Steve Maskery
Established Member
I've often wished that I had incorporated a sliding deadman into the design of my bench. They are an excellent way of supporting panels for edge work, such as shooting a door edge. But I didn't. I've made do with a motley collection of blocks, stacked toolboxes and pieces of scrap for far too long. It's time for something better.
Although this does not slide, I can position it pretty much anywhere I want it along my bench, as I have dog holes every 150mm. The foot support can be in any one of an array of 25mm holes, on roughly 50mm centres, drilled into a front board which is the same height as my bench. It is attached to the bench by a top piece, which houses a peg which fits into any one of my dog-holes along the front.
My vice sits proud of the front edge of my bench. That was deliberate. At the time, I had a few jigs that slid over the vice jaws, in particular a pretty decent router mortising jig. But I have better ways at my disposal nowadays, and I would not install a vice like that again. However, that is what I have, so I have to engineer things so that the front board is flush with the face of the rear jaw.
I started with the front board, 210mm wide and as high as the bench, in my case 900mm. I had a piece of MDF of just the right length so I used that. I don't buy MDF these days, I prefer MRMDF. It's a far superior material for very little extra money, but as I had this to hand it seemed like a good use for it.
I laid out the holes in a diagonal array, four in a line, 50mm vertical separation and drilled them out at 25mm.
Then I eased all the edges with a small roundover bit.
In order to get that front board flush with the rear jaw, I made a spacer to sit between it and the front edge of the bench and glued the two together.
There are two turning jobs to be done on the lathe, a peg to fit the dog-holes, and one to fit the front board. I'm no turner, but even I can manage that. They are a snug fit in the top and the foot, but slightly tapered so that they are easy to install in the bench and front board.
The top is 210 x 100mm and is drilled to take the peg in line with the dog-holes, leaving a mm or so overhang over the front board. After gluing in the peg and and screwing it to the spacer, I could trim it all nice and flush.
Although this does not slide, I can position it pretty much anywhere I want it along my bench, as I have dog holes every 150mm. The foot support can be in any one of an array of 25mm holes, on roughly 50mm centres, drilled into a front board which is the same height as my bench. It is attached to the bench by a top piece, which houses a peg which fits into any one of my dog-holes along the front.
My vice sits proud of the front edge of my bench. That was deliberate. At the time, I had a few jigs that slid over the vice jaws, in particular a pretty decent router mortising jig. But I have better ways at my disposal nowadays, and I would not install a vice like that again. However, that is what I have, so I have to engineer things so that the front board is flush with the face of the rear jaw.
I started with the front board, 210mm wide and as high as the bench, in my case 900mm. I had a piece of MDF of just the right length so I used that. I don't buy MDF these days, I prefer MRMDF. It's a far superior material for very little extra money, but as I had this to hand it seemed like a good use for it.
I laid out the holes in a diagonal array, four in a line, 50mm vertical separation and drilled them out at 25mm.
Then I eased all the edges with a small roundover bit.
In order to get that front board flush with the rear jaw, I made a spacer to sit between it and the front edge of the bench and glued the two together.
There are two turning jobs to be done on the lathe, a peg to fit the dog-holes, and one to fit the front board. I'm no turner, but even I can manage that. They are a snug fit in the top and the foot, but slightly tapered so that they are easy to install in the bench and front board.
The top is 210 x 100mm and is drilled to take the peg in line with the dog-holes, leaving a mm or so overhang over the front board. After gluing in the peg and and screwing it to the spacer, I could trim it all nice and flush.