Achieving 30 or 35 degree long grind on Sorby Pro edge??

[Joe.B14]

Hi all, I’m really hoping someone can help. Does anyone know how you can achieve a 30 or 35 degree bevel angle long grind using the pro edge and long grind jig (middle hole)?

Technically you would need to set a protrusion on the Proset of either 25 or 30 respectively first, as then the second hole on the long grind jig would add the extra 5 degrees, however the Proset only goes to 35 degrees.

I hope this makes sense and any help would be very much appreciated.

Thanks, Joe

 

[Sideways]

The proset is a piece of bent tin. Nothing special.
I've seen people save the money and DIY their own by holding the jig against the edge of their bench and just having a block of wood/plastic or two screwed onto the top as a distance stop for the end of the gouge.
I'd ignore the proset and experiment with different protrusions and holes on the long grind jig. You've chosen the middle hole so start with some protrusion that you think is promising and just increase it by 5mm or 10mm each time you resharpen. You can use a protractor to measure the actual bevel angle when you get something that cuts well for you just so that you can say what it is, but all that matters is that you record the hole/stickout/knuckle setting so that you can recreate the grind you like on your machine.

For what it's worth, when I first got the proedge I searched through all the internet info I could find trying to work out how to replicate an Ellsworth long grind with it. I read the proedge stuff and the tormek stuff as that's where the proedge jigs originated.

I realised in the end that you just can't replicate a factory grind made on one type of jig using another, different, sharpening system. And also, that it doesn't matter as long as you can make something similar that works for you. The real skill is understanding how the grind profile affects what you can do with the tool and developing the skill to use it.

 

[Joe.B14]

The proset is a piece of bent tin. Nothing special.
I've seen people save the money and DIY their own by holding the jig against the edge of their bench and just having a block of wood/plastic or two screwed onto the top as a distance stop for the end of the gouge.
I'd ignore the proset and experiment with different protrusions and holes on the long grind jig. You've chosen the middle hole so start with some protrusion that you think is promising and just increase it by 5mm or 10mm each time you resharpen. You can use a protractor to measure the actual bevel angle when you get something that cuts well for you just so that you can say what it is, but all that matters is that you record the hole/stickout/knuckle setting so that you can recreate the grind you like on your machine.

For what it's worth, when I first got the proedge I searched through all the internet info I could find trying to work out how to replicate an Ellsworth long grind with it. I read the proedge stuff and the tormek stuff as that's where the proedge jigs originated.

I realised in the end that you just can't replicate a factory grind made on one type of jig using another, different, sharpening system. And also, that it doesn't matter as long as you can make something similar that works for you. The real skill is understanding how the grind profile affects what you can do with the tool and developing the skill to use it.

Thank you very much for your reply. Really helpful and give me lots to think about

 

[Stigmorgan]

I don't tend to worry about exact angles, consistency is more important, find what your comfortable with and stick to that.