A small side table

[MickCheese]

Hi

I don't have any WIP shots, sorry.

As a lifelong DIYer this is my first real foray into proper hardwood furniture. The size was dictated by the wood I had available which was just odds and ends I had been given.

The table stands 520mm tall, the top is 460mm square.

Made of oak with the rails made of European oak. The inlay in the top is walnut.

The legs are tapered and the rails are morticed into the legs with twin mortices.

You cannot see easily in the photographs but the table top is chamfered under the edge back 50mm so the top is 20mm thick to the rails and 12mm at the edge.

I did have a problem with the finish on the top. The oak kept tearing out, i finished with a cabinet scraper but still a little rough to the touch.

Overall I am pleased with the results.

Please don't be afraid to give comments, this is a learning curve for me and I would like to improve. One thing I do know is I need to get a shoulder plane as making the mortices fit perfectly without one was quite difficult.

Mick

 

[Qwibble]

Very smart, got something similar in mind m'self.

 

[Good Surname or what ?]

Very nice. I like the proportions and it looks well executed. I wish all my work looked as good.

 

[woodbloke]

Nice little table, well proportioned though I'd have made the overhang on the top a bit less. Oak can be a bit of a 'mare if you're unlucky with it...then there's no option but to scrape and sand. Although lots of folks use a shoulder plane for planing shoulders (funnily enough) you don't really need one for that. I always use a big chisel and chop down on the line. Adjusting the thickness of the tenon can be done on a router table (which is what I do) or by hand with a router plane or by using a 'leccy router on the bench, all of which will produce a true tenon.
Tenons can be left straight from the saw as well btw, if you can use it accurately - Rob

 

[MickCheese]

Thank you for your kind comments. When I do my next thing I will try to do some WIP photos.

Nice little table, well proportioned though I'd have made the overhang on the top a bit less. Oak can be a bit of a 'mare if you're unlucky with it...then there's no option but to scrape and sand. Although lots of folks use a shoulder plane for planing shoulders (funnily enough) you don't really need one for that. I always use a big chisel and chop down on the line. Adjusting the thickness of the tenon can be done on a router table (which is what I do) or by hand with a router plane or by using a 'leccy router on the bench, all of which will produce a true tenon.
Tenons can be left straight from the saw as well btw, if you can use it accurately - Rob

Rob

I did fret over the table overhang and too thought it may be a little large. (I mocked it up with cardboard.) Ultimately I thought I can always clip a bit off but putting some back is a little harder.

So I will live with it for now and then decide if I need to shave a little off. The top could do with refinishing so that may be the time to decide. The tearout was not helped by the fact the top is made of 40mm strips stuck together, some of the oak was a little wild. But it was free.

Mick

 

[woodbloke]

But it was free.

Mick

Mick, always a sound plan. I like free too :wink: - Rob

 

[Chems]

One thing I do know is I need to get a shoulder plane as making the mortices fit perfectly without one was quite difficult.

Mick

Thats a lovely table, be very proud.

I would buy a small shoulder plane, I bought a large one many moons ago and although it was excellent, I found my size of work never lent itself to the big 073 plane. A small one would be perfect for most situations. A rebate block plane would also do and can be useful for other tasks.

 

[MickCheese]

The shoulder plane I had my eye on was the Clifton 42 but Rob has now got me thinking that I could use my router table and just kiss the shoulder of a tenon and do the same job.

Problem is very noisy and very dusty, I am trying to get away from things that need to be plugged in.

Mick

 

[Chems]

Yeah you can do it with a router, but you really need table and a sliding table/mitre gauge to do it well, and its hard with smaller pieces.

I'm surprised actually that rob is advocating that, hes such a handtool guy!

 

[OPJ]

For a first attempt, that looks excellent, to me.

I agree with Chems when he says 'don't buy a large shoulder plane'. Rather than getting a small one though, I do think you'd be better off looking for a medium sized plane. You may find that a small plane will only trim half the width of a tenon cheek, where a medium plane would do it in a single pass. Also, as you come to discover what else a shoulder plane can be used for, I'm sure you'll find the extra capacities are well worth having.

 

[Chems]

Olly did a really good review on the Quasheng (sp?) Rebate plane, and it looked really good for the money. That would do your shoulders and also be a good block plane when you need it. Its on his blog here:

http://ollypj.wordpress.com/2010/02/09/ ... y-verdict/


A rebate block is on my list of to buys.

 

[Shane]

I like it, overhang looks good IMO

Good work fella 8)

 

[MickCheese]

Olly did a really good review on the Quasheng (sp?) Rebate plane, and it looked really good for the money. That would do your shoulders and also be a good block plane when you need it. Its on his blog here:

http://ollypj.wordpress.com/2010/02/09/ ... y-verdict/


A rebate block is on my list of to buys.

I did see Olly's review. I already have a Quangsheng block so the rebate could keep it company. I tried using my small bull nose rebate plane but the short nose meant I couldn't locate the beginning of the cut easily.

I like new shiny things so may go for the rebate block then the shoulder. My wife did walk into my workshop the other day and ask why I needed so many planes that look the same. I just looked to the ceiling and told her they all have a different use. She just tutted and walked out. After all she has dozens of pairs of shoes and they actually all do the same thing. :wink:

Mick

 

[devonwoody]

I like it as well, if it was me I would have gone down the nest of table route, but I do have a problem myself with fads these days.

 

[woodbloke]

Yeah you can do it with a router, but you really need table and a sliding table/mitre gauge to do it well, and its hard with smaller pieces.

I'm surprised actually that rob is advocating that, hes such a handtool guy!

No, no, no, no...don't use a router to square the shoulders, unless you can do it super accurately in a router table. Use a router on the bench to clean up the faces of the tennons. Simply use an offcut the same thickness and cramp around 100mm away from the job, with the offending tennon in the middle. The two bits of wood (offcut and job) will then form a flat base on which to rest the router and trimming the tennon then becomes dead easy. You can do exactly the same thing with a un-'leccified router (071?) - Rob

 

[Shultzy]

Lovely table Mike, very clean lines. I've been asked to make a similar table but with a shelf at the bottom and a drawer at the top.
Can I ask, how much is the overhang, what size legs and what depth are the rails. This will help to see if my proportions are right.

 

[MickCheese]

Lovely table Mike, very clean lines. I've been asked to make a similar table but with a shelf at the bottom and a drawer at the top.
Can I ask, how much is the overhang, what size legs and what depth are the rails. This will help to see if my proportions are right.

The legs are 500mm long 40X40 tapering to 22.5X22.5
The rails are 70mm deep
The overhang is 57mm but I am still not too sure if it is a little too big? The top is 20mm thick tapering to 12mm at the edge the taper going back 50mm from the edge. I did the taper on my table saw but wouldn't do it again without a tall false fence as it was very difficult to stop it tipping.

Thanks you all for the very nice comments, the main thing is my wife likes it and I am proud of it

I have been contemplating for a long time a hall table with drawers so maybe I will try that next.

Mick

 

[MickCheese]

Yeah you can do it with a router, but you really need table and a sliding table/mitre gauge to do it well, and its hard with smaller pieces.

I'm surprised actually that rob is advocating that, hes such a handtool guy!

No, no, no, no...don't use a router to square the shoulders, unless you can do it super accurately in a router table. Use a router on the bench to clean up the faces of the tennons. Simply use an offcut the same thickness and cramp around 100mm away from the job, with the offending tennon in the middle. The two bits of wood (offcut and job) will then form a flat base on which to rest the router and trimming the tennon then becomes dead easy. You can do exactly the same thing with a un-'leccified router (071?) - Rob

Ah, I get it now. Will give it a go. But the problem I had was the shoulders needed a smidge taken off so that is where I thought a shoulder plane would be useful. But as you said before a well aimed and sharp chisel would do the job, I did try that but found it very difficult to wield.

Mick

 

[CNC Paul]

Mike,


That's a really nice table...Well executed


How thick is the inlay ?

 

[MickCheese]

Mike,


That's a really nice table...Well executed


How thick is the inlay ?

Thanks Paul

The inlay is 6mm X 6mm mitred at the corners.

Mick