Abrasive Pads--Rust

[Mikegtr]

Are Scotch-Brite 3M abrasive pads the best make to remove rust? Long lasting? Do you use alternative abrasive pads?

 

[Keith 66]

I have used them for years, Green is coarsest, Red medium & Grey fine, used with parrafin or wd40 great for cleaning up old tools & machinery.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

I use them a lot. After a good wire brush attack.

 

[ChaiLatte]

Mirka Mirlon are also up there with SB.

Your local car bodyshop supplier (filler, paint, thinners, etc.) or its online equivalent is a good place to find a competitive price.

 

[frogesque]

I've shifted some pretty heavy rust (and black mill scale) with an overnight soak in dilute hydrochloric acid (about 10%, get it from builder's merchants as brick cleaner but read the label to make sure) relatively safe to handle but preferably use rubber gloves.

As an aside, if wearing gloves make sure they are good quality, are easy to remove and have a bucket of clean water nearby. Acid inside punctured cheapo thin disposable gloves you can't get off quickly is not good. Neither are punctured flock lined gardening gloves. Propper tools for the right job!

 

[thikone]

Used red one for a while. But then tried rust removing gel and now I prefer it:
RESTORE RUST REMOVER GEL - 250ML 211834
It is not agressive and non-toxic. I can just apply it with paper towel and for small area without any gloves.

 

[Lorenzl]

I have used the Garryflex abrasive blocks in the past.

 

[Sideways]

Yes. SB and Mirlon are better than the cheaper copies, but at a price.
I like them for (e.g.) refinishing a cast iron machine top.

For small, complex parts, electrolytic rust removal using an old laptop power supply is much the best way.

For rust removal on big areas of metal prior to repaint, I'd use an angle grinder with flap wheels (cheap) or Norton Blaze / Vortex discs (the orange, blue and black ones) which are very good. These discs will remove metal as well as rust and paint so use gently.

 

[Fergie 307]

I've shifted some pretty heavy rust (and black mill scale) with an overnight soak in dilute hydrochloric acid (about 10%, get it from builder's merchants as brick cleaner but read the label to make sure) relatively safe to handle but preferably use rubber gloves.

As an aside, if wearing gloves make sure they are good quality, are easy to remove and have a bucket of clean water nearby. Acid inside punctured cheapo thin disposable gloves you can't get off quickly is not good. Neither are punctured flock lined gardening gloves. Propper tools for the right job!

Also use this a lot and would recommend some decent rubber type gauntlets, not expensive and better than getting it on your skin.

 

[BillK]

Strip & clean discs are good but wear fairly quick and chuck powder around. Good for wherever you can get a grinder + disc at, at least. They will take off some metal but not as much as a sanding disc say. Dunking in citric acid in hot water strips rust pretty quickly, also converts millscale to a slime that wipes off. It's cheap and not particularly dangerous too. A plastic tub with a bit of ply or similar over the top keeps it hot and makes it work fast.