Adjuster length OK when using thicker plane blade?

[Skelp]

I've almost sharpened the stock blade of my number 5 plane to oblivion and I thought I may as well upgrade to a Hock or (?) aftermarket blade. One thing that concerns me is the length of the tongue (incorrect nomenclature?) on the end of the adjuster.

It performs adequately with the stock blade, but if the aftermarket blades are much thicker, will the adjuster still function properly? Is there a modification I will need to make to the adjuster, or is there an aftermarket 'fix'?

 

[tnimble]

The Hock and LN aftermarket blades are an excellentblades (can't really comment on the Ray Iles as I've not yet used bench plane blades from him, but the other blades he makes is excellent)

You will most probably have no problems with the depth adjuster Y lever length. You will have problems if your fitting a Clifton, LN or LV replacement blade which are meant for their onw planes.

I would advice not only to replace your worn blade but also upgrade the chip breaker. Both Clifton and Hock make good chip breakers, I prever the build of the Ron Hock one.

 

[Jeff Gorman]

Skelp wrote:

>I've almost sharpened the stock blade of my number 5 plane to oblivion and I thought I may as well upgrade to a Hock or (?) aftermarket blade. One thing that concerns me is the length of the tongue (incorrect nomenclature?) on the end of the adjuster.<

It performs adequately with the stock blade, but if the aftermarket blades are much thicker, will the adjuster still function properly? Is there a modification I will need to make to the adjuster, or is there an aftermarket 'fix'?<

Ron Hock says that his blades offer no problems, but I've found that my thicker Clifton does.

One way to overcome the difficulty is to locally solder on a tag above and below the yoke aperture to thicken the underside of the cap iron. If you can find a copy, I described this a couple of years ago in Good Woodworking's Issue 180. Laterally adjusting the cap iron is a bit more difficult, but it works.

I recall that somebody described how they did this, with pics, on another forum, but I fear that I can't remember which one

Other people have silver soldered an extension to the tip of the adjuster yoke.

Cap irons need to be matched to the blade thickness, by the way; the important thing being the yoke aperture to cap iron edge distance.

Jeff Gorman

 

[Paul Chapman]

Other people have silver soldered an extension to the tip of the adjuster yoke.

Silver soldering a piece of metal to the end of the 'Y' lever certainly works with older Stanley and Record 'Y' levers, which are made of hard metal. However, some are made of quite soft metal which can melt. In these cases, Woodbloke came up with another idea which he used on a couple of my 'Y' levers.

First he drilled the end of the lever

Then he glued on a piece of metal (also drilled) with industrial super glue and also glued in a piece of steel wire

Here's the finished job

And here it is fitted to my Record #04

It's been very successful and the plane is in regular use.

Here are some pictures of silver soldering a piece on

That's the 'Y' lever from my Record #05, and the modification has also been very successful.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[woodbloke]

Alternatively, a new yoke can be machined from a solid brass billet :shock: Helpful though to know someone handy :wink: with a metal work lathe - Rob

 

[Paul Chapman]

Alternatively, a new yoke can be machined from a solid brass billet :shock:

Do you mean like this?

8) 8) 8) 8)

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[woodbloke]

Paul - probably...if it's bright and shiny it'll be the one (no pics at work ) - Rob

 

[tnimble]

Alternatively, a new yoke can be machined from a solid brass billet :shock: Helpful though to know someone handy :wink: with a metal work lathe - Rob

Somehow I have some trouble how I would machine that on my lathe, probably since its more a milling operation

 

[Paul Chapman]

Paul - probably...if it's bright and shiny it'll be the one - Rob

That's it - the 'Newt Special' 8)

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[woodbloke]

Alternatively, a new yoke can be machined from a solid brass billet :shock: Helpful though to know someone handy :wink: with a metal work lathe - Rob

Somehow I have some trouble how I would machine that on my lathe, probably since its more a milling operation

Pete has a milling attachement on his lathe... - Rob

 

[Skelp]

Alternatively, a new yoke can be machined from a solid brass billet

Do you mean like this?

Paul

Do you sell those yokes, or are they available elsewhere? I'll have three please. :wink:

Ta for all the advice everyone.

 

[Paul Chapman]

are they available elsewhere?

I wish they were.....

I think it's a great pity that no manufacturer offers after-market, longer 'Y' levers. Most hand tool users would agree that, all other things being equal, a thicker blade is better than a thin one. But if you want to fit the thickest of the after-market blades you will invariably come up against the 'Y' lever problem. I think the Hock and several other blades will fit without modifying the 'Y' lever, but the thicker ones, like Clifton, often won't.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[tnimble]

I wish they were.....

I think it's a great pity that no manufacturer offers after-market, longer 'Y' levers. Most hand tool users would agree that, all other things being equal, a thicker blade is better than a thin one. But if you want to fit the thickest of the after-market blades you will invariably come up against the 'Y' lever problem. I think the Hock and several other blades will fit without modifying the 'Y' lever, but the thicker ones, like Clifton, often won't.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

If I had the shop equipped with a mill I would be happy to mill a small badge of them. But I'm still getting the lathe setup (it's on a cabinet now since ths weekend, I'm now fiddling for the EMC software, controllers, amplifiers and servos)

 

[lurker]

I have a model maker mate who modified me one of these - he did a brilliant job. Have yet to use it as I have a Special Number 4 as WIP.

Actually I'm surprised someone like Philly has not spotted a market.

 

[woodbloke]

I think the problem of the solid brass yoke is that it's fiendishly difficult to do. When Pete came round to my 'shop with it and I had a look at it I was pretty gobsmacked and even more so when Pete told be how many hours were needed to make it. I can't recall off hand how many, but I do remember it was a lot :shock: - Rob