us would use a router and jig but that is expensive and requires an experienced person to do it.

If you tried the little drill drum sander at least it wouldn't cost too much if it didn't work.

As always with sanding with high speed tools though, wear a mask and goggles.
 
...the difficulty then is alignment of the bit to the existing hole...

From the picture, the hole appears centred on the long edge of the piece, so a back fence would get it right for one direction. Use a drill bit of the same size as the existing hole, held in the chuck poked into one of the holes for initial alignment. That would also align the short end of the piece so you could fit a perpendicular stop for the the two end holes.

Drill all the end holes with the bigger bit, then swap back to the smaller bit and rest the end stop for the next pair of holes. Drill all of them and reset the stop a final time for the centre hole.

A variation on the theme is to set the fences first on a backing piece, align the whole contraption with the smaller drill bit and then clamp it down to the drill press table. Which of the two options is preferable depends on what is easier - clamping the jig to the drill press or resetting the fence.
 
@Fallingstar_lulu1 We could be here for days coming up with ways this could be done.

If you tell us where you are, there may be someone on here that is local to you that could help, or check out your local Joiners/carpenters and ask them, failing that you can send them to me and I'll drill them out (or even make new ones) for the price of P&P.
 
2mm off ( and you say you have a bag full ) is a lot of work and even more dust . Imo the best tool would be a Forstner bit but the difficulty then is alignment of the bit to the existing hole and the best tool for this would be again ( just my opinion ) is a bench drill. How important is the accuracy? I think screw is the wrong as pegs or dowels seem more appropriate. My thoughts are still asking me what prevents the screws or rods from falling straight through . Then if this is not an issue wouldn’t it be easier to replace the ( screws) with a slightly larger diameter? ..
There is bolts for the screws. The holes don't have to be 100% accurate. Thanks for the advice.
 
@Fallingstar_lulu1 We could be here for days coming up with ways this could be done.

If you tell us where you are, there may be someone on here that is local to you that could help, or check out your local Joiners/carpenters and ask them, failing that you can send them to me and I'll drill them out (or even make new ones) for the price of P&P.
Hi thanks for that, I'm in Nottinghamshire. If I can't find any one local, if you would be willing for me to send them to you and I'll pay p and p that would be great. I'll have a look around. Thanks for your help.
 
Step drill from both sides and go slowly so that the 'step' for the next size gives the hole a little chamfer. No need to use a drill press or jigs because it will self centre.
 
Step drill from both sides and go slowly so that the 'step' for the next size gives the hole a little chamfer. No need to use a drill press or jigs because it will self centre.
Or maybe even better use a conecut similar but no steps, yes it would be tapered from both sides but as the material is thin not so bad, also a probably wouldn’t splinter the Beech.
Ian
 
I'm unsure of the main issue
Are the screws really bolts that just freely slide through the hole and then through another piece of wood and then a wooden nut tightens the two parts together?
 
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