AAAARGHHHH!!! - Rust is the devil's invention....

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Hmmm: must have been 'Popular WW' - I get Fine WW and would have read it with interest... Anyone able to summarise the results??
 
Yep it's in Pop Woodworking #140 - I've sent you a PM, but the author tests Camilla Oil, Slipit, TopCote, WD-40, Fluid Film, Boeshield T-9, Gun Blue against an untreated piece of cast iron left outside for a weekend.
Fluid Film seemed to come out best and TopCote and Camilla Oil worst!
Cheers
Gidon
 
This is exactly the sort of reason I love the internet: non 'sales-garbage' info freely available amongst interested individuals. Now all I have to do is work out the UK equivalent of some of these 'proprietary' US mixtures...

(I also love it because this is far less boring than the work I should be doing on this machine at the moment... :D )
 
I have a problem with damp in my workshop due to the 1/2 gap all around the double up and over garage door.

I have an £80 dehumidifier from B+Q, which I run for half a day once per week, and it stops the problem dead - since I bought it, no more rust!

If the weather has been exceptionally damp (wind and drizzle is the worst), I leave it on for a whole day to dry eveything out.
 
Although the camelia oil did not fare well, I still use it and none of the tools on which I have used it are rusty. Their test was a little extreme and only the wettest of workshops would have problems.

The main advantage of camelia oil is that it does not mark wood :wink:
 
Tony - yes the test was a little extreme! I use Liberon lube wax- mainly for creating a slippery surface - and it's meant to prevent rust too.

One point I forgot to mentioned re dehumidifiers: I actually bought mine to keep my wood dry first and foremost. The rust bashing properties are a bonus. I didn't like the idea of buying nice kiln dried wood and slowly bringing it to the conditions (mc) of my then damp workshop!

Cheers

Gidon
 
Shady, do you clean your machines/tools after use? The reason i ask is sawdust left on say a cast iron planer/jointer for a few days will cause it to start rusting.
The sawdust attracts the damp in the air and this in turn sits on the table. As 90% of my machines are cast iron i spend an hour at the end of each day cleaning them all down and applying Liberon Wax.

I agree with gidon get yourself a dehumidifier. My sister has an Ebac (2400e i think) which is first rate and has cured her problem. It is fully automatic, and when you first place it in your workshop you set it to the maximum setting and it runs almost continually for a few days. In this period it sets itself up to the particular room/workshop it is in and depending on how much water is in the air it will reset itself to one of 3 settings. After this it will switch itself on and off automatically, and if you have bought the optional pipe kit you don't need to do anything else, as it will even empty itself when it is full of water.
Hers just runs in the background and all she has to do is to change the filter every now and again.

Regards

Woody
 
I have a garage w/shop with the ½ inch gap similar to others as mentioned in their replies. Its only been set up from last Summer (2003) so I don’t have much experience to go on, but I protected my machinery (planner, thicknesser, sawbench (aluminium), and band saw) with car wax/polish. They did shine quite nicely! I also noticed it was much easier to push the wood over the saw table. And, in spite of managing to get the garage floor completely soaked in water in the middle of last winter, there was not a bit of rust anywhere. I also covered the machines with some of the Axminster machine covers. Now I did not use the workshop much in the winter (about three weekends) so I guess I did not do enough to rub the polish off and one polishing session in October worked last winter. No doubt someone will tell me if using car polish is a dumb idea (if it is then please do, I would hate to think the stuff is really detrimental to the longevity of my saw table). :?:
 
Hi bg,

Welcome to the forum. :D

Using car wax/polish will not harm your machines, the problem is if it rubs off on to your timber, the silicon in them will stop you getting a consistent finish on the timber. :cry: It will seal the timber so the wood finish can't soak in making the finish patchy. :x
 
Gentlemen
Why don’t we try a humidity meter, they are available from B&Q for around £5. I have three of these and if they are put in the same environment, will display the same reading, so calibration should not be a problem. It’s an easy way to test if a dehumidifier is working.
Alan
 
Hi All,
I have a thermometer/humidity gauge from Machine mart-you fit it on an internal wall and run a sensor outside. It gives interior/exterior temperature and also a relative humidity reading. Very useful, I've had mine for a few months and have been charting my "environment", shall we say. In collaboration with my de-humidifier (and new heater for the winter) I am trying to keep my workshop an acceptably dry, warm place to work (and play :lol: )
cheers
Philly :D
 
I have a couple of humidity meters, Maplin did have the best deals on price but that was a little while ago.

The dehumidifier does bring my workshop humidity down quite noticeably and I don't have a problem with rust. 8) I do still use Liberon lube wax on most tools, just to make the wood slide past with less effort :D
 
Thanks for all the interest and replies. Yup, I do wipe off the sawdust...

Humidity meters and de-humidifiers are all good stuff, but I'm slightly concerned with respect to wood movement. My garage is next to the house, and we have windows/doors open whenever possible in both, with 3 boys and 3 dogs zooming in and out all day long. I see myself stopping rust in the garage with a de-humidifier, at the cost of bringing the now 'desert dry' finished furniture into the 'Oxfordshire damp' house, and watching it curl/split bend... Ah well, I think it's simply a 'treat a tool a day' regime for me: it was the L-N large shoulder last night...
 
Shady,

What size dehumidifier are you going to buy to achieve 'desert dry' in the workshop?
Even with my one running most of the time on auto I am not that parched :shock: I would need the coffee on a drip instead of in a cup. :wink:

The main reason for buying the dehumidifier was to stop dried timber taking up the any extra moisture while in the workshop, the effect on the tools is a bonus I am very pleased about. 8)
 
But.... You mean it doesn't do what I thought??? Not interested then: I want to be able to dry out the whole of Oxfordshire or I'm not interested... :wink:

Nah - I'll check it all out.. Thanks folks...
 
Newsflash:

"Police were called to a garage workshop in (an Oxfordshire town) today after the discovery of mummified remains. A police spokesperson said that the forensic pathologist called to the scene was puzzled by what appeared to be sudden and acute preservation, as the corpse was found still clutching a woodworking handplane. The investigation continues."
 
LOL: bet the wretched plane would still have been rusty though :roll:
 
Just got some of those little tins of VCI from axminster to put in the tool box and cupboards dont know if they work or not but i am gonna give them a try.
 
Anobium - let us know: I've looked at them, and wondered. Same for the VCI paper: more expense, but one could wrap tools and put them to bed each night (Jeez - it's worse than the kids...) I got my block planes from Lee Valley wrapped in it, and they were pristine. I've also seen some blurb on a US gun site selling the stuff in 'rolled cardboard tube form' for sticking in gun barrels to minimise rust. Read it out of interest, and it said that the stuff was developed via the US military for weapons storage.

I suppose another alternative would be those plane socks you see sold (only in my case it'd be old hiking socks...) slathered in WD40, lube wax and/or XMP spray. Ditto for some chisel rolls. I may look at that. Cheaper than a dehumidifier, and allows me to keep the RH of the garage at 'house' levels, and the doors/windows open.. Then it's just the machinery. I think the table of my drill press is about 2 mm thicker than when I got it - it has more layers of wax and XMP on it than er...something with fewer layers... :)
 

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